Serpent 710
Originally posted by alucard13
I will try it out. Thanx for the info
I will try it out. Thanx for the info
950R question
Since I cannot find a thread for the 950R I will ask my question here. Do you lean the steering servo lever one tooth forward like you do on the 710? I think you do but I would like some comfirmation. If someone has any info on the lenght of the link, that would be helpful also.
Thanks,
jag
Thanks,
jag
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
Re: 950R question
Originally posted by jag
Since I cannot find a thread for the 950R I will ask my question here. Do you lean the steering servo lever one tooth forward like you do on the 710? I think you do but I would like some comfirmation. If someone has any info on the lenght of the link, that would be helpful also.
Thanks,
jag
Since I cannot find a thread for the 950R I will ask my question here. Do you lean the steering servo lever one tooth forward like you do on the 710? I think you do but I would like some comfirmation. If someone has any info on the lenght of the link, that would be helpful also.
Thanks,
jag
Re: Re: 950R question
Originally posted by revzalot
You don't have to. I made mine upright and adjusted the turnbuckle to center the wheels.
You don't have to. I made mine upright and adjusted the turnbuckle to center the wheels.
Re: Re: Re: 950R question
Originally posted by jag
I take it your servo saver points straight up the center of the car? Do you get equal steering throw in both directions?
I take it your servo saver points straight up the center of the car? Do you get equal steering throw in both directions?
More questions
Sorry guys but I have more questions about the engine. I finally got the flywheel and shaft to co operate with each other (thanx jag).
But I am totally confused about the clutch gap and end play. I know this is probably a difficult question to answer and can only really be determined once you get to the track but can anyone tell me a somewhat neutral setting? Like how many shims to put next to the thrustbearing and what bearings/shims do i put next to the flywheel nut? Example, i see in the manual (step 8.7) that it wants you to put 1 M11 and two U4's (and i dont know what the thing in between the U4's are called) by the flywheel nut? Is this standard and you tweak from their. Or is this only for other things. and in step 8.6 to put 2 shims. are these only for picture purposes or would these be the neutral settings?
Sorry to be such a P.I.T.A guys but I want to get this right as much as I can. I have an RRL3 If that makes any difference.
But I am totally confused about the clutch gap and end play. I know this is probably a difficult question to answer and can only really be determined once you get to the track but can anyone tell me a somewhat neutral setting? Like how many shims to put next to the thrustbearing and what bearings/shims do i put next to the flywheel nut? Example, i see in the manual (step 8.7) that it wants you to put 1 M11 and two U4's (and i dont know what the thing in between the U4's are called) by the flywheel nut? Is this standard and you tweak from their. Or is this only for other things. and in step 8.6 to put 2 shims. are these only for picture purposes or would these be the neutral settings?
Sorry to be such a P.I.T.A guys but I want to get this right as much as I can. I have an RRL3 If that makes any difference.
Re: More questions
Originally posted by alucard13
Sorry guys but I have more questions about the engine. I finally got the flywheel and shaft to co operate with each other (thanx jag).
But I am totally confused about the clutch gap and end play. I know this is probably a difficult question to answer and can only really be determined once you get to the track but can anyone tell me a somewhat neutral setting? Like how many shims to put next to the thrustbearing and what bearings/shims do i put next to the flywheel nut? Example, i see in the manual (step 8.7) that it wants you to put 1 M11 and two U4's (and i dont know what the thing in between the U4's are called) by the flywheel nut? Is this standard and you tweak from their. Or is this only for other things. and in step 8.6 to put 2 shims. are these only for picture purposes or would these be the neutral settings?
Sorry to be such a P.I.T.A guys but I want to get this right as much as I can. I have an RRL3 If that makes any difference.
Sorry guys but I have more questions about the engine. I finally got the flywheel and shaft to co operate with each other (thanx jag).
But I am totally confused about the clutch gap and end play. I know this is probably a difficult question to answer and can only really be determined once you get to the track but can anyone tell me a somewhat neutral setting? Like how many shims to put next to the thrustbearing and what bearings/shims do i put next to the flywheel nut? Example, i see in the manual (step 8.7) that it wants you to put 1 M11 and two U4's (and i dont know what the thing in between the U4's are called) by the flywheel nut? Is this standard and you tweak from their. Or is this only for other things. and in step 8.6 to put 2 shims. are these only for picture purposes or would these be the neutral settings?
Sorry to be such a P.I.T.A guys but I want to get this right as much as I can. I have an RRL3 If that makes any difference.
Re: More questions
Originally posted by alucard13
Sorry to be such a P.I.T.A guys but I want to get this right as much as I can. I have an RRL3 If that makes any difference.
Sorry to be such a P.I.T.A guys but I want to get this right as much as I can. I have an RRL3 If that makes any difference.
Hope you also read the ball diff article by Julius.
Re: Re: More questions
Originally posted by jag
The best instructions I have found on clutch setup are by Glenn C. on mytsn. Go to mytsn.com and under columns (I think) you will find an article on "building the perfect centax III clutch" and there is another one, I can't remember the name. Read those and follow his directions and you will be in good shape. It's not hard... it just takes a little time.
The best instructions I have found on clutch setup are by Glenn C. on mytsn. Go to mytsn.com and under columns (I think) you will find an article on "building the perfect centax III clutch" and there is another one, I can't remember the name. Read those and follow his directions and you will be in good shape. It's not hard... it just takes a little time.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Engine
Originally posted by alucard13
Is thier a special tool to tighten the clutch nut? When I get to a certain point i cant tighten since the shaft wants to turn. I do want to use pliers and mess up the shaft.
Is thier a special tool to tighten the clutch nut? When I get to a certain point i cant tighten since the shaft wants to turn. I do want to use pliers and mess up the shaft.
With the flywheel holder, you also need a wrench to tighten down the 10 mm clutch nut. For this, you could get the Hudy one which also acts as a wrench glowplug and also the other side acts as a 10 mm allen to tighten the aluminum pivot ball retainers in the knuckles. One of the more useful tools in the toolbox for me.
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Engine
Originally posted by InitialD
With the flywheel holder, you also need a wrench to tighten down the 10 mm clutch nut. For this, you could get the Hudy one which also acts as a wrench glowplug and also the other side acts as a 10 mm allen to tighten the aluminum pivot ball retainers in the knuckles. One of the more useful tools in the toolbox for me.
With the flywheel holder, you also need a wrench to tighten down the 10 mm clutch nut. For this, you could get the Hudy one which also acts as a wrench glowplug and also the other side acts as a 10 mm allen to tighten the aluminum pivot ball retainers in the knuckles. One of the more useful tools in the toolbox for me.
Hey guys, its been a year and half since I sold my 710 and was wondering if there has been any improvements or upgrades since then to the car? I currently don't have a 1/10 and am looking into getting another and keeping all my options open, thanks.... Nice to see your still around IntialD
My personal opinion is that the 710 is still the best car out there. The car was definately made better with the introduction of the two-part diff collar and the thicker rear anti roll bars. Also the longer servo saver gives another tuning option.
Best of all, take a look at this article, you'll see basically all the new parts which have been introduced since the 710 was launched Per-Ola Hard's 2005 710
I think the 710s performance will be as good this year as it was last....if not better now that we know our cars better
Cheers, Mark.
Best of all, take a look at this article, you'll see basically all the new parts which have been introduced since the 710 was launched Per-Ola Hard's 2005 710
I think the 710s performance will be as good this year as it was last....if not better now that we know our cars better
Cheers, Mark.
Hi SupermaxxRich, yes I'm still around. Good that you're trying to pick up the hobby again.
Anyway, yes... There are some bits of improvement that they bundled in the 710 kit if you get a new one.
To have some idea, look at the article by Serpent team drive Per-Ola.
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=10965
Well, he did add some optional parts and hop ups but the basic thing is there.
Anyway, yes... There are some bits of improvement that they bundled in the 710 kit if you get a new one.
To have some idea, look at the article by Serpent team drive Per-Ola.
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=10965
Well, he did add some optional parts and hop ups but the basic thing is there.
Ooophs, Mark's RING is more powerful...