Serpent 710
#1966
Originally posted by GoldFinger
One more thing, the car weight is 1670 with personal transponder.
One more thing, the car weight is 1670 with personal transponder.
#1967
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Back View
Back View
I noticed from the rear that you used the shorter upper arm and the highest roll center. How is it different from the stock longer upper arm and roll center setting?
What shore GQ tires did you use?
#1968
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Im showing what the chassis is made for...
Im showing what the chassis is made for...
#1969
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by InitialD
Thanks for the pics Goldfinger !
I noticed from the rear that you used the shorter upper arm and the highest roll center. How is it different from the stock longer upper arm and roll center setting?
What shore GQ tires did you use?
Thanks for the pics Goldfinger !
I noticed from the rear that you used the shorter upper arm and the highest roll center. How is it different from the stock longer upper arm and roll center setting?
What shore GQ tires did you use?
As for the GQ shores, I use 40 FR and RR all the way from the start of heat (10.00) till A Final (15.30). This is why I said this car is well balanced and dont forget to check the tire wear (in my picture). I was miscalculated the ride height. After final the ride height is still more than 4.5 mm, damn!!
1670 gr is race ready condition without fuel.
#1970
Originally posted by InitialD
I think that is not possible with the suggested link length of 44.5 mm. What length are you using?
I think that is not possible with the suggested link length of 44.5 mm. What length are you using?
The arm needs to be at 90 degrees to the servo not the link. That is the optimum setting to get left/right as close as possible. I'll go back and edit my previous posts.
You may need a shorter link than what is in the manual. If nescessary cut the ball ends and the link a little. Or you could see if you have a 705 rear sway bar link around. They were made with a m3 threaded rod that may provide a way to a short steering link.
Last edited by Julius; 12-22-2003 at 02:09 AM.
#1971
Tech Elite
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Originally posted by GoldFinger
Scrubbed DRS arm
Scrubbed DRS arm
what exactly happened with the arm..(its a little hard to tell)..did it break,bend?...
how hard was that hit?......That arm was one of my concerns...Esp. when used on USA med tracks with boards...
#1972
Tech Regular
whaowhoahw!!! first time playing my 705 without breaking anything..... ran about 6 tanks!! YEAAAAAAAAAAA!!!
I took out the front sway bar.. the car turns MUCH better!! I am also using big fat lola style front bumper... I think it gives the arms/shocks/tires much more protection!!
Yea!! I'll go back to the track tomorrow!!FInaly a day of real fun!!
A quick question though... I my is sliding a bit at the rear... If I don't not want to change tire shore (40/40) and do not want to change spring (Red front/yellow rear) is there anything I can do to make the rear bit onto the track a bit better?
Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I took out the front sway bar.. the car turns MUCH better!! I am also using big fat lola style front bumper... I think it gives the arms/shocks/tires much more protection!!
Yea!! I'll go back to the track tomorrow!!FInaly a day of real fun!!
A quick question though... I my is sliding a bit at the rear... If I don't not want to change tire shore (40/40) and do not want to change spring (Red front/yellow rear) is there anything I can do to make the rear bit onto the track a bit better?
Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#1973
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by fastharry
what exactly happened with the arm..(its a little hard to tell)..did it break,bend?...
how hard was that hit?......That arm was one of my concerns...Esp. when used on USA med tracks with boards...
what exactly happened with the arm..(its a little hard to tell)..did it break,bend?...
how hard was that hit?......That arm was one of my concerns...Esp. when used on USA med tracks with boards...
Truly, my point is the 2nd spur gear...
In my opinion, dont use stock aluminium pillow ball for rear joint. The old steel one will holds your rear hub better coz it has longer thread.
I think our concrete wall that surrounding track (only half meter away from asphalt) is more solid than your boards ...
Can you believe if it still break apart ?? We have to repair the 4" tall wall in some corner twice this year.
#1974
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by lawndoggie
A quick question though... I my is sliding a bit at the rear... If I don't not want to change tire shore (40/40) and do not want to change spring (Red front/yellow rear) is there anything I can do to make the rear bit onto the track a bit better?
Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
A quick question though... I my is sliding a bit at the rear... If I don't not want to change tire shore (40/40) and do not want to change spring (Red front/yellow rear) is there anything I can do to make the rear bit onto the track a bit better?
Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#1975
more rear toe in
#1976
Balance out the ride height and maybe increase number of holes in the rear shocks (?).
#1978
Originally posted by lawndoggie
whaowhoahw!!! first time playing my 705 without breaking anything..... ran about 6 tanks!! YEAAAAAAAAAAA!!!
I took out the front sway bar.. the car turns MUCH better!! I am also using big fat lola style front bumper... I think it gives the arms/shocks/tires much more protection!!
Yea!! I'll go back to the track tomorrow!!FInaly a day of real fun!!
A quick question though... I my is sliding a bit at the rear... If I don't not want to change tire shore (40/40) and do not want to change spring (Red front/yellow rear) is there anything I can do to make the rear bit onto the track a bit better?
Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
whaowhoahw!!! first time playing my 705 without breaking anything..... ran about 6 tanks!! YEAAAAAAAAAAA!!!
I took out the front sway bar.. the car turns MUCH better!! I am also using big fat lola style front bumper... I think it gives the arms/shocks/tires much more protection!!
Yea!! I'll go back to the track tomorrow!!FInaly a day of real fun!!
A quick question though... I my is sliding a bit at the rear... If I don't not want to change tire shore (40/40) and do not want to change spring (Red front/yellow rear) is there anything I can do to make the rear bit onto the track a bit better?
Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#1979
Originally posted by GoldFinger
You should not worry about the arm, it just scrubbed a bit nothing else happen.
Truly, my point is the 2nd spur gear...
In my opinion, dont use stock aluminium pillow ball for rear joint. The old steel one will holds your rear hub better coz it has longer thread.
You should not worry about the arm, it just scrubbed a bit nothing else happen.
Truly, my point is the 2nd spur gear...
In my opinion, dont use stock aluminium pillow ball for rear joint. The old steel one will holds your rear hub better coz it has longer thread.
Why use the steel balls? Did you rip out a thread?
#1980
Tech Regular
Originally posted by Julius
I agree with goldfinger. Release the rear bar as well. If that makes the rear grip too much, use less rear toe-in.
I agree with goldfinger. Release the rear bar as well. If that makes the rear grip too much, use less rear toe-in.
That was a HUGE improvement I made on my driving skills yesterday, if I contine improving with this pace, maybe I'll get the 710 in 3 months