Originally posted by Eddie
I am concidering running a 710 for next season , right now I have a fac team NTC3 its OK but needs alot of attention to keep it in top form .,IS there any common issues with the 710 ? Any parts prone to breakage , the aluminum pillow balls concern me since the steel AE ones seem to bend easily , how good is parts availability and customer support in the USA , does it require any upgrades for relaibility or performance ? Sorry for all the questions but want to make the right choice since I am going to commit to some bigger events for next year .
For keeping it in top shape, just maintain the Centax clutch bearings and the thrust bearing. Other than that, the wheel bearings which should not be a problem for you seeing that NTC3 bearings break more often than the bigger ones on the 710.
The diffs? When you greased the balls well (Mugen Super Grease), they last very long and smooth. I have not needed to clean and service the diffs for a pretty long time already and they still function the same. They belts and pulleys also last very long. I would say much longer than some other cars out there. The Serpent pulleys and belts on the 710 are second to none.
The aluminum pivot balls are tough. I've not bend one yet after over a year of playing.
Parts availability? Where are you at? Does your track have a hobby shop that carry Serpent parts? You could always mail order if you choose that route. Else, contact www.serpentusa.com
for more info.
If you get a new 710 kit, they should already come with all the necessary updates from the manufacturing changes made to the car like harder front and lower bumper, black flywheel, rear ball diff adjuster and clutch tools included.
As for other updates, you may want to get the thicker rear shock tower that should come with the same part number as a spare, the lower rear arms (longer at the edges where the pivot balls thread in to get better holding) and lastly the yellow Centax clutch shoe.
As Julius mentioned, the best upgrades for the 710 are the rear thicker sway bars (2.5 and 3 mm) and the new longer servo saver. You may want to get the harder red springs (stock is softer yellow) for the car if the track permits. If your track is tight, you may want to go with the lock pin set to lock the front oneway bearing of the car or get a front adjustable ball diff.
From then on, you may want to add some hop ups slowly like the engine monoblock, the aluminum radio support brace, aluminum shock bodies, the aluminum mid bearing block, lightened mid bearing shaft, aluminum front sway bar holder etc.
But mostly, the car works superb in stock form.