Serpent 710
#1756
Tech Regular
Re: Got it!
Originally posted by pineapplet
Well, after racing my trusty 'ol impulse pro for nearly two years , i just collected my 710 a few days ago... (and my impulse was indeed trusty... took lots of development time but the car was almost race-failure-free.. only driver errors limited its success...)
Unfortunately, i have to learn not to fix it cars at odd hours in the morning... Even before its hit the track i've managed to break stuff! .. First, it was the G-clip holding in the rear diff's thrust bearing... I accidently assembled it without the 4mm screw in place, and when i clumsily removed the clip to amend that, i snapped one of its ears clean off!! Now i gotta go hunt around for this weird piece of fastening hardware.. my LHS says he'll have to disassemble an old impulse/705 diff for a replacement clip but i'd rather go out to look for a new one.
Then last nite (or rather, this morning), i'm happily pre-threading the shock rod-ends and accidentally screw in too far, splitting the rod-end in half... Bleah! Luckily, unlike most other stuff on the car, the shock parts are interchangeable with other serpent cars...
I don't consider myself a complete klutz .. but amongst the cars i've wrenched on (mostly 1/8 buggies, the incredibly well-engineered x-ray, etc), the serpent remains the most challenging to build correctly. The next time i sit down to finish up the car, i'm gonna get a nice cup of coffee first...
Btw, is anyone having problems with the rear susp holder inserts? Do you have to file the holes of the inserts in order to get a smooth susp behind? I filed out the front holes and it feels nice there...
Anyone got building tips to spare? I found the rx positioning tip really useful!
Well, after racing my trusty 'ol impulse pro for nearly two years , i just collected my 710 a few days ago... (and my impulse was indeed trusty... took lots of development time but the car was almost race-failure-free.. only driver errors limited its success...)
Unfortunately, i have to learn not to fix it cars at odd hours in the morning... Even before its hit the track i've managed to break stuff! .. First, it was the G-clip holding in the rear diff's thrust bearing... I accidently assembled it without the 4mm screw in place, and when i clumsily removed the clip to amend that, i snapped one of its ears clean off!! Now i gotta go hunt around for this weird piece of fastening hardware.. my LHS says he'll have to disassemble an old impulse/705 diff for a replacement clip but i'd rather go out to look for a new one.
Then last nite (or rather, this morning), i'm happily pre-threading the shock rod-ends and accidentally screw in too far, splitting the rod-end in half... Bleah! Luckily, unlike most other stuff on the car, the shock parts are interchangeable with other serpent cars...
I don't consider myself a complete klutz .. but amongst the cars i've wrenched on (mostly 1/8 buggies, the incredibly well-engineered x-ray, etc), the serpent remains the most challenging to build correctly. The next time i sit down to finish up the car, i'm gonna get a nice cup of coffee first...
Btw, is anyone having problems with the rear susp holder inserts? Do you have to file the holes of the inserts in order to get a smooth susp behind? I filed out the front holes and it feels nice there...
Anyone got building tips to spare? I found the rx positioning tip really useful!
I've done it so oftern that now everyone call me Lawnfiler... in fact, you can send me your 710, and I can file them for you...
#1757
Originally posted by GoldFinger
You will defenetly dissapointed...
I'll start to build last night and bang!! done.. in 5 hours only!!
(minus electronic and shocks)
You wont believe that I did not touch my "luxurius diamond file" and "ultimate dremel weapon" or hair dryer to build this snake.
Part fit is awesome, "play" is already there, well done from tooling job.
Its like building "stiffener car" coz, the design is stiffener over stiffener. Looks very solid but still lighter than 705 I guess.
Tips
- use 1 step tighter from manual for rear belt tension
- tighten both side stiffener first than X bracket and top deck.
coz the stiffener design is flush with chassis and top deck
Dislike:
- To mount engine, must take off the right-side stiffener
- Rear lower hinge pin had to cut, so if "hardcore guy" slam from the back, it did not locks the nylon trackrod movement.
- Chasis should be milled a bit,right bellow the front belt to make enough clearance so the belt does not scrub the chasis
Likes:
- too much too mention
We should gave credit to the snake team this time.
Cant wait till friday when my 710 hit the road for the 1st time.
You will defenetly dissapointed...
I'll start to build last night and bang!! done.. in 5 hours only!!
(minus electronic and shocks)
You wont believe that I did not touch my "luxurius diamond file" and "ultimate dremel weapon" or hair dryer to build this snake.
Part fit is awesome, "play" is already there, well done from tooling job.
Its like building "stiffener car" coz, the design is stiffener over stiffener. Looks very solid but still lighter than 705 I guess.
Tips
- use 1 step tighter from manual for rear belt tension
- tighten both side stiffener first than X bracket and top deck.
coz the stiffener design is flush with chassis and top deck
Dislike:
- To mount engine, must take off the right-side stiffener
- Rear lower hinge pin had to cut, so if "hardcore guy" slam from the back, it did not locks the nylon trackrod movement.
- Chasis should be milled a bit,right bellow the front belt to make enough clearance so the belt does not scrub the chasis
Likes:
- too much too mention
We should gave credit to the snake team this time.
Cant wait till friday when my 710 hit the road for the 1st time.
I couldn't get the front susp to be 'loose' without some filing. ('loose' as in when i hold up the hub, it will drop by itself without needing the slightest push).
#1758
Re: Re: Got it!
Originally posted by lawndoggie
filing holes?? yea been there, done that with my 705.......
I've done it so oftern that now everyone call me Lawnfiler... in fact, you can send me your 710, and I can file them for you...
filing holes?? yea been there, done that with my 705.......
I've done it so oftern that now everyone call me Lawnfiler... in fact, you can send me your 710, and I can file them for you...
Last nite, i also found myself chucking the shock shafts with the pistons attached on the dremel... for quick 2 second spins on fine sandpaper...
#1759
Originally posted by lawndoggie
Did I say it comes with the AE 86 pearl white body with sand blasted black trim??
Did I say it comes with the AE 86 pearl white body with sand blasted black trim??
#1760
Re: Re: Re: Got it!
Originally posted by pineapplet
Last nite, i also found myself chucking the shock shafts with the pistons attached on the dremel... for quick 2 second spins on fine sandpaper...
Last nite, i also found myself chucking the shock shafts with the pistons attached on the dremel... for quick 2 second spins on fine sandpaper...
#1761
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
Originally posted by Data
easy, just say it belongs to your friend, like the novamax you had shown us before. i did it last time and it worked.
easy, just say it belongs to your friend, like the novamax you had shown us before. i did it last time and it worked.
InitialD has been hypnotised by the LHS to buy the 710. The LHS is watching you INITIALD!!!, once taken no return allowed. Then sell me your 705 really cheap
Last edited by spawn; 12-16-2003 at 11:38 PM.
#1762
Re: Re: Re: Re: Got it!
Originally posted by InitialD
Old habits die hard !
Old habits die hard !
#1763
Originally posted by spawn
InitialD has been hypnotised by the LHS to buy the 710. The LHS is watching you INITIALD!!!, once taken no return allowed. Then sell my your 705 really cheap
InitialD has been hypnotised by the LHS to buy the 710. The LHS is watching you INITIALD!!!, once taken no return allowed. Then sell my your 705 really cheap
#1764
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Got it!
Originally posted by pineapplet
i also put goops of AE green slime all over the shock o-rings before sealing them up...
i also put goops of AE green slime all over the shock o-rings before sealing them up...
#1765
Guest
I was talking to Serpent USA today 12-16 and the 710 are in and shipping. I should be getting mine tommorow or Thursday the Latest. I cant wait.
#1766
Originally posted by GoldFinger
You will defenetly dissapointed...
I'll start to build last night and bang!! done.. in 5 hours only!!
(minus electronic and shocks)
You wont believe that I did not touch my "luxurius diamond file" and "ultimate dremel weapon" or hair dryer to build this snake.
Part fit is awesome, "play" is already there, well done from tooling job.
Its like building "stiffener car" coz, the design is stiffener over stiffener. Looks very solid but still lighter than 705 I guess.
Tips
- use 1 step tighter from manual for rear belt tension
- tighten both side stiffener first than X bracket and top deck.
coz the stiffener design is flush with chassis and top deck
Dislike:
- To mount engine, must take off the right-side stiffener
- Rear lower hinge pin had to cut, so if "hardcore guy" slam from the back, it did not locks the nylon trackrod movement.
- Chasis should be milled a bit,right bellow the front belt to make enough clearance so the belt does not scrub the chasis
Likes:
- too much too mention
We should gave credit to the snake team this time.
Cant wait till friday when my 710 hit the road for the 1st time.
You will defenetly dissapointed...
I'll start to build last night and bang!! done.. in 5 hours only!!
(minus electronic and shocks)
You wont believe that I did not touch my "luxurius diamond file" and "ultimate dremel weapon" or hair dryer to build this snake.
Part fit is awesome, "play" is already there, well done from tooling job.
Its like building "stiffener car" coz, the design is stiffener over stiffener. Looks very solid but still lighter than 705 I guess.
Tips
- use 1 step tighter from manual for rear belt tension
- tighten both side stiffener first than X bracket and top deck.
coz the stiffener design is flush with chassis and top deck
Dislike:
- To mount engine, must take off the right-side stiffener
- Rear lower hinge pin had to cut, so if "hardcore guy" slam from the back, it did not locks the nylon trackrod movement.
- Chasis should be milled a bit,right bellow the front belt to make enough clearance so the belt does not scrub the chasis
Likes:
- too much too mention
We should gave credit to the snake team this time.
Cant wait till friday when my 710 hit the road for the 1st time.
I think to build in 5 hours a serpent race car is a record J.
About your nice Tips :
I was driving with the belt tension like in the manual for more than 20 hour without any problems. But it’s not bad thing to tighten it a little.
The second tip is a nice pne.
About the thinks you don’t like :
It’s not true that you must take off a stiffener to get the engine out or in the car. In begin it’s easy to push the brake-disk to the right side until the flywheel has passed. After a few tries it’s no problem any more.
About the hinge pin’s: You can do it like you did, but than you can not get it out that easy when you want to change the roll centre. So one good and one bad thing.
You don’t must wait until Friday take a day of.
Rene
#1767
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by pineapplet
How did you get away without any filing and 'hand-fitting'???
I couldn't get the front susp to be 'loose' without some filing. ('loose' as in when i hold up the hub, it will drop by itself without needing the slightest push).
How did you get away without any filing and 'hand-fitting'???
I couldn't get the front susp to be 'loose' without some filing. ('loose' as in when i hold up the hub, it will drop by itself without needing the slightest push).
- 808340 Ball-cup for pivot ball 8.5mm
808344 Adjusting nut M10, using CA glue this part together.
You will get tight joint and still manage free suspension.
Instead abobe parts :
IN FRONT
- Should be no problem since both arm(lowr and upper) is hold by 1 piece part. If still, loosen every screw by half turn. Tighten the all the screw that will make "bulkhead assy" in 1 piece. Then tighten the lower 2 screw that holds "bulkhead" on chasis.
- Remove caster clip and check arm moving.
IN REAR
- I was tempting to use my "luxurius file", the problem in the insert. Clean all the flash in the insert even a little flash, especially in the back end (where you going to put inside back plate or front mount) Coz if still in there, it wll reducing the arm "play".
- Loose and tighten the screw like in the front. But this time dont
tighten lower(on chassis) then. Install and tighten the top carbon (brake and stab. holder) mount. This carbon is playing a major role of the rear assembly. After that tighten the screw on chasis.
If the problem is still persist just send it to "D" Master Builder.
Hope this help.
#1768
Originally posted by GoldFinger
If the problem is still persist just send it to "D" Master Builder.
If the problem is still persist just send it to "D" Master Builder.
Thanks again. The assembly feedbacks are all valueable. Now you've gotten me closer to the dark side !!
#1769
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Tip:
- 808340 Ball-cup for pivot ball 8.5mm
808344 Adjusting nut M10, using CA glue this part together.
You will get tight joint and still manage free suspension.
Instead abobe parts :
IN FRONT
- Should be no problem since both arm(lowr and upper) is hold by 1 piece part. If still, loosen every screw by half turn. Tighten the all the screw that will make "bulkhead assy" in 1 piece. Then tighten the lower 2 screw that holds "bulkhead" on chasis.
- Remove caster clip and check arm moving.
IN REAR
- I was tempting to use my "luxurius file", the problem in the insert. Clean all the flash in the insert even a little flash, especially in the back end (where you going to put inside back plate or front mount) Coz if still in there, it wll reducing the arm "play".
- Loose and tighten the screw like in the front. But this time dont
tighten lower(on chassis) then. Install and tighten the top carbon (brake and stab. holder) mount. This carbon is playing a major role of the rear assembly. After that tighten the screw on chasis.
If the problem is still persist just send it to "D" Master Builder.
Hope this help.
Tip:
- 808340 Ball-cup for pivot ball 8.5mm
808344 Adjusting nut M10, using CA glue this part together.
You will get tight joint and still manage free suspension.
Instead abobe parts :
IN FRONT
- Should be no problem since both arm(lowr and upper) is hold by 1 piece part. If still, loosen every screw by half turn. Tighten the all the screw that will make "bulkhead assy" in 1 piece. Then tighten the lower 2 screw that holds "bulkhead" on chasis.
- Remove caster clip and check arm moving.
IN REAR
- I was tempting to use my "luxurius file", the problem in the insert. Clean all the flash in the insert even a little flash, especially in the back end (where you going to put inside back plate or front mount) Coz if still in there, it wll reducing the arm "play".
- Loose and tighten the screw like in the front. But this time dont
tighten lower(on chassis) then. Install and tighten the top carbon (brake and stab. holder) mount. This carbon is playing a major role of the rear assembly. After that tighten the screw on chasis.
If the problem is still persist just send it to "D" Master Builder.
Hope this help.
Thnks!
(initialD - i sure hope you don't drive like i do though! that would be highly unrecommended! )
#1770
Originally posted by GoldFinger
- I was tempting to use my "luxurius file",
- I was tempting to use my "luxurius file",