Conrod in D5 interchangeable with the s5 or s3??
11-22-2003, 03:54 PM
#91
ok Have been able to get it to run starting with your settings but temp was 270 according to my venom on board temp sensor. I think it reads a bit High though temp is coming from just under the head at the top of the crankcase. If i richen it it bogs out. I tried the shorter tubing 125 mm and 175 mm the 250mm seems to work best The shorter the tube the faster it dies at idle. Can't get it to Idle without the Plug ignitor with the shorter tubing. I've gone both rich and lean from the baseline settings. Tried playing with it again and Now it just won't idle. I have the 250 mm tubing back on it going to go back to Baseline settings and try it again.
11-22-2003, 04:58 PM
#92
Forget the venom onboard gauge, it's waaaaay off.
11-22-2003, 05:11 PM
#93
waaayyyyy off in what way? Seems to read a bit High But is very responsive and never erratic. Maybe move it up to the bottom fin on the head?If you Know it reads hi do you also know what %? 10% 20%?
Last edited by Fisher890; 11-22-2003 at 05:29 PM.
11-22-2003, 10:24 PM
#94
Hi Fisher,
How many degree when you adjusting the carburettor's needles each time? 1/2 turn? 1/4 turn?
If your adjusting amount is too big each time,you may miss in the setting especially when the right setting is close to.
I usual adjust the needle about 1/12 turn(30 degree) when the right setting is close to.
Also,when you change the pressure line,you need to adjust the low-end needle at the same time. Leaning the low-end needle when you shorten the pressure line. Then let it run several laps.Be patience to find the balance point.
every time your car leave pit,don't full-open the carburettor suddenly. Because there are some fuel collected in the pipe at idle. It will cause engine die out.
I'm sorry I can't tell you the right setting,as you know that there are too many factors like weather; temp; humidity; atmospheric pressure; pipe; plug; fuel; pressure line....etc. I only can tell you how to find the right setting.
Have you try the #5 plug?
How many degree when you adjusting the carburettor's needles each time? 1/2 turn? 1/4 turn?
If your adjusting amount is too big each time,you may miss in the setting especially when the right setting is close to.
I usual adjust the needle about 1/12 turn(30 degree) when the right setting is close to.
Also,when you change the pressure line,you need to adjust the low-end needle at the same time. Leaning the low-end needle when you shorten the pressure line. Then let it run several laps.Be patience to find the balance point.
every time your car leave pit,don't full-open the carburettor suddenly. Because there are some fuel collected in the pipe at idle. It will cause engine die out.
I'm sorry I can't tell you the right setting,as you know that there are too many factors like weather; temp; humidity; atmospheric pressure; pipe; plug; fuel; pressure line....etc. I only can tell you how to find the right setting.
Have you try the #5 plug?
11-23-2003, 01:10 AM
#95
nr T5TC Plugs on the way. I was able to get good reaction from shorter lines. The idle recovery is much faster with the shorter lines. I am sure the temp is lying it is telling me 270-300F when running good. I will keep working with it Dino thank you for the suggestions I think I am on the right track now. my adj. has been about 1/8 turn 45deg. will try smaller. Will try all varibles head shims,hose length, all 4 carb adj.,hotter plug, Breathing much better now..... With the pipe should it be paralel to the ground as it is elevated some toward the front right now.
11-23-2003, 04:41 AM
#96
I had a Venom on my car once and it showed 290 - 320 degrees constantly.
When I checked the temp with a 400 Dollar Exergen temp gun it was 230-240.
When I checked the temp with a 400 Dollar Exergen temp gun it was 230-240.
11-23-2003, 05:00 AM
#97
did you have the sensor at the top of the crankcase like it says to do? thats where I have mine. Might be half of my problems I'm shutting down when I see the High temps and Trying to run richer.Not gonna spend $400 on a thermometor though.......... Gonna Try running it on the first fin at the bottom of the cooling head that i think should be more consistant to the button temp.
11-23-2003, 08:52 AM
#98
Originally posted by Fisher890
I think I am on the right track now.....
I think I am on the right track now.....
11-23-2003, 09:20 AM
#99
Originally posted by Fisher890
did you have the sensor at the top of the crankcase like it says to do? thats where I have mine. Might be half of my problems I'm shutting down when I see the High temps and Trying to run richer.Not gonna spend $400 on a thermometor though.......... Gonna Try running it on the first fin at the bottom of the cooling head that i think should be more consistant to the button temp.
did you have the sensor at the top of the crankcase like it says to do? thats where I have mine. Might be half of my problems I'm shutting down when I see the High temps and Trying to run richer.Not gonna spend $400 on a thermometor though.......... Gonna Try running it on the first fin at the bottom of the cooling head that i think should be more consistant to the button temp.
Ask somebody at the track if you can use their infrared temp gun and throw the Venom as far as you can (or put it on Ebay)
11-24-2003, 12:03 AM
#100
Ya know just out of curiosity when I got this gauge new before I used it i put the sensor under my tongue and it read 98.6. Not trying to say that you don't know your stuff but I really have had steady readings with the gauge. This post was about my problems geting the motor to run in a steady state. Venom Has some advertising dollars invested in this site and I believe they would prefer not to have there product trashed publically. I use the gauge as a tool to measure temp going up or down and it serves it purpose if the numbers are off then maybe they need to work on that but it does tell me if the temp is higher or lower then it was before or after I make adjustments. I'm gonna put it on a motor of mine that i know runs well and see what it reads from there.
Now back to the topic of this motor. I have been able to get the motor running better but it still leansout as the fuel level drops and the temp goes up. I did my adjustments today with both headshims in 5mm/.020" running 130mm exhaust hose to tank. Lower the fuel level the higher the rev the richer i had to run (low Needle) High needle has to be at 3 turns or so or it just floods. To Start the motor and get it over 200F I have to leave the ignitor on. Then I can start running richer and backing down the idle 20-30 deg. at a time till I can finally pull the ignitor and keep it running without it going into a runaway state after reving up and down.If I stay leaner or more idle screw it goes to a runaway idle. If I go any richer or less idle it won't stay running or will flameout on Idle up and down. Temp on the gauge says 300F will say 230-250F realistically at about 1/2 tank left.On the High needle when idle is good we are about 3 turns anymore and it floods less runs very fast but below 1/2 tank idle starts getting faster and have to richen low and back down idle 20-30 deg. This is not acceptable to run on a track. Now with a Hotter Plug I should be able to Idle richer and more stable at a lower temp right?? This is what a hotter plug does isn't it? I don't know how to explain my actions nor the motors reactions any clearer then I have in this post.The Motor really seems like it wants to run and I have found the sweet spot but something is still missing and the hotter plug is the only thing I haven't tried yet. They are on the way but it will be a week or so before I get them.The Baseline settings I got from you dino were great it helped me alot the fueltank line adj. makes alot of differance in idle response.I Know the O'donnell Fuel is good that I am running and I have had the motor open several times and everything looks fine compression is good no oil leaking from the motor or pipe connections. No fuel leaking anywhere/air sucking.ConRod bushing is ok Crankpin is ok Pistion is ok Bearings all clean and free.Gears adj. properly 2 sp kicks in before reving out. If I can get a Proper idle I'll have a Kicka$$ car.
Now back to the topic of this motor. I have been able to get the motor running better but it still leansout as the fuel level drops and the temp goes up. I did my adjustments today with both headshims in 5mm/.020" running 130mm exhaust hose to tank. Lower the fuel level the higher the rev the richer i had to run (low Needle) High needle has to be at 3 turns or so or it just floods. To Start the motor and get it over 200F I have to leave the ignitor on. Then I can start running richer and backing down the idle 20-30 deg. at a time till I can finally pull the ignitor and keep it running without it going into a runaway state after reving up and down.If I stay leaner or more idle screw it goes to a runaway idle. If I go any richer or less idle it won't stay running or will flameout on Idle up and down. Temp on the gauge says 300F will say 230-250F realistically at about 1/2 tank left.On the High needle when idle is good we are about 3 turns anymore and it floods less runs very fast but below 1/2 tank idle starts getting faster and have to richen low and back down idle 20-30 deg. This is not acceptable to run on a track. Now with a Hotter Plug I should be able to Idle richer and more stable at a lower temp right?? This is what a hotter plug does isn't it? I don't know how to explain my actions nor the motors reactions any clearer then I have in this post.The Motor really seems like it wants to run and I have found the sweet spot but something is still missing and the hotter plug is the only thing I haven't tried yet. They are on the way but it will be a week or so before I get them.The Baseline settings I got from you dino were great it helped me alot the fueltank line adj. makes alot of differance in idle response.I Know the O'donnell Fuel is good that I am running and I have had the motor open several times and everything looks fine compression is good no oil leaking from the motor or pipe connections. No fuel leaking anywhere/air sucking.ConRod bushing is ok Crankpin is ok Pistion is ok Bearings all clean and free.Gears adj. properly 2 sp kicks in before reving out. If I can get a Proper idle I'll have a Kicka$$ car.
Last edited by Fisher890; 11-24-2003 at 03:43 AM.
11-24-2003, 12:38 AM
#101
Originally posted by Fisher890
Ya know just out of curiosity when I got this gauge new before I used it i put the sensor under my tongue and it read 98.6. Not trying to say that you don't know your stuff but I really have had steady readings with the gauge.
Ya know just out of curiosity when I got this gauge new before I used it i put the sensor under my tongue and it read 98.6. Not trying to say that you don't know your stuff but I really have had steady readings with the gauge.
11-24-2003, 01:38 AM
#102
TY Sparksy That is the best advise I've heard. Throw it as far as I can doesn't tell me anything. I'll Try that right now!
11-24-2003, 01:50 AM
#103
wow water cools quickly best I could hit was 210.2F right after pulling the boiling pan off the fire.Seems this Venom Temp Gauge is on the money and My motor is running hot.
11-24-2003, 07:20 AM
#104
Originally posted by Fisher890
Now back to the topic of this motor. I have been able to get the motor running better but it still leansout as the fuel level drops and the temp goes up. I did my adjustments today with both headshims in 5mm/.020" running 130mm exhaust hose to tank. Lower the fuel level the higher the rev the richer i had to run (low Needle) High needle has to be at 3 turns or so or it just floods. To Start the motor and get it over 200F I have to leave the ignitor on. Then I can start running richer and backing down the idle 20-30 deg. at a time till I can finally pull the ignitor and keep it running without it going into a runaway state after reving up and down.If I stay leaner or more idle screw it goes to a runaway idle. If I go any richer or less idle it won't stay running or will flameout on Idle up and down. Temp on the gauge says 300F will say 230-250F realistically at about 1/2 tank left.On the High needle when idle is good we are about 3 turns anymore and it floods less runs very fast but below 1/2 tank idle starts getting faster and have to richen low and back down idle 20-30 deg. This is not acceptable to run on a track. Now with a Hotter Plug I should be able to Idle richer and more stable at a lower temp right?? This is what a hotter plug does isn't it? I don't know how to explain my actions nor the motors reactions any clearer then I have in this post.The Motor really seems like it wants to run and I have found the sweet spot but something is still missing and the hotter plug is the only thing I haven't tried yet. They are on the way but it will be a week or so before I get them.The Baseline settings I got from you dino were great it helped me alot the fueltank line adj. makes alot of differance in idle response.I Know the O'donnell Fuel is good that I am running and I have had the motor open several times and everything looks fine compression is good no oil leaking from the motor or pipe connections. No fuel leaking anywhere/air sucking.ConRod bushing is ok Crankpin is ok Pistion is ok Bearings all clean and free.Gears adj. properly 2 sp kicks in before reving out. If I can get a Proper idle I'll have a Kicka$$ car.
Now back to the topic of this motor. I have been able to get the motor running better but it still leansout as the fuel level drops and the temp goes up. I did my adjustments today with both headshims in 5mm/.020" running 130mm exhaust hose to tank. Lower the fuel level the higher the rev the richer i had to run (low Needle) High needle has to be at 3 turns or so or it just floods. To Start the motor and get it over 200F I have to leave the ignitor on. Then I can start running richer and backing down the idle 20-30 deg. at a time till I can finally pull the ignitor and keep it running without it going into a runaway state after reving up and down.If I stay leaner or more idle screw it goes to a runaway idle. If I go any richer or less idle it won't stay running or will flameout on Idle up and down. Temp on the gauge says 300F will say 230-250F realistically at about 1/2 tank left.On the High needle when idle is good we are about 3 turns anymore and it floods less runs very fast but below 1/2 tank idle starts getting faster and have to richen low and back down idle 20-30 deg. This is not acceptable to run on a track. Now with a Hotter Plug I should be able to Idle richer and more stable at a lower temp right?? This is what a hotter plug does isn't it? I don't know how to explain my actions nor the motors reactions any clearer then I have in this post.The Motor really seems like it wants to run and I have found the sweet spot but something is still missing and the hotter plug is the only thing I haven't tried yet. They are on the way but it will be a week or so before I get them.The Baseline settings I got from you dino were great it helped me alot the fueltank line adj. makes alot of differance in idle response.I Know the O'donnell Fuel is good that I am running and I have had the motor open several times and everything looks fine compression is good no oil leaking from the motor or pipe connections. No fuel leaking anywhere/air sucking.ConRod bushing is ok Crankpin is ok Pistion is ok Bearings all clean and free.Gears adj. properly 2 sp kicks in before reving out. If I can get a Proper idle I'll have a Kicka$$ car.
Try this before you get #5 plugs...
0.4mm shims / 30%Nitor
0.3mm shims / 25%Nitro
11-24-2003, 01:10 PM
#105
Bad Batch of fuel....... or more nitro content one of the two.Runs like a champ now thx dino.