NEW! 1/8TH ON-ROAD P909 by PROTOform
#181
MRX4XXXX:
The slightly revised Protoform P909 has been in production since mid Nov. 2010. It still has the original part #1504 marked on the mold. The body was re-submitted to EFRA and they did not require a new EFRA number to be put in the mold because the changes were so minor.
There's a strong possibility that the distributor/dealer network has the un-revised bodies in stock - and will for a period of time. The best way to ID the revised body is the small center fin at the rear spoiler.
*Note: the unrevised body is ROAR/BRCA/FEMCA/FAMAR etc. legal and will work equally well in Non-EFRA sanctioned racing. The changes were made because of a minor 2011 rule change in side dam height required by EFRA (IFMAR).
Dale - Protoform
The slightly revised Protoform P909 has been in production since mid Nov. 2010. It still has the original part #1504 marked on the mold. The body was re-submitted to EFRA and they did not require a new EFRA number to be put in the mold because the changes were so minor.
There's a strong possibility that the distributor/dealer network has the un-revised bodies in stock - and will for a period of time. The best way to ID the revised body is the small center fin at the rear spoiler.
*Note: the unrevised body is ROAR/BRCA/FEMCA/FAMAR etc. legal and will work equally well in Non-EFRA sanctioned racing. The changes were made because of a minor 2011 rule change in side dam height required by EFRA (IFMAR).
Dale - Protoform
A little clarification? So is the old version still allowed for EFRA races if I setup it so that the max height is below 160mm??
-X-
#182
MRX4XXXX:
Yes the older ones are legal as long as the number is there.
The only reason for the change was to allow the body fit ALL the different brands of chassis - to be below the 160mm height rule.
Dale - Protoform
Yes the older ones are legal as long as the number is there.
The only reason for the change was to allow the body fit ALL the different brands of chassis - to be below the 160mm height rule.
Dale - Protoform
#183
#184
Tech Adept
Ok, so I'm about to mount the 909 to my Serpent 960. I will try it at 11mm in front of the bumper. Also, I have my rear 'A' arms mounted in their lowest position on the rear uprights and in the second mounting hole from the inside at the top.
I have always cut and fitted my shell to the car before painting, however I have seen guys do the painting first. What really is the correct sequence that gives best results?
Regards
I have always cut and fitted my shell to the car before painting, however I have seen guys do the painting first. What really is the correct sequence that gives best results?
Regards
#185
I prefer to mount them when clear, especially if I don't have a template. If I have a template, it really doesn't matter which way.
#186
Jim,
First of all, the P909 is a good choice for your Serpent 960. The body makes the car stable and easy to drive. If you ask me I would go even further than the 11mm, but it depends also on your driving skills. More forward mounting results in more steering, and personally I like that.
As for your rear arms, I am not sure (since I am a Kyosho Evolva M3 Evo driver), but the max. body height should be 160 mm under the current EFRA rules. Always try to get close to that max. as it will give more down force and the side of the body also helps to keep the car stable in long & fast turns.
I also prefer to mount them when still clear, actually I never use a template, even if I have the same used body. I always start from scratch. This give you the chance to mount it perfectly on your car (as forward or backward as you want it) and perfectly centred. Unscrew the cooling head of your engine, take out the fuel tank, and the roll bar. After making the holes for the body posts you can press the body on the glow plug and you will have your centre point for circling out your cooling head circle.
Take your time to make it fit perfectly, you’ll appreciate it on the track later on.
Regards,
Richard
First of all, the P909 is a good choice for your Serpent 960. The body makes the car stable and easy to drive. If you ask me I would go even further than the 11mm, but it depends also on your driving skills. More forward mounting results in more steering, and personally I like that.
As for your rear arms, I am not sure (since I am a Kyosho Evolva M3 Evo driver), but the max. body height should be 160 mm under the current EFRA rules. Always try to get close to that max. as it will give more down force and the side of the body also helps to keep the car stable in long & fast turns.
I also prefer to mount them when still clear, actually I never use a template, even if I have the same used body. I always start from scratch. This give you the chance to mount it perfectly on your car (as forward or backward as you want it) and perfectly centred. Unscrew the cooling head of your engine, take out the fuel tank, and the roll bar. After making the holes for the body posts you can press the body on the glow plug and you will have your centre point for circling out your cooling head circle.
Take your time to make it fit perfectly, you’ll appreciate it on the track later on.
Regards,
Richard
#187
Tech Adept
Richard, thanks for your advice
I'll give it ago at 11mm as I've not used my 8th for couple of years so think this will be a good starting point for me. Are the body stiffeners needed and how are they best fixed to the shell? I have the 1mm thick version.
Regards.
I'll give it ago at 11mm as I've not used my 8th for couple of years so think this will be a good starting point for me. Are the body stiffeners needed and how are they best fixed to the shell? I have the 1mm thick version.
Regards.
#188
Stiffeners are definitely needed, and the best way to fix them is with double sided tape.
I forgot the brand, but in my LHS they sell a white thick very lightweight type. I have to go there and get some new stock anyway this week for my new bodies. I'll let you know which brand it is.
This has 2 advantages, white will not be visible from outside your body, and the thickness absorbes the curves of the body. So, besides of the superb tackiness, this makes it stick really well to the lexan.
I forgot the brand, but in my LHS they sell a white thick very lightweight type. I have to go there and get some new stock anyway this week for my new bodies. I'll let you know which brand it is.
This has 2 advantages, white will not be visible from outside your body, and the thickness absorbes the curves of the body. So, besides of the superb tackiness, this makes it stick really well to the lexan.
#189
just wondering if anyone knows if the 909 is the same as the new xceed c5, also what effect does the distance from the bumber to the front of the body have on the handling of the car. im driving a velox and was wondering what is a good starting point for this distance