Engin Break-In?
11-03-2003, 07:51 AM
#16
Originally posted by tIANcI
I have broken in my engines as told by my LHS and its usually running it rich at about 38-40 degrees celcius for say 10 tanks. If you are talking about your modded 5 ports (Rody, Massimo, JP Black etc) then about 18-20 tanks will be great.
Just let the engine run on full throttle at 38-40 degrees celcius and after that just tune your engine up as recommended by the manufacturer.
I have broken in my engines as told by my LHS and its usually running it rich at about 38-40 degrees celcius for say 10 tanks. If you are talking about your modded 5 ports (Rody, Massimo, JP Black etc) then about 18-20 tanks will be great.
Just let the engine run on full throttle at 38-40 degrees celcius and after that just tune your engine up as recommended by the manufacturer.
ABC engines need heat to break-in properly...the number of ports make no difference in break-in procedure. Your LHS is giving you the wrong info, the preferred method these days is to idle one tank at factory carb settings, keepign the temp around 200-210F, then proceed to run it. Don't forget to change the glow-plug after the initial break-in (break-in particles usually contaminate the element). Use the same fuel you plan on running with, as well. ABC engines may be a bit finicky until that first gallon of fuel is burned, then they will begin to make true power. 
Con-rods should not have to be changed out after initial running in, I've never heard this before.
Never changed one until excess play develops in the big-end bushing...
11-03-2003, 08:27 AM
#17
Usually my engines just receive 1 tank at idle, 4-5 tanks playing idle-mid power-full power with a good amount of smoke but not toooooo rich ... and after that a couple more tanks at that setting on the track ... after that just fine tunning and race ...
11-03-2003, 08:43 AM
#18
Originally posted by Old Skool
10 tanks? 18-20?! That makes no sense. ABC engines need heat to break-in properly...the number of ports make no difference in break-in procedure. Your LHS is giving you the wrong info, the preferred method these days is to idle one tank at factory carb settings, keepign the temp around 200-210F, then proceed to run it. Don't forget to change the glow-plug after the initial break-in (break-in particles usually contaminate the element). Use the same fuel you plan on running with, as well. ABC engines may be a bit finicky until that first gallon of fuel is burned, then they will begin to make true power.
Con-rods should not have to be changed out after initial running in, I've never heard this before. Never changed one until excess play develops in the big-end bushing...
10 tanks? 18-20?! That makes no sense.
ABC engines need heat to break-in properly...the number of ports make no difference in break-in procedure. Your LHS is giving you the wrong info, the preferred method these days is to idle one tank at factory carb settings, keepign the temp around 200-210F, then proceed to run it. Don't forget to change the glow-plug after the initial break-in (break-in particles usually contaminate the element). Use the same fuel you plan on running with, as well. ABC engines may be a bit finicky until that first gallon of fuel is burned, then they will begin to make true power. Con-rods should not have to be changed out after initial running in, I've never heard this before.
Never changed one until excess play develops in the big-end bushing...
11-03-2003, 07:12 PM
#19
Yep. Keep that temp gun handy. There's no use to have an engine running slobbering rich on the starter box with a huge puddle of fuel beside the stinger. 
Back in the day when I got my first ABC engine(HPI .12R, anyone remember those?), I idled it so rich I could hold my hand on the head forever, and this continued for like, 8 tanks. I thought that was the thing to do. Well, the engine lasted forever (I still have it today), but never reached its full power potential. When I rebuilt it earlier this summer, I installed a new piston and sleeve set...same conrod, mind...stuck a new MC-59 plug in and idled that puppy for one tank, adjusting the carb so that the temps remained in the 200F range. Tossed the now-contaminated plug for a fresh one, installed it in my XXX-NT along with an AE pipe, and ran it. Temps stayed in the 220F range for the first gallon, then it woke up. 
Truth to tell, even for a rotary-carbed, side-exhaust engine with "only" 1hp, I'm afraid to lean it out to full race temps (240-260F) because the truck is barely controllable as it is.
Back in the day when I got my first ABC engine(HPI .12R, anyone remember those?), I idled it so rich I could hold my hand on the head forever, and this continued for like, 8 tanks. I thought that was the thing to do. Well, the engine lasted forever (I still have it today), but never reached its full power potential. When I rebuilt it earlier this summer, I installed a new piston and sleeve set...same conrod, mind...stuck a new MC-59 plug in and idled that puppy for one tank, adjusting the carb so that the temps remained in the 200F range. Tossed the now-contaminated plug for a fresh one, installed it in my XXX-NT along with an AE pipe, and ran it. Temps stayed in the 220F range for the first gallon, then it woke up. Truth to tell, even for a rotary-carbed, side-exhaust engine with "only" 1hp, I'm afraid to lean it out to full race temps (240-260F) because the truck is barely controllable as it is.
11-03-2003, 07:14 PM
#20
Oh, and some of the hardcore racers don't even idle one tank. They disassemble and inspect a new engine, stick it in the car and go race. The engines can take the heat.
11-06-2003, 11:38 AM
#21
Tech Master
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: JOHOR BAHRU, MALAYSIA but now working in SHANGHAI
Posts: 1,797
BREAK IN PROCEDURE - for reference
ok... this one i got from nitroreview.com
only for reference... as a start... at least you know what to prepare, what to do and what to expect.
mop
only for reference... as a start... at least you know what to prepare, what to do and what to expect.
mop
11-06-2003, 11:41 AM
#22
Tech Master
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: JOHOR BAHRU, MALAYSIA but now working in SHANGHAI
Posts: 1,797
BREAK IN PROCEDURE - for reference
Got this from http://harcohobbies.com/articles/nitro_break_in.asp
Nice and easy to understand…thanks to ROB..
HPIR40 manual said... you should use the NITRO % that you want to use AFTER BREAK IN... in short... if you intend to use 25% for running your car... then you should use 25% during the break in process no need to use lower %. That is what being said in the HPIR40 manual.
mop
Nice and easy to understand…thanks to ROB..
HPIR40 manual said... you should use the NITRO % that you want to use AFTER BREAK IN... in short... if you intend to use 25% for running your car... then you should use 25% during the break in process no need to use lower %. That is what being said in the HPIR40 manual.
mop
11-06-2003, 09:01 PM
#23
Thanks for all the infos guys. Im newbie in engine treatment. I never break in an engine B4 coz i always ask the shop owner, who sold me the engine, duhh...to do it. If its not done properly, i will not buy it from him.
no harm done to any animal here 
no harm done to any animal here
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