Originally Posted by burty

lol,sorry,that was a bit vague of me wasnt it,im located at wagga wagga nsw australia,hoping to purchase online,cheers.

Originally Posted by burty

cheers for the help guys,hey there soc123,whats the price for the 966 in aussie,just curious,i was getting a second hand 960,but ive decided to get the 966,just trying to find one.

Originally Posted by burty

gday there guys,just wanting to make sure i have everything i need when my car shows up,other than the obvious what else will i be needing that isnt included in the kit,does it come with oils and lube and what not,i do have all this stuff but everything i have is offroad,being lubes from previous builds and shock and diff oils for my buggies.sorry for all the questions,where could i find paulo's setup sheet,i went back and checked every page and can only find the default setup sheet,sorry this question has probably been asked a few times,but i cant find the answer,so thought id just ask,are all tyres interchangeable,im reading these fit kyosho/mugen,these fit serpent only,i also found something about os2 and os1,im assuming wheels offset,sorry for all the dumb questions guys,thankyou very much for all your help.
anything else you think i should be aware of?Im all ears,cheers and beers,burty.

Originally Posted by burty

thanks heaps for the info samuel,(it is samuel???)muchly appreciated,wasnt sure about the tyres,just wanted to be sure,cheers again.
regards,burty.

Originally Posted by Paolo M

Hi guys,

I sent an e-mail to several of you that were willing to know about my experiences with the car. I will post that same info here, just so people that don't feel to send me an e-mail will be able to read the info.

Shocks: soak the foam with oil before building. Fill the shocks until the first thread. I found a good and technical way to make sure the shocks are equal. I use caste clips. Basically I put caster clips in the shaft. So after no more air is in there, pull the piston and install the caster clip (I use 5 mm caster clips for the rear shocks and 4 mm for the front) Screw in the shocks (couple of turns) Then start pushing in the piston all the way down (the caster clip is going to limit the travel). With the piston in this position, screw all the way in the plastic parts. After this remove the caster clip. You will end up with a shock that is super Smooth thru the whole travel with a almost a 50% rebound. If you want less rebound, go 1 mm less clips (both front and rear shocks

Setup: This is what i was using as starting point every were. I will say with this my car was 90%. The rest was just small adjustments depending on track conditions

Front
Downstops 0 (really bumpy track -1)
Sway flat
Car long
Roll center: 1 mm under upper arms and pins inside.
Caster 2 mm in the front
Ackerman: narrow/in
Schocks: 3holes 40WT (1000cst) or 45WT (1400cst). Green springs and 1st position on tower. Stock springs works too but are softer
Wheel scrub: 1 mm inside
Toe: 3 total
Camber: 1.5
Steering blocks: # 2 on the right side
Wheel axle pos: up (sometime I like in the middle) I use just a big bearing for this
Ride height on hudy setup station: 8 (really bumpy track 9)
No under chassis stiffner

Rear
Downstops 6 (really bumpy track 5)
Sway Flat, outside
Car long
Roll center: lower pin all the way up. Upper arm inner hole in the bulkhead, middle hole in the upright, with 2mm spacer
Schocks: 3holes 40WT (1000cst) or 45WT (1400cst). Pink springs and 1st position on tower. Stock spings work too but are softer
Wheel Scrub: 0mm inside
Toe: 2.5
Camber: 3.5
No side stiffner on the right. Left stiffner not screw it in the rear bulkhead (I cut mine so it hold only the belt tensioner) but I have extra in case I want to use it in a specific condition
Ride height on hudy setup: 9.5 (really bumpy track 10.5)
Body position; Whit Zytec I use upper hole in the upright (body mount arm) and second hole from the outside in the body mount Attention: Make sure that you move the bodymount centering shaft if you decide to lower or raise the body. You have 2 holes in the shock tower.

Clutch:
flyweights pivoting against the rotation of the engine Gap 0.8 End play 0.3. Under extreme low traction condition, go to 0.6 gap and 0.3 end play.
Preload: 1.2

Gears:
Low bite: 16-48 / 19-45
High biter: 15-47 or 48 / 19-45

This is the setups I was using. This weekend I made several test and I found a better compromise. Below the changes (whatever is not there I used the same as above)
Front
Roll center: 0 mm under upper arms and pins inside.
Shocks: 1 holes 800 CST with green springs 1st hole
Camber : 2.5 outside 2 inside
Steering blocks; #1 on the right and #2 on the left
Wheel axle: Middle (I use a big bearing)

Rear
Shocks: 2 holes 800 CST with pink springs 1st hole

The car was very good with this setup. I used same shore tires front and rear

Hope this info can help