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Old 03-04-2011, 03:03 PM   #1456
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The engine is a Novarossi kangaroo, Its very difficult for me to explain the 0.8 spring, a measure the top of the crank to the start of screw, and apply there a Zero point then i measure to the top nut that press the spring and got there my measure, (if you understand me)
I will try the 10mm measure but already burn 2 clutch, so i fear that it will not work.
Thxs
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Old 03-04-2011, 03:11 PM   #1457
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Originally Posted by kavajas View Post
The engine is a Novarossi kangaroo, Its very difficult for me to explain the 0.8 spring, a measure the top of the crank to the start of screw, and apply there a Zero point then i measure to the top nut that press the spring and got there my measure, (if you understand me)
I will try the 10mm measure but already burn 2 clutch, so i fear that it will not work.
Thxs
Yes, I understand what you mean. Then 0.8mm seems ok, I have gone further than that....
Really have no idea why you seem to burn clutches!
Are the flyweights moving free over the pins, or are they binding?
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Old 03-04-2011, 03:17 PM   #1458
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They were new ones, maybe not as free as it should be, but i never think that could happened,
So thats the best and the top performance clutch to use?
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Old 03-04-2011, 03:25 PM   #1459
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Can you maybe take the time and make some pictures of your clutch?
I can only think of 1 thing I have seen before and that is that you have installed the plate the other way around....
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Old 03-04-2011, 03:29 PM   #1460
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Will try to take some pictures.
The only thing i change was i put the original flywheel shoes, same gap and it works until today.
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Old 03-05-2011, 11:51 AM   #1461
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[QUOTE=M7H;8744799]The video is correct, I don't know what you mean with left and right hole, we are confusing each other.
These are the holes which must be placed over the pins.



ok after reading and watchint the video i took my apart and my weights don't have holes on the right just on the left also looking at my manual its the same...do i need to change them???
These flyweights where never meant to be put in between the pins, who told you that?
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Old 03-05-2011, 12:03 PM   #1462
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The weights in the video and in the pic are the optional ones.
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Old 03-05-2011, 01:02 PM   #1463
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Originally Posted by kavajas View Post
The engine is a Novarossi kangaroo, Its very difficult for me to explain the 0.8 spring, a measure the top of the crank to the start of screw, and apply there a Zero point then i measure to the top nut that press the spring and got there my measure, (if you understand me)
I will try the 10mm measure but already burn 2 clutch, so i fear that it will not work.
Thxs
Has your clutch ever partially thrown a centrifugal weight out? If it has, then your problem could be a bent clutch bell. If the bell is bent even a little it will eat clutch shoes.

Lee
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Old 03-05-2011, 04:09 PM   #1464
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Has your clutch ever partially thrown a centrifugal weight out? If it has, then your problem could be a bent clutch bell. If the bell is bent even a little it will eat clutch shoes.

Lee
Hi there Lee, i know what you mean, i dont know after burned out i switch to the original flywheel weight, i put a new bell on. I notice even wen you apply new bearings on the clutch,(everything new) still have some play to the sides if you know what i mean.
Itīs raining this weekend no change to give a try.
Even so thxs to all the help around here.
Best,
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Old 03-06-2011, 02:30 AM   #1465
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Default One-Way Woes - Help Needed

I desperately need help / advice.

Over the past 6 months, I have gone thru 5 sets of 2-speed 1-ways.

the problem... when a new set (2-speed adaptor shaft and 1-way bearing) goes into the car, it will run fine for approximately 7 to 8 tanks. Thereafter, it will start to lockup every now and then, i.e. the 2-speed adaptor shaft gets stuck in the 1-way. This is easily resolved by gently turning the 2-speed adaptor shaft clockwise and then it will come out fine. It will come to a stage where the needle pins in the 1-way will dislodge and then I have to change a new set.

I clean and relube my 1-way b4 each outing.

I use a combination of 1-way lube and associated diff grease.

can someone please please please please tell me what i'm doing wrong? The other serpent drivers at my track are puzzled as hell as well.

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Old 03-06-2011, 07:05 AM   #1466
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Originally Posted by sammies View Post
I desperately need help / advice.

Over the past 6 months, I have gone thru 5 sets of 2-speed 1-ways.

the problem... when a new set (2-speed adaptor shaft and 1-way bearing) goes into the car, it will run fine for approximately 7 to 8 tanks. Thereafter, it will start to lockup every now and then, i.e. the 2-speed adaptor shaft gets stuck in the 1-way. This is easily resolved by gently turning the 2-speed adaptor shaft clockwise and then it will come out fine. It will come to a stage where the needle pins in the 1-way will dislodge and then I have to change a new set.

I clean and relube my 1-way b4 each outing.

I use a combination of 1-way lube and associated diff grease.

can someone please please please please tell me what i'm doing wrong? The other serpent drivers at my track are puzzled as hell as well.

I never ever ever clean my 2spd oneway, and I only oil everyonce in a while, and I have been running my oneway for 3 years. Im still on my original 960 oneway, there was a point when I used to run every weekend. Just dont clean it, I've seen people that clean and right after they do it goes bad, other brands too. Try it, get a new one, with a new adapter and dont clean it, just run it, I bet it will last.
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Old 03-06-2011, 08:12 AM   #1467
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I never ever ever clean my 2spd oneway, and I only oil everyonce in a while, and I have been running my oneway for 3 years. Im still on my original 960 oneway, there was a point when I used to run every weekend. Just dont clean it, I've seen people that clean and right after they do it goes bad, other brands too. Try it, get a new one, with a new adapter and dont clean it, just run it, I bet it will last.
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Old 03-06-2011, 08:29 AM   #1468
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Also don't mix the lube with the grease. Only use one or the other. Just use the Associated grease.
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Old 03-06-2011, 08:50 AM   #1469
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Originally Posted by sammies View Post
I desperately need help / advice.

Over the past 6 months, I have gone thru 5 sets of 2-speed 1-ways.

the problem... when a new set (2-speed adaptor shaft and 1-way bearing) goes into the car, it will run fine for approximately 7 to 8 tanks. Thereafter, it will start to lockup every now and then, i.e. the 2-speed adaptor shaft gets stuck in the 1-way. This is easily resolved by gently turning the 2-speed adaptor shaft clockwise and then it will come out fine. It will come to a stage where the needle pins in the 1-way will dislodge and then I have to change a new set.

I clean and relube my 1-way b4 each outing.

I use a combination of 1-way lube and associated diff grease.

can someone please please please please tell me what i'm doing wrong? The other serpent drivers at my track are puzzled as hell as well.

sounds like either there is too much play or something is binding. make sure everything is seated properly and there is minimal play
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Old 03-06-2011, 11:16 AM   #1470
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Originally Posted by nitrodude View Post
I never ever ever clean my 2spd oneway, and I only oil everyonce in a while, and I have been running my oneway for 3 years. Im still on my original 960 oneway, there was a point when I used to run every weekend. Just dont clean it, I've seen people that clean and right after they do it goes bad, other brands too. Try it, get a new one, with a new adapter and dont clean it, just run it, I bet it will last.
The oneway from the 950 and 960 are different from the new oneways. If the inside of the oneway is RED, use grease NOT oil. I went thru a couple before I was told.
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