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Old 08-10-2010, 05:40 AM   #1156
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Originally Posted by amuse View Post
it's not the matter of on or offroad, i've built a few 10th scale and most recent being the TOP Photon, and the workmanship of the plastic parts is much better than the bigger scale 966. so the size should be an excuse.
well i was talking about offroad parts being bigger .but with all the talk the best racers in the world still tailor the cars to them selves and the tracks what ever is takes to win !!! point is they look out side the box
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Old 08-10-2010, 05:48 AM   #1157
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i do agree which i like my car to be built perfect or as close to the first time, but the 966 i've just built is not the necessary mod to make it smooth. it's without "modding", parts cant even be fitted. example that pops to mind, the spurs that i have in the kit, the hole where you place the bearings, the long shaft cannot even make through the hole due to the flashings.
well having flashing on parts that you clean off is that really something to talk about .
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Old 08-10-2010, 09:35 PM   #1158
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well having flashing on parts that you clean off is that really something to talk about .
if you put it that way, no, it's not something to talk about. but if you read my original post, that was one of the issues, and it's more about the overall of the kit as a whole than a particular part. i just use the flashing as an example and it was a bad one.

minor mod to have parts moving freely is just part of the hobby, which i understand. i am looking at the downhill slide from when i first owned a Serpent, the first 960 until now. Although i dont own every one between them, i did buy parts and upgrades which does show a degrade in the workmanship or finish of the part.

since i am at it, i was building the 4 shocks for my 966 tonight, the shaft dont even slide smoothly out of the bag. i disassemble all cartridge and rebuild each with new x-ring just to be on the safe side. and they are still not smooth. this is not what i remember when i build my 960. and just for the record, when i bought my 960, i was out of the hobby for almost 10 years, 960 being my 4th kit built. i have absolutely no trouble building it that is smooth as butter.

I still like my Serpents but that doesnt mean it's ok for the quality and workmanship to go downhill.

and for the Serpent dealer to tell me that all his kits went together fine, then all i can say is maybe i got a bad kit. that's just over protecting the brand.
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Old 08-11-2010, 01:12 AM   #1159
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if you put it that way, no, it's not something to talk about. but if you read my original post, that was one of the issues, and it's more about the overall of the kit as a whole than a particular part. i just use the flashing as an example and it was a bad one.

minor mod to have parts moving freely is just part of the hobby, which i understand. i am looking at the downhill slide from when i first owned a Serpent, the first 960 until now. Although i dont own every one between them, i did buy parts and upgrades which does show a degrade in the workmanship or finish of the part.

since i am at it, i was building the 4 shocks for my 966 tonight, the shaft dont even slide smoothly out of the bag. i disassemble all cartridge and rebuild each with new x-ring just to be on the safe side. and they are still not smooth. this is not what i remember when i build my 960. and just for the record, when i bought my 960, i was out of the hobby for almost 10 years, 960 being my 4th kit built. i have absolutely no trouble building it that is smooth as butter.

I still like my Serpents but that doesnt mean it's ok for the quality and workmanship to go downhill.

and for the Serpent dealer to tell me that all his kits went together fine, then all i can say is maybe i got a bad kit. that's just over protecting the brand.
about the shocks i have to dissagree, because when i updated from rcc to the new rccx shocks with the new x-rings i felt that shocks are much smoother than before. Just with these x-rings, especially the one on the cup, you have to be carefull when putting the shock together not to damage it, its too soft but keeps the oil inside, thats for sure.
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Old 08-11-2010, 03:26 AM   #1160
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can someone tell me the length of the LONG serpent shocks with the rod fully extened and the length of the bodies?

like this



need to compare to short..

short is
68mm
and to body is 39.2mm
?
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Old 08-11-2010, 03:37 AM   #1161
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
?
??? PM sent.
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Old 08-11-2010, 04:41 AM   #1162
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??? PM sent.
thanks for the measurements.

long body, 38.5mm from top of shock to bottom of body, and 73.4 in total length. short shock body 36.5mm and 66.1mm in total length. my shocks are long body long shaft, and short body short shaft. hope this helps, Regards, Patto.
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Old 08-11-2010, 05:08 AM   #1163
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Originally Posted by amuse View Post
if you put it that way, no, it's not something to talk about. but if you read my original post, that was one of the issues, and it's more about the overall of the kit as a whole than a particular part. i just use the flashing as an example and it was a bad one.

minor mod to have parts moving freely is just part of the hobby, which i understand. i am looking at the downhill slide from when i first owned a Serpent, the first 960 until now. Although i dont own every one between them, i did buy parts and upgrades which does show a degrade in the workmanship or finish of the part.

since i am at it, i was building the 4 shocks for my 966 tonight, the shaft dont even slide smoothly out of the bag. i disassemble all cartridge and rebuild each with new x-ring just to be on the safe side. and they are still not smooth. this is not what i remember when i build my 960. and just for the record, when i bought my 960, i was out of the hobby for almost 10 years, 960 being my 4th kit built. i have absolutely no trouble building it that is smooth as butter.

I still like my Serpents but that doesnt mean it's ok for the quality and workmanship to go downhill.

and for the Serpent dealer to tell me that all his kits went together fine, then all i can say is maybe i got a bad kit. that's just over protecting the brand.
well i have had just about al the serpent kits and the upgrade kits and the kits i had no trouble with . as for kits i have built a lot and the 966 and 733 have been easy to build .even with the parts going from being made in germany to china . as for shocks never had a problem with the new shocks . i think there the best on the market right now . just my 2 cents
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Old 08-11-2010, 05:37 AM   #1164
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well i have had just about al the serpent kits and the upgrade kits and the kits i had no trouble with . as for kits i have built a lot and the 966 and 733 have been easy to build .even with the parts going from being made in germany to china . as for shocks never had a problem with the new shocks . i think there the best on the market right now . just my 2 cents
second that, best shocks period !
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Old 08-11-2010, 07:09 PM   #1165
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Default short rear wheelbase

anyone got the problem of the sway bar linkage rubbing on the spur gear (during up travel) when you try to use the shortest rear wheelbase?

how to overcome this 'issue'? or i'm doing something not right?
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Old 08-11-2010, 08:05 PM   #1166
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anyone got the problem of the sway bar linkage rubbing on the spur gear (during up travel) when you try to use the shortest rear wheelbase?

how to overcome this 'issue'? or i'm doing something not right?
If you want the short wheel base setting, it is better to mount the sway bar link on the other side of the lower arm, this way the link is far away from the spur, do the same to the left side so it will be even. Hope this helps.
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Old 08-11-2010, 08:45 PM   #1167
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Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze View Post
If you want the short wheel base setting, it is better to mount the sway bar link on the other side of the lower arm, this way the link is far away from the spur, do the same to the left side so it will be even. Hope this helps.
and be sure to check clearance from lower arm to spurs. i ran a short wheelbase for a while, and funny enough the lower arm had some cutouts that aligned with the spurs.
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Old 08-11-2010, 11:47 PM   #1168
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The maximum recommended for the rear is 2mm short (2 orange spacer towards the back on each lower hinge pin) anything over (which is not recommended) will cause the spur to rub against the arm when the suspension compresses.
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Old 08-12-2010, 12:10 AM   #1169
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thanks guys for the quick reply, but i still find running 2mm short is abit too close for my liking. currently running 1mm short...
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Old 08-12-2010, 12:10 AM   #1170
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
thanks for the measurements.

long body, 38.5mm from top of shock to bottom of body, and 73.4 in total length. short shock body 36.5mm and 66.1mm in total length. my shocks are long body long shaft, and short body short shaft. hope this helps, Regards, Patto.
can someone confirm this?
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