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Old 05-09-2010, 05:54 PM   #1081
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Originally Posted by xtreme888 View Post
Hiya,

Could anyone help me with set up of the clutch ? using
leading flyweight no setscrew
1.8mm spring set to 1.2mm
gap 0.6mm
0.1 end play

iclutch engage slow but ok when warm up..punch get worse after a while and yellow clutch dust seen around in box...clutch very worn and clutch housing very warm to touch.

more or less default setting...read but cant find method of building clutch similar to mugen with flyweight between pins....

Thanks
yr clutch is slipping if you're seeing clutch dust...
just set your spring to 1mm and you should be good to go.
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Old 05-10-2010, 09:41 AM   #1082
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I also think that .6 of gap it too little for the Serpent 966 clutch. I would use at least .8 in low bite and .9 in high bite. Then work the spring around that gap.

The shape of our bell requires more gap to get a good clutch. IMO

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Old 05-10-2010, 03:03 PM   #1083
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Speaking of clutch tuning....

Great chance to meet some factory driver and attend seminars on clutch and chassis tuning.

Mark the date.

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Old 05-11-2010, 05:55 PM   #1084
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Default front hub eccentric

hi all,
i have been using big bearings for my front wheel hubs, just wondering what's the effects/impact if i were to use the wheel eccentric facing up or down?

how will it affect the car?
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Old 05-16-2010, 11:41 PM   #1085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtreme888 View Post
Hiya,

Could anyone help me with set up of the clutch ? using
leading flyweight no setscrew
1.8mm spring set to 1.2mm
gap 0.6mm
0.1 end play

iclutch engage slow but ok when warm up..punch get worse after a while and yellow clutch dust seen around in box...clutch very worn and clutch housing very warm to touch.

more or less default setting...read but cant find method of building clutch similar to mugen with flyweight between pins....

Thanks


Check out the Salven video on redrc.net Make sure the inside of the clutchbell is still smooth, the lightened ones can burn. The red shoe is also stronger then the yellow in my opinion.

Last edited by sheeley; 06-08-2010 at 04:54 AM. Reason: I must have been drunk since I dont remember posting this lol
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Old 05-18-2010, 01:18 PM   #1086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtreme888 View Post
Hiya,

Could anyone help me with set up of the clutch ? using
leading flyweight no setscrew
1.8mm spring set to 1.2mm
gap 0.6mm
0.1 end play

iclutch engage slow but ok when warm up..punch get worse after a while and yellow clutch dust seen around in box...clutch very worn and clutch housing very warm to touch.

more or less default setting...read but cant find method of building clutch similar to mugen with flyweight between pins....

Thanks
Maybe check for a bent pressure plate. I dont see anything crazy with your setup, maybe something could make it better but its not so far off that it should have dust. Check out Michael Salvens clutch setup video on you tube or red rc to make sure the settings you say here are the the same setting on how everyone measures it. Some guys have a weird way of measuring things and the setting might not even be close to what is "normal" on how it should be measured.

Hope that helps.
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Old 05-18-2010, 02:54 PM   #1087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicky03 View Post
Maybe check for a bent pressure plate. I dont see anything crazy with your setup, maybe something could make it better but its not so far off that it should have dust. Check out Michael Salvens clutch setup video on you tube or red rc to make sure the settings you say here are the the same setting on how everyone measures it. Some guys have a weird way of measuring things and the setting might not even be close to what is "normal" on how it should be measured.

Hope that helps.
Already checked pressure plate and bell not bent...followed salven method, but after chatting to Mark Green at one of the national whom rebuilt my clutch it was working properly. He just tighten the spring to about 4 turns from clutch nut.shimmed from crankshaft 0.7mm with from crank to bell with small bearing added and then checked measurement with all big bearing,spacer and small bearing. finall taken out end play with shims under thrust nut...............place car on track and it went with alot of punch!!!!
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Old 05-18-2010, 04:32 PM   #1088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroWD View Post
hi all,
i have been using big bearings for my front wheel hubs, just wondering what's the effects/impact if i were to use the wheel eccentric facing up or down?

how will it affect the car?
personally havent ran with the bigger bearings.... but with the eccentric, the nipple facing up gave me a lot more steering than with the nipple facing down, especially the initial turn in
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Old 05-19-2010, 06:37 AM   #1089
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Originally Posted by motojon View Post
personally havent ran with the bigger bearings.... but with the eccentric, the nipple facing up gave me a lot more steering than with the nipple facing down, especially the initial turn in
care to explain what's the theory or logic behind?
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Old 05-19-2010, 07:00 AM   #1090
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Lower axle position
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Old 05-19-2010, 07:25 AM   #1091
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Lower axle position
Like serpentdan said........ im not smart enough to tell u the theory of why it works, I just tried it and it made a big difference.
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Old 05-19-2010, 08:09 AM   #1092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtreme888 View Post
Already checked pressure plate and bell not bent...followed salven method, but after chatting to Mark Green at one of the national whom rebuilt my clutch it was working properly. He just tighten the spring to about 4 turns from clutch nut.shimmed from crankshaft 0.7mm with from crank to bell with small bearing added and then checked measurement with all big bearing,spacer and small bearing. finall taken out end play with shims under thrust nut...............place car on track and it went with alot of punch!!!!
with thrust nut, you mean the last screw (with thrust bearing) which goes into your engines crankshaft after your finished building your clutch?

If so, there lies your fault.
I know pretty sure Mark did not set the end play by adding shims behind the thrust bearing (if I understand you correctly). If you do this, you get a very small gap, and this will result in a very slippery clutch after setting the spring tension....
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:27 AM   #1093
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It should give you more corner entry and mid corner steering. If I'm correct.
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Old 05-19-2010, 02:33 PM   #1094
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Originally Posted by M7H View Post
with thrust nut, you mean the last screw (with thrust bearing) which goes into your engines crankshaft after your finished building your clutch?

If so, there lies your fault.
I know pretty sure Mark did not set the end play by adding shims behind the thrust bearing (if I understand you correctly). If you do this, you get a very small gap, and this will result in a very slippery clutch after setting the spring tension....
Hi.. maybe my wording not that good but it is s similar to the way that of capricorn clutch setup. Apparently here in uk national alot of A finalist are setting up this way with serpent,mugen,motonica etc
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Old 06-07-2010, 09:14 PM   #1095
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What tools would i need to build/maintenance the 966?

.PDF Page 3
Apply graphite grease (GR), threadlock (TL), CA
glue (CA) or One-way Lube (OW). (Items not
included.)

Now trying to get into the sport

For some reason serpent didn't put a tools need to construct kit in the manual
i downloaded it from there wedsite and so far i have guessed on .PDF page 42 FASTENING MATERIALS
2.5mm/3mm/4mm/5mm/Hex Drivers
3.5mm Phillips Head
2.5mm Flat head
909597Centax gap-tool alu (I ordered the one from xceed)

any thing else???
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