shanwright

iTrader: (25)

Humm. to stop the end float shim your inner bearings to reduce end float to 0.1

I think this is proof that Mugen could spend a bit more time with supporting information in the manauls. Don't get me wrong i love the car but this information should be in the manual from the start.

Steve

TomB

iTrader: (10)

Roelof. Build the clutch so that the .4 or .5mm gap is between the shoe and the bell. leave 0.05 .1mm endplay only. with the bearings and all inserted put bell on, then keep adding shims on the inside until the bell is just clear of rubbing on the shoe. then add .4mm of shims to produce the .4mm gap between the shoe and the bell. Tighten the screw down on the pilot shaft then measure the end play with feelers.

According to Peitch, his suggestion is to add enough shims behind the flywheel collet so that you then have only .1mm enplay. I'm guessing Peitch suggests this so as to avoid variance in the endplay when the components heat up and expand.

great product, but very little info. They need to take a leaf from Xray's book of information disemination and marketing.

Roelof

I know, but still there are people who do not understand the difference or even the terms of gap and endplay. I know many people are running more endplay which is not worse for the working and performance but it does give a shorter live on the thrust bearing.

I run 2 types of setup. When running with a thrustbearing I use a very small wavespring as a shim on the inside which is giving zero endplay but due the spring function there is enough room for the clutchbell to expand. The other setup is using a ball-less thrustbearing where a large endplay is no issue.

Bishop

iTrader: (5)

Not quite, I believe he is saying to shim behind the flywheel to get the gear mesh as full as possible, and to reduce the amount of shims needed to get your clutch gap to bare minimum, possibly cause using lots of shims to get your clutch gap seems to create drifting settings.

I always near enough try to aim for zero end float, but then I aim for that with a stone cold engine, cause I have always found the end float increases .1-.2 once the engine heats up.

greg.dawn

if you get shims right bell stays still and bearings last a lot longer ex/ thrust bearings have been doing it like that since bailey raced mtx2 ///ha
put 4 year old acer in to day brake/throttle now work again out of old 4r put $5 in old 4r
greg

Seisick

yep, do the same here, almost no endplay at the end, with heat it adds up and the bell spins freely

btw, FOR THOSE WHO USE PICCO BASED ENGINES, there are two solutions to assemble,
to dremel the collect that comes on the engine on the tip for about 0.3mm or to use
a shim which is 8.7mm x 9.5mm x 0.5which is hard to find, what i did find is that with the picco collect portrudes on the flywheel and wont let the clutch rest on the flywheel, hence the shim to be used between the flywheel and the nut

and i must say the carb is a pain to assemble, it must being at an angle otherwise itll hit the fuel tank, and had to use a bushing on the servo horn so the link works flat.
at the end nothing a little extra work but no issues at all

CanyonCarverR1

iTrader: (13)

Do you have a link to a shop that ships to the US?
Cheers!

Bishop

iTrader: (5)

While Japan does sell some things cheaper, kits is not one of them, you would likely get a better deal waiting for it to hit US retailers, but I suppose it depends on just how badly you want the new model, do a net search for futaba pro shop if your really keen, though they don't have an online shop in english either.

choisan

iTrader: (6)

Simply send an email to pro futaba, they will reply and be able to get what you want. Promising and fast delivery. It never fails me for the past 8 yrs. I have been recommending and never seen any wrong so far from here.

greg.dawn

i did not want to put non mugen parts in diff but we used km set for 5 but they have exploded to day at sunny coast they proved to be aluminium or whatever so we will have to get proper ones ///steel gen ones just as well now and not easter
greg

greg.dawn

as usual i am only one winging about buggered savox zevo 3 months old but it is my fault it all ways is i got up in the morning and now all bits on com including spell check have gone god knows where
greg
harry i got it back tool bar////

TomB

iTrader: (10)

lol i feel for ya man. You've had nothing but trouble I hope that reading your posts doesn't jinx me when i hit the track in two weeks

i just weighed my car fully built. stock parts. two low profile servos, 20 grams extra on the servo side, lipo, spectrum micro reciever, novak regulator, murnan m3 with 2660 pipe and 6 fin header and contact black rims trued with 1mm foam...with body and internal body stiffener...1710 grams.

car hits 1725 with a full size throttle servo. There wasn't any real point for me changing the throttle servo except i was bored this arvo.

Serpent 733 racers eat your heavy heart out

djiewie

Thats real good for a stock built kit. Mine does aproxx 1595 gr. with lightweight parts. I put 100 grams on the batt tray to get the weight up. But the new serpent 747 will be lighter this year.

greg.dawn

tomb//
the car is good except for chassis/and servo have fixed chassis just have to try stronger brace/i think old one will give more flex bailey is back from camp so will try it sat car is really good/fast he said is better than 4r on in field gears were probably my fault has not happen again/will put new chassis on when we have run new brace //diff that's what you get when you run non mugen parts//ha will put steel ones in soon any one will tell you i hate maintenance but when i work out what has to be done it will get done its no good pulling the dam thing apart if you don't know how to fix it//we are getting there thanks to jeff/trackside he has been great help with bailey/set up
greg
what are they supposed to weigh

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

I'm in the process of building my car. Can't wait to see the difference in performance compared to the 4r.