MTX 5
12-06-2011, 05:56 AM
#1456
MUGEN Release New Product for MTX-5
12-06-2011, 04:32 PM
#1457
12-06-2011, 11:33 PM
#1458
12-09-2011, 06:30 AM
#1459
that pin replacement tool looks exotic
but with that price id rather use super joint grease
on the pins and at the most, replace the drive shafts after
several seasons of racing,
btw rcmarket page still not fast enought but at least
not slow as before! guess the critics worked!!
but with that price id rather use super joint grease
on the pins and at the most, replace the drive shafts after
several seasons of racing,
btw rcmarket page still not fast enought but at least
not slow as before! guess the critics worked!!
12-09-2011, 07:17 AM
#1460
Tech Rookie
12-09-2011, 11:02 AM
#1461
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Landsborough, Queensland, Australia.
Posts: 2,142
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Kindest regards,
Lars.
12-09-2011, 12:34 PM
#1462
This tool removes the pins from cvd's and dogbones. After time the pins will develop flat spots on them from when they engage the outdrives from the diff and the wheel axle. Grease helps; but does not stop it completely.
I change mine about every 5 to 6 race days. I've found it can be easily done with a small vice and hammer.
Pass you soon...
I change mine about every 5 to 6 race days. I've found it can be easily done with a small vice and hammer.
Pass you soon...
Last edited by lil-bump; 12-09-2011 at 04:40 PM.
12-09-2011, 01:08 PM
#1463
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Landsborough, Queensland, Australia.
Posts: 2,142
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
This tool removes the pins from cvd's and dogbones. After time the pins will develop flat spots on them from when they engage the outdrives from the diff and the wheel axial. Grease helps; but does not stop it completely.
I change mine about every 5 to 6 race days. I've found it can be easily done with a small vice and hammer.
Pass you soon...
I change mine about every 5 to 6 race days. I've found it can be easily done with a small vice and hammer.
Pass you soon...
Kindest regards,
Lars.
12-09-2011, 04:03 PM
#1464
Pass you soon...
12-09-2011, 04:09 PM
#1465
Once you have a tool for replacing the driveshaft pins you wish you bought one sooner. 
Since the pins cost next to nothing I replace them very regularly which keeps the outdrives and wheel axles as new. Once you've driven too long with a set of worn out pins you will need to replace the outdrives and wheel axles as well since they will wear out. With worn out outdrives and wheel axles the dog bone or driveshaft will 'catch' and causes the suspension to bind up, which causes erratic handling of the car.
Since the pins cost next to nothing I replace them very regularly which keeps the outdrives and wheel axles as new. Once you've driven too long with a set of worn out pins you will need to replace the outdrives and wheel axles as well since they will wear out. With worn out outdrives and wheel axles the dog bone or driveshaft will 'catch' and causes the suspension to bind up, which causes erratic handling of the car.
12-09-2011, 04:33 PM
#1466
Once you have a tool for replacing the driveshaft pins you wish you bought one sooner.
Since the pins cost next to nothing I replace them very regularly which keeps the outdrives and wheel axles as new. Once you've driven too long with a set of worn out pins you will need to replace the outdrives and wheel axles as well since they will wear out. With worn out outdrives and wheel axles the dog bone or driveshaft will 'catch' and causes the suspension to bind up, which causes erratic handling of the car.
Since the pins cost next to nothing I replace them very regularly which keeps the outdrives and wheel axles as new. Once you've driven too long with a set of worn out pins you will need to replace the outdrives and wheel axles as well since they will wear out. With worn out outdrives and wheel axles the dog bone or driveshaft will 'catch' and causes the suspension to bind up, which causes erratic handling of the car.
12-09-2011, 04:50 PM
#1467
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Landsborough, Queensland, Australia.
Posts: 2,142
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
I have to disagree. If the dogbones are not bent or twisted. I have no problem replacing the pins. For the price of one pair of rear dogbones for the Cap C801 you can repair 20 to 25 used dogbones with new pins. But to each his own. But I do agree; there is an easy way to replace the pins without buying the tool.
Pass you soon...
Pass you soon...
Kindest regards,
Lars.
12-09-2011, 05:10 PM
#1468
Sorry I didn't make myself clear; I meant pins should be replaced when they show signs of wear, that's what I meant by inspecting them after each race day. We often replace pins, but it's also important to replace anything else that shows signs of wear or damage. Cleaning them and fresh grease prolongs the life of them significantly. Broken driveshafts are a common cause of failure, so it's important to maintain them as we obviously both agree to.
Kindest regards,
Lars.
Kindest regards,
Lars.
Pass you soon...
12-09-2011, 06:03 PM
#1469
I have to disagree. If the dogbones are not bent or twisted. I have no problem replacing the pins. For the price of one pair of rear dogbones for the Cap C801 you can repair 20 to 25 used dogbones with new pins. But to each his own. But I do agree; there is an easy way to replace the pins without buying the tool.
Pass you soon...
Pass you soon...
12-09-2011, 08:45 PM
#1470
Attachment 845667845674QUOTE=Seisick;10017889]Will you care to share how to replace wo the tool, hudy also makes one. I believe[/QUOTE]
Sure.. This is the quick and dirty
It not rocket science. I first start with a dogbone laying on top of my partially open vice. The vice should be open so that the dogbone body will rest on the top the jaws of the vice and the pins are protruding thru the vice but Not clamping the pins.
I then use a small brass hammer and drive the pin just before it is flush with the dogbone body. I have a front dogbone that was never installed on my car. I use this dogbone as punch since these pins are the same diameter of the pin I'm removing. I then use the front dogbone as a punch to drive the pin slightly past flush. I just want to drive the pin far enough so the new pin can be capture faily easy by the partially vacant hole. I then drive the new pin in as the old pin is drive thru the bottom of the dogbone. Only thing that is left is to insure the pin is centered in the dog bone.
I took some pics of different stages of the process. I have not ordered new pins yet; so I have no pics of the new pin being driven in.
.
Sure.. This is the quick and dirty
It not rocket science. I first start with a dogbone laying on top of my partially open vice. The vice should be open so that the dogbone body will rest on the top the jaws of the vice and the pins are protruding thru the vice but Not clamping the pins.
I then use a small brass hammer and drive the pin just before it is flush with the dogbone body. I have a front dogbone that was never installed on my car. I use this dogbone as punch since these pins are the same diameter of the pin I'm removing. I then use the front dogbone as a punch to drive the pin slightly past flush. I just want to drive the pin far enough so the new pin can be capture faily easy by the partially vacant hole. I then drive the new pin in as the old pin is drive thru the bottom of the dogbone. Only thing that is left is to insure the pin is centered in the dog bone.
I took some pics of different stages of the process. I have not ordered new pins yet; so I have no pics of the new pin being driven in.
.
Last edited by lil-bump; 12-09-2011 at 09:10 PM.
