Community
Wiki Posts
Search

MTX 5

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-11-2013, 11:39 PM
  #3001  
Tech Initiate
 
maver's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: prato,italy
Posts: 44
Default

Originally Posted by NITTO550
Anyone have any pics of how you mounted the low profile servos..?
Hello
I mount the Savox (1251 or 1252), but unfortunately I never took pictures on the assembly, even if it is the same as with normal ones.

this is a link to photos of my MTX5 on fb last Sunday

https://www.facebook.com/massimo.lor...01835474761532

bye.
maver is offline  
Old 11-24-2013, 02:58 PM
  #3002  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
 
mick8488's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 384
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default clutch adjustment

Hi Guys,

Just had a query about engine clutch adjustment on the MTX5. I normally wind it all the way in, then take it out 3/4 of a turn. I'm using the silver (super hard) spring. That's how I've done it for years now, but I'm realising that the clutch is engaging way too late. Obviously, I need it to still be punchy during racing, but also fire off the start line quickly. I'm just not getting that at the moment and I'm always playing catch up at the start because of how long the clutch takes to spool up. Any advice on proper clutch adjustment would be much appreciated. By how many turns out or mm is ideal?

Cheers,
Mick
mick8488 is offline  
Old 11-24-2013, 07:40 PM
  #3003  
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 768
Default

we find that the nut just needs to be down a bit and set end play if you over tighten //like on 4r it will not work //I know there is a way to set it up but jeff dose baileys when we are at titles and it is spot on //mutch better than my gess but I have never found out how to do it right// just trial and error with the washers will learn to do it wright one day
greg
greg.dawn is offline  
Old 11-24-2013, 11:40 PM
  #3004  
Tech Initiate
 
maver's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: prato,italy
Posts: 44
Default

Originally Posted by mick8488
Hi Guys,

Just had a query about engine clutch adjustment on the MTX5. I normally wind it all the way in, then take it out 3/4 of a turn. I'm using the silver (super hard) spring. That's how I've done it for years now, but I'm realising that the clutch is engaging way too late. Obviously, I need it to still be punchy during racing, but also fire off the start line quickly. I'm just not getting that at the moment and I'm always playing catch up at the start because of how long the clutch takes to spool up. Any advice on proper clutch adjustment would be much appreciated. By how many turns out or mm is ideal?

Cheers,
Mick
hello I do so '.
Novarossi engine, distance flywheel nut-> end shaft 9.0 / 9.1
silver spring:
spring nut 0.3 mm below the amount of the flywheel nut.
shims bell -> strain (strain run-in) normally 0.55 / 0.60 (0.20 plus since the bell rotates freely from the stump) final game between bell and mushroom 0.2 maximum.
to me so it goes' very well.
maver is offline  
Old 01-05-2014, 10:56 AM
  #3005  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 53
Default Help required

Hi Guys

I am having this problem that is effecting the car handling badly and I cannot solve the problem

I am truing the tires as follows but for some reason the front tires are not keeping the same level at race end but there is a 2mm differnce from the left to the right and we all know that they should be equal

Can you please advise if somebody noticed the problem and what is the solution because if have checked the car like 10 times and everything is perfect with no binding etc etc

This is how a true the tires for our track

Front Left Tire - 64mm
Front Right Tire - 62mm
Rear Left Tire - 66mm
Rear Right Tire - 64 mm

Also - I checked shocks, drop, ride height, ackerman, camber, plastics, aluminium etc etc

I am running 500,000 cst front diff and 80,000cst rear diff

PLEASE HELP ME
Teamcastagna is offline  
Old 01-06-2014, 05:57 PM
  #3006  
Tech Regular
 
NITTO550's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Philadelphia P.A.
Posts: 438
Default

I'm no pro, but explain why they have to be equal at the end of a long main.
NITTO550 is offline  
Old 01-06-2014, 09:03 PM
  #3007  
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 768
Default

we ran 42/ on front at nats/QLD and left front/42 was at least3mm small than right side/drivers and back were all over the shop depends on which way the corners go/fast/slow back were 5mm bigger than front /ended smaller by a fair bit
greg.dawn is offline  
Old 01-06-2014, 10:53 PM
  #3008  
Tech Elite
 
blis's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 3,478
Default

Originally Posted by Teamcastagna
Hi Guys

I am having this problem that is effecting the car handling badly and I cannot solve the problem

I am truing the tires as follows but for some reason the front tires are not keeping the same level at race end but there is a 2mm differnce from the left to the right and we all know that they should be equal

Can you please advise if somebody noticed the problem and what is the solution because if have checked the car like 10 times and everything is perfect with no binding etc etc

This is how a true the tires for our track

Front Left Tire - 64mm
Front Right Tire - 62mm
Rear Left Tire - 66mm
Rear Right Tire - 64 mm

Also - I checked shocks, drop, ride height, ackerman, camber, plastics, aluminium etc etc

I am running 500,000 cst front diff and 80,000cst rear diff

PLEASE HELP ME
Unless your track has a bridge to create a figure of 8 then one side of the car will wear more than the other. And in your case with the lefts wearing more, you run anti-clockwise I assume? Front to rear is the same, the force of the acceleration loads the rear wheels more, hence more wear.

Before attempting to balance the wear it might be better to check why they wear. The best tip given to us is to look under the shell. If there's a lot of foam, one can assume your car is wheel spinning and not gaining traction.
Also inspect the type of wear, outer or inner, perhaps there's too much roll and with a 64mm tyre, I find it hard its not chunked if there's so much wear.

It's tough with a foam spec car to maintain good suspension geometry, I recommend buying 5 sets at a time and working through them in cycles. It keeps my suspension geometry the same through each cycle of the tyre set. Later I true as many as I can to a smaller setup and get at least two good runs from each set, some even more.

You have 500,000 in the front, it's almost locked, it will be very aggressive during "on power" acceleration. If your rear end is loose, then power sliding can also increase wear. Finally, the track may be abrasive and it amplifies wear characteristics... Yes, sadly it can be a waste of good tyres...Unless you are having a good time doing it!!
blis is offline  
Old 01-06-2014, 11:38 PM
  #3009  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 53
Default

Originally Posted by blis
Unless your track has a bridge to create a figure of 8 then one side of the car will wear more than the other. And in your case with the lefts wearing more, you run anti-clockwise I assume? Front to rear is the same, the force of the acceleration loads the rear wheels more, hence more wear.

Before attempting to balance the wear it might be better to check why they wear. The best tip given to us is to look under the shell. If there's a lot of foam, one can assume your car is wheel spinning and not gaining traction.
Also inspect the type of wear, outer or inner, perhaps there's too much roll and with a 64mm tyre, I find it hard its not chunked if there's so much wear.

It's tough with a foam spec car to maintain good suspension geometry, I recommend buying 5 sets at a time and working through them in cycles. It keeps my suspension geometry the same through each cycle of the tyre set. Later I true as many as I can to a smaller setup and get at least two good runs from each set, some even more.

You have 500,000 in the front, it's almost locked, it will be very aggressive during "on power" acceleration. If your rear end is loose, then power sliding can also increase wear. Finally, the track may be abrasive and it amplifies wear characteristics... Yes, sadly it can be a waste of good tyres...Unless you are having a good time doing it!!
That is a very good explanation....I will do as advised..Many Thanks!!!
Teamcastagna is offline  
Old 01-25-2014, 11:28 PM
  #3010  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Athens Greece
Posts: 144
Default MTX6??

Hi Guys,

Let's give some life in this post.

The new chassys is coming very very soon....
tonyhalandri is offline  
Old 01-26-2014, 08:37 AM
  #3011  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Acting Bad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 122
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Where can I get a side brace for this MTX5?
Acting Bad is offline  
Old 01-26-2014, 09:39 AM
  #3012  
Tech Regular
 
NITTO550's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Philadelphia P.A.
Posts: 438
Default

Originally Posted by tonyhalandri
Hi Guys,

Let's give some life in this post.

The new chassys is coming very very soon....


That's great, I would of been happy to see a 4mm chassis
NITTO550 is offline  
Old 01-26-2014, 11:35 AM
  #3013  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Athens Greece
Posts: 144
Default

Originally Posted by NITTO550
That's great, I would of been happy to see a 4mm chassis
Let's see if this will be the answer we are waiting the last three years...
tonyhalandri is offline  
Old 01-26-2014, 06:20 PM
  #3014  
Tech Regular
 
NITTO550's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Philadelphia P.A.
Posts: 438
Default

I don't mean to complain or anything but if I had known that mugen would move at a snails pace to introduce new products that could possible help this car out,, I would have waited until they came with a revised version. Don't get me wrong , I love the car but if they don't fix their bubble gum soft chassis this year, I will have to move on to something else
NITTO550 is offline  
Old 01-27-2014, 07:56 AM
  #3015  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Athens Greece
Posts: 144
Default

Originally Posted by NITTO550
I don't mean to complain or anything but if I had known that mugen would move at a snails pace to introduce new products that could possible help this car out,, I would have waited until they came with a revised version. Don't get me wrong , I love the car but if they don't fix their bubble gum soft chassis this year, I will have to move on to something else
I understand your situation but I believe that the solution is very close ...
tonyhalandri is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.