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Old 05-20-2012, 01:25 PM
  #2086  
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image on this page: maver61.jimdo.com
here is the photo with the change of the clutch.
1 = no cutting, just see how it stands up.
2 = the point where I cut and see how the movement is freer.
I also appasantito the clutch shoes with holes in the beads.
hello
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Old 05-20-2012, 01:53 PM
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ahh I see, thanks a lot.
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Old 05-21-2012, 02:26 AM
  #2088  
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hi guys...

my mtx5 were a bit understeer and rite now i`m using 200k in front and 100k in rear..
front rollcentre high, rear middle.. any suggestions?
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Old 05-21-2012, 02:49 AM
  #2089  
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Originally Posted by Faiq-X4
hi guys...

my mtx5 were a bit understeer and rite now i`m using 200k in front and 100k in rear..
front rollcentre high, rear middle.. any suggestions?
Try softer oil ( 100k ) at front differential.
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Old 05-21-2012, 03:00 AM
  #2090  
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Originally Posted by Faiq-X4
hi guys...

my mtx5 were a bit understeer and rite now i`m using 200k in front and 100k in rear..
front rollcentre high, rear middle.. any suggestions?
May be some more setup info, there is more to steering than diffoil.
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Old 05-21-2012, 03:19 AM
  #2091  
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@Faiq-X4:

Try the 2 hole shock pistons in front. This will give more steering from the mechanical side. With 100k front diff oil I asume there will be too less pull on corner exit and the rear end will be not stable enough.
Also one question is, what body do you use? SRS-N is working awsome on the MTX-5 but has less steering then P37.

Regarding the gear stripping issue:
I have now around 5 Liters through and did not brake one single spur gear. I know the issue from the MTX-4 and since then I always mount the engine the way that the spurs and pinion bind a bit right in the beginning. After running the engine on the track for 2 or 3 lap the gears are running completely smooth and do not break. I am using the MTX-5 box stock and did not do any modifications to the two speed or to the clutch and last weekend was a race on am extremely bumpy track and everything was fine and flawless.

Cheers
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:49 PM
  #2092  
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Thanks guys...

my previous car are 4R and what i notice front stabilizer bar on my 5 is different feel. when i push up the right knuckle, left knuckle have not react as 4R. maybe its because too long stabilizer bar rather than 4R and for me it`s seems no function at all..i think that why mine were understeer...i already tried to lighten up front diff oil but yes, rear were not stable on corner exit..i`ll try to use 2 holes shock pistons and feel what is a different..

Also for me, i already run my 5 more than 4 liters for 2 races and no stripping gear issues. maybe because my experience from my previous car i guess and also no modifications...
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Old 05-22-2012, 01:55 AM
  #2093  
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some of the boys tried 2/holes and it was good till they went to sydney/easter and track was really gripe they had to go up to grey frount springs to get it to handle we used standard rear oil and 300000o in front and it handled just fine but track is really smooth
greg
good old blue springs keep an eye on pinion wear they will not last as long as 4r once they lose shape you will have troubell
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Old 05-26-2012, 06:27 AM
  #2094  
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Hi Guys, please, like to know if anybody have a problem with the chassis to MTX5.
My chassis bends between the plate and the engine running after 20min. Is this normal?
Thanks!
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Old 05-27-2012, 01:59 AM
  #2095  
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yes it is normal but like gear problem /diff chasse it is i'm told user prob we are all dum or so i am led to believe i have sent you message///but after all problems are fixed car is really good
greg
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Old 05-27-2012, 03:51 AM
  #2096  
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I actually sat down and made up a extension for the brake lever yesterday, I'm surprised by how much extra force can now be applied to the brakes with less movement of the chassis.

Also after trying Robs full EC setup last time out, I found it generates lots of turn and grip, but was hard to drive quickly towards the limit.
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:10 AM
  #2097  
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Originally Posted by Bishop
I actually sat down and made up a extension for the brake lever yesterday, I'm surprised by how much extra force can now be applied to the brakes with less movement of the chassis.

Also after trying Robs full EC setup last time out, I found it generates lots of turn and grip, but was hard to drive quickly towards the limit.
you may be more 'precise, or put a immaggine of that work on the lever?? Thank you.
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:25 AM
  #2098  
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I report my experience.
After many races with trial and error I can say that the problem of breaking second gear is the heat generated by friction.
my car is always of the box and I say this with evidence and rebuttal.
I had already posted the change to the clutch shoes and now tell you how to do the clutch as this weekend I had yet another proof.
strain again filed to run free inside the disk where the spring housing.
xray black spring, clutch assembly and run by the book of the package except for the strain away - bell, which measured the mushroom should be 0.6 - 0.7 mm (0.65).
The mushroom should be filed down a bit because the thrust bearing does not flow well.
with this clutch I have not broken the crown, whereas before I broke a clutch made ​​with the same engine as normal and never removed from the machine.
very technical track with repeated braking and changed a lot.
I hope I was helpful.
:-)
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Old 05-28-2012, 12:08 AM
  #2099  
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Originally Posted by Faiq-X4
hi guys...

my mtx5 were a bit understeer and rite now i`m using 200k in front and 100k in rear..
front rollcentre high, rear middle.. any suggestions?
Below are the changes (to box setup) that greatly improved steering in yesterdays race (race 1 of our national series). Due to unusually strong pollen season the track was quite slippery even though it had been treated. The "5" was superb in the semifinal and my son started in the final from 2nd position.
Front:
-2-hole pistons
-shock oil 600
-purple spring
-2,2 anti-roll bar
-upper hinge pin in highest position
-ackerman in the front setting
-toe out 1,5 on both sides
-added caster (1mm from rear to front)
-added camber (front tyres coning very sligthly)
-added split in ground clearance, rear higher than normal
(should have, but could not test front upright upper plate)

Rear:
-oil 450
-other rear settings stayed standard and untouched all day

-tyres 35/37
-body P37
-additional chassis weight off
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Old 05-28-2012, 01:42 AM
  #2100  
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hi is your track long/short twisty/bumpy ours has 1long/1 short straight rest is twisty 18 second /10 scale /lap i think it was a bit quicker when we had worlds 06 at brendale QLD/aus not many changes from standard set up and it is pretty good a bit bumpier than 06
greg
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