8th circiut temps
 

Hi guys, what temps do Novarossi motors like to run at? I run 8th on road, motors, NS21P, RX21, 35+, also temps for a GRP tuned? I want to push them a bit.

Cheers:cool:

I've seen anywhere from 190 to 330. Sorry I can't be more specific but it really does vary. Not only do different motors and different conditions result in different temps but different gauges give different readings. I just tune for performance and let it rock.

Tune for performance and let it rock:nod: thats what I like to hear. I just hope I dont rock my rod through my heatsink:) when do you do a rod change? Every two gallons, or do you feel for play?

when i ran novas plus 35 it ran always around 300-330 degrees farenheit sometimes even hotter i was never afraid to run them hotter.

It depends on the track. Motors I run on short, parking lot style tracks have gone their whole lives without ever changing a rod. A long track like 301 you need to change it after break in and then at least every two gallons, maybe more.

Thats good news, I run on a short tight track so I am safe on my rods, but do rods just go or do they give you some sort of warning before. I also have a JP eagle so I am safe on all Nova motors at 330. Going to lean the crap out of my motors the raceday. I will be more confident to do so with home brewed fuel. What motors do you guys run at the moment?

WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW 330 is a 165 degrees celcius!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! We running our motors under 100, 90 to be safe, how long do your liners last. Flip I am wasting my time. What are you testing with Exergen I take it.

Keep in mind Tommy does not have an engine budget:D.

Exergen's tend to read lower than the cheap ones. That's why I said they vary. 330 on a cheapo is like 290 on an exergen. I love it when a motor runs great at 190 but if it's sputtering around the track I lean it out.

Nova rods don't usually snap. Either they will start killing glow plugs because they are stretched or loose or a rod bushing will come apart (only if they are really old usually). Off course running it like that can kill the piston and head too.

My JP with a 2031, 3036 and 2052 exhaust runs about 100 to 115 degrees depending on the weather. With a 2013 pipe it is up to 130 degrees.

The hottest I had run and I do not want that is with a 3006 pipe (bad pipe!) and low tankpressure, it was running perfect on 146 degrees Celcius.

Ok what can I xpect to run on a 9886? I have a sirio, looks like a long pipe, take it its a torquey pipe? And are 2052 pipes good for tight tracks or should I stick with 9886 and 2013?

The 2013 can give a leaner bottom and indeed it gives more torque but with my JP the top RPM was a tiny bit limited wich was easy to correct with a tooth smaller gearing on the gearbox 2nd speed without loosing power.
Big advantage is you can reach with easy the 5 minutes.

The 2052 needs a more rich bottom where the lower temps and the shorter runtime comes from. It gives a lot of toque and also more RPM (for sure when using the short manifold), this pipe works very well on all kinds of engines exept Sirio but with taking away some pressure the Sirio runs better.

The 9886 is an older design exhaust made by Novarossi and I believe optimized for square stroke engines from that time. I have no experiences with it but can imagine the 2 chamber design will give less pressure in the tank as the 2013 does and could raise the temp a bit. Some people say that the 2000 series 3 chamber pipes are performing better than the old 2 chamber.

I can only say that you have to do some tests with different manifolds also to look for the right combination.

Thanks mate, I think I will have to play with pipes to ge the best option. To strange I prefered my 9886 pipe oe the 2052, it seemed to give a really good bottom. But for running the newer motors I am sure that the new 3 chamber pipes are the way to go. But for horse power it seems 2052 and short header are the answer.

I am still new to my 35plus21 but it runs like a raped ape at 230 to 250.My ninja is the same motor as a grp tuned and it likes to run anywhere from 260 to 280.

:nod: Every NOVA based engine that I have tuned gets "on-step" at 235 to 245 at the beginning of a tank, end of the tank you'll see 250-260. The engine will run very well here. If I tune it by eye, ears and mouth (HOLLY S@#T that thing is FAST) temps seem to start at 247-252 and at the end of the tank you'll see 26?-28?. Plug will look clean with a kinda shinny gray wire and a goldish looking color on the area exposed to combustion. 20% Byron Gen II stock head clearance Clarence.
NINJA / GRP gimmick. Keep drilling the flyweights and keep tightening the clutch spring. From the stand point of needle adjustment you'll find the L.S.N. almost hanging out of the slide and the H.S.N. buried in the holder when compared to the NOVA ROSSI. Seems to be very SENSITIVE to starting tank temp 249-254 finishing at 275-280. Will run well when you stand on the head shims (.22" on 30% # 7 plug).
When using a temp gun remember it's just a number to give to your pitt person so they don't help you smoke your stuff. Let the temp gun guide your eye's and ears so that you can learn to tune buy feel and not temp.
I sleep better at night knowing that my car has a NOVAROSSI in it...:D