OS that won't start?
#1
OS that won't start?
OK, I realize the only thing an engine needs is fuel and fire. Here's the problem. My CV-R with the 10C slide carb did not want to fire the other day. Using an OS#8 plug, Byron 20% nitro, and needle settings similar to when I ran the week before with similar weather (80% high, low humidity), it would start and spit fuel. After a few hard laps, bringing it in the engine didn't temp over 220, if that (often at 200-210). But if I cut it off, it didn't want to start. The car was cold, the plug was good, the charger was good, the starter box was fine, the engine wasn't flooded. But crank and crank, it didn't want to fire. When it started to, it made the sound like the engine was about to catch for 1/2 a second, then quit. Wait 5 seconds, it made the same sound and quit. When it finally caught, it sounded really slow and spat fuel for a while. Once it got started, it ran OK, no overheating. It was real hit or mis. Swapping plugs sometimes worked, even though they glowed bright with the ignitor. Any clues guys?
#2
Tech Fanatic
way to rich, run os. at around 245-265.
#3
Tech Fanatic
I have an os tr(p) same deal. Too rich on the low end needle.
G
G
#5
Tech Fanatic
O.S. should start rather easily. When the engine doesn't start when everything else is fine the try leaning out the low end a little (start from the starting point that the manual says) and then lean it out just a little like 1/4 to 1/2 and that should be cool. It's the high end that you can lean out more. In anycase, when your car is too rich, taking off the airfilter while starting it will help. Gives it more air and also unflood the carb and engine.
Gary
Gary
#6
Re: OS that won't start?
Originally posted by spenzalii
OK, I realize the only thing an engine needs is fuel and fire. Here's the problem. My CV-R with the 10C slide carb did not want to fire the other day. Using an OS#8 plug, Byron 20% nitro, and needle settings similar to when I ran the week before with similar weather (80% high, low humidity), it would start and spit fuel. After a few hard laps, bringing it in the engine didn't temp over 220, if that (often at 200-210). But if I cut it off, it didn't want to start. The car was cold, the plug was good, the charger was good, the starter box was fine, the engine wasn't flooded. But crank and crank, it didn't want to fire. When it started to, it made the sound like the engine was about to catch for 1/2 a second, then quit. Wait 5 seconds, it made the same sound and quit. When it finally caught, it sounded really slow and spat fuel for a while. Once it got started, it ran OK, no overheating. It was real hit or mis. Swapping plugs sometimes worked, even though they glowed bright with the ignitor. Any clues guys?
OK, I realize the only thing an engine needs is fuel and fire. Here's the problem. My CV-R with the 10C slide carb did not want to fire the other day. Using an OS#8 plug, Byron 20% nitro, and needle settings similar to when I ran the week before with similar weather (80% high, low humidity), it would start and spit fuel. After a few hard laps, bringing it in the engine didn't temp over 220, if that (often at 200-210). But if I cut it off, it didn't want to start. The car was cold, the plug was good, the charger was good, the starter box was fine, the engine wasn't flooded. But crank and crank, it didn't want to fire. When it started to, it made the sound like the engine was about to catch for 1/2 a second, then quit. Wait 5 seconds, it made the same sound and quit. When it finally caught, it sounded really slow and spat fuel for a while. Once it got started, it ran OK, no overheating. It was real hit or mis. Swapping plugs sometimes worked, even though they glowed bright with the ignitor. Any clues guys?
#7
Tech Addict
If I could piggy-back on this thread...
I have a cv-r and the main bearing is tired. It has sideways play and is leaking not a little.
I have two questions:
1. Is it worth doing a bearing replacement on the motor?
2. If so, how hard is it to do the replacement?
thanks.
I have a cv-r and the main bearing is tired. It has sideways play and is leaking not a little.
I have two questions:
1. Is it worth doing a bearing replacement on the motor?
2. If so, how hard is it to do the replacement?
thanks.
#8
Originally posted by Racin Rev
If I could piggy-back on this thread...
I have a cv-r and the main bearing is tired. It has sideways play and is leaking not a little.
I have two questions:
1. Is it worth doing a bearing replacement on the motor?
2. If so, how hard is it to do the replacement?
thanks.
If I could piggy-back on this thread...
I have a cv-r and the main bearing is tired. It has sideways play and is leaking not a little.
I have two questions:
1. Is it worth doing a bearing replacement on the motor?
2. If so, how hard is it to do the replacement?
thanks.
I had a seized motor bearing in a quite new motor which a replaced. I would highly recommend getting the correct tool for this (OFNA makes one), but you can get by with heating the block and bashing it in and out. I can guarantee you will not get it dead straight when getting it abck in without the tool tho.
#9
OK. I'll try leaning out the low end a bit. I haven't touched that needle since break in. It was the damndest thing with that engine. MOst of the time, even when it did start that say, one tap of the box and it fired up and ran, but ran cool. When it didn't start, the car was cool and I made sure it wasn't flooded. But it did start like it was very rich.
Any clue what would cause the plug to blow? One blew out the other day, and it definately wasn't running lean...
Any clue what would cause the plug to blow? One blew out the other day, and it definately wasn't running lean...
#10
Tech Fanatic
Your glow plug went because the setting was too rich and you were trying to pump the engine to much when it's not starting.
Gary
Gary
#12
Tech Addict
i would say recheck your settings..it sounds rich..i have a cvr and it cranks very easily every time