memphismedic

Just got NTC3from a friend. I have no intention of racing. need advice on improving the handling.
Has an OS 15cv.
Gear ratio of: 1st gear 5.65, 2nd gear 4.44
Camber - front 2 degrees in, rear 3 degrees in.
Slight toe-in on rear, slight toe-out on front.
Has a strong steering servo and will not steer for crap.
19.5lb shock in rear, 25lb in front.
I run it on local streets and have no clue what kind of tires to put on it.

Any tips for making it actually handle like a car NOT on an oil slick would be great.

Thanks.

cdub1

its hard to tell exactly what your car is doing but try adding a little more rear toe and mount some foam tires(maybe 37sh) and see how that does- should be good enough for bashing!

lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

I agree take a look at your tires. I would mount 37-40 shore tires. Also make sure the fronts are 26mm and the rears are 30mm wide. If you mount rear tires on the front it handles like poop.

memphismedic

Do you have any thoughts on rubber tires?
Should I change my springs?

thank you

lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

Rubber tires will last longer but will have less traction than foam tires. I would run red springs or maybe copper fronts and red rears for foam tires.


Pass you soon...

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

I would try changing the springs......If you get the car to roll, you will have more traction...I would also try rubber tires, they will have more traction than a foam tire designed for "treated for traction" race courses...

tires and springs are 2 of the biggest things you can do to a race car, that have the most effect....

since you have the foams already, try the springs first.....put 40 weight shock oil in, and set the car up with the standard foam or rubber tire "set up" that is in the Tc3 manual....


order the xxxmain tuning guide from tower hobbies

sook

Actually, if you are just bashing, I would not mess with changing the springs on it at all. Make sure that all your shocks have good travel and that the suspension is not binding. You could also turn all your pivot balls on the front wheels in as far as you can and then screw out a couple of turns on the bottom ball to add a slight negative camber. By making the front track smaller, it will increase your steering significantly. Then you can mess with tire choice if this does not work.

memphismedic

While under braking this thing does a complete 360.

any tips for that ?

sook

That just means that the front diff has been changed out to a front one-way. It takes a good race driving skill to control the car with very little to no braking for turns. If you have the standard gear diff that comes with the original kit, you will need to put it back into the front diff case for full braking capibilities.

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

Sook..

He already has negative camber.......There are two things wrong with this car......and the biggest isn't that it has no steering......the biggest is it handles like it's on an oil slick....which means it has NO traction, and if it has NO traction, it isn't gonna have NO steering, No rear traction, etc.....

So the first thing he has to do is get better tires for it, and change the set up as I advised, for those tires so he has a good baseline.....If that makes an improvement, then he can mess with the springs...As it is, he has harder springs on the front, which creates a push......


So here it is in order......put a ball diff in front...Change the shock oil to 40 weight( i think the manual is around that...)......make sure the shock shafts are equal length......decide on rubber tires and change the set up as stated in the manual.....( which will also entail the spring rates...).....

And as stated, I would run a rubber tire set up on the street.....

memphismedic

Made some changes to the car.

Put foam 37sh front and rear. 26mm front 30mm rear. (before i saw post about rubber.) oops, jump the gun on that one.
Replaced rear shock with 22lb shock.

re-verified camber, ride height, and toe-in/toe-out on front and rear.
Handling has dramatically improved. Still have issues turning.

What rubber tires would you recommend?
What spring setup?
Will rebuild diff front and rear.

Thank you
Fastharry and Sook (helping a lot here)

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

M.....did you get me PM?..

airtraficontr

tc3 is the best car out there go to factory team set up then learn how to drive

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

Check that the droop settings are the same left to right, and that they are a reasonable setting front to rear. this may not seems like a big thing, but it can have a huge effect on handling. not sure what the stock is, id go to rc10.com and check the stock setup and go with that. also check that the ride height is reasonable. 6-7mm should be fine for parking lot bashing.

foam tires will ALWAYS hook up better than rubber tires (unless its raining). stick with that you have. put a ball diff in the front of there isnt one already.

sook

Sorry Harry, you are correct in proceedure. I use to own and raced a few of these back in their days. Great cars, just not worthy on the diff side for long races with over powered engines.
Memphismedic, do as Harry suggested first. Also as Gee indicated, check your droop settings and make sure you get enough travel in your droop on these cars. Go with the stock setting. You can get the stock setup from the Associated site if you do not have the manual. I changed mine so much from the stock setting at the time to my racing specs that I had forgotten what the original was anymore. I gave up on these cars due to the soft differentials under true racing conditions. From what I do remember, I did have one notch greater in droop settings from original and changed the shock settings like an off road vehicle. I used a heavier oil and a lighter spring for the rough parking lot racing conditions. I also used premounted rubber tires during this time of year when the concrete temperatures were lower. I think I used 27's rubber all the way around with 30 weight oil and purple springs. I also used a high ride height setting.....somewhere around 7 front and 7.5 rear.