alucard13

I got an RB V12 and I'm about ready to break it in. I went to the rbproducts.com web site and got the factory needle seeting to start. But here is my problem. The flywheel won't turn when i put it on the starter box and its getting stuck at the top. I put some after run oil in it to lube it up, but it doesnt work. I also went on thier (rb's) forums to see how they break it in and they are saying to run it full throttle while breaking it in. I always thought you should run it idle for a few tanks. When i asked if that was the correct way to start the break in, they said use the search feature, which isnt any help. There support isnt all that great and there forums are no help. I just had some simple questions since i dont want to ruin the engine before i get to race with it. I tried the search feature on there site but all the answers are vague and most people seem to be talking about a C12 engine. If anyone can let me know how they have broken in there rb engine i would appreciate it.


kev, if you see this, i've been trying to get you on AIM, but havent seen you this weekend.

opeldragon

These high performance engines are tight---just stick with it. Sometimes pre-heating the engine with a hairdryer may help the engine start more easily. If that doesn't work, try loosening the glowplug just a little---this lowers the compression of the engine just enough for it to start. Once it does, you can tighten it back up.

There are many ways to break in an engine. I usually just run my car slowly around for about 6 tanks of fuel slowly leaning the engine out after each tank. Also make sure you let the engine cool down completly between tanks and be carefull not to give too much throttle---1/2 is plenty. Oh, one other thing....try to get some heat in the engine--you want to break it in at a temperature of around 200F.

( The method you described about running the engine at full throttle is another way of breaking in an engine----they basically set the engine so rich that at full throttle the engine only runs 5mph anyways and in doing so allows alot of fuel to lubricate the engine during break in.)

I hope this helps

hooked_on

iTrader: (1)

alucard13:

Did this engine drop straight onto the standard mounts on the BMI Chassis? Also do you know if a Rody version of this engine will be available?

hooked_on

iTrader: (1)

Also,

Does anbody know the power out put on the V12 (#1700-000430)? Any how are these going to compare to the Novarossi NS12 Turbo?

StepPins

It's best to preheat the head/button with something like a heat gun to about 200 degrees. Make sure the engine is primed with fuel so when you bump start, it starts right up.
Also, it's best to break in at temps at or slightly above 200f deg during your first start up all the way to tuning for power.

Corse-R

The tightness for the first start is somewhat related with the amount of taper and (the tightness of the P/S which is good and bad. Some friends of mine had some problems starting their and needed of mine starter box for the first starts (forget those bulky and weight Gel-cell 12v batteries and change it for a pair of 7.2v Ni-Cd packs). With 14.4v and a pair of motors, shouldn't resist many engines (in fact, ever I started other problematic .12 and .21 engines - RB and Sirio mainly).

For the first tank, let idle on the starter box. When an engine is so tight, it needs temperature for expand the sleeve and remove almost all of this tightness, running ultra rich only can hamper the conrod and make the piston and sleeve suffer (don't scare for seeing 190 and 200ºF temps on idle - It needs that heat for the first tank). After, let cool to ambient temperature and start going into the track with a rich mixture (it shouldn't shift, or do it very late).

Take your time break-in those engines and you will be rewarded with a monster engine.

alucard13

You guys are GREAT! thanx for all the help. I was worried about the full throttle thing, but you shed light on it opeldragon. After you said that it made more sense to me. They didn't mention that on the rb site. Thanx opeldragon.

Hooked_on,
I had no problems dropping the engine into the BMI chassis using the mounts that came with my NTC3 kit. The only thing i dont have on is the rear brace that goes over the clutch bell. Its to thick and hits the clutch bell not allowing it to spin freely.

StepPins and Corse-R, thanx for your help as well. I will try out those suggestions the next time i get a free moment to break in the engine

TAZ K

YO DONT RUN IT FULL THROTTLE!! idle a couple of tanks and then drive it quarter throttle 4 another 4 tanks then u can lean it out about 1/8th of turn. then run it half 2 three quarter throttle 4 another 4 tanks and ur done!