Originally posted by alucard13
I got an RB V12 and I'm about ready to break it in. I went to the rbproducts.com web site and got the factory needle seeting to start. But here is my problem. The flywheel won't turn when i put it on the starter box and its getting stuck at the top. I put some after run oil in it to lube it up, but it doesnt work. I also went on thier (rb's) forums to see how they break it in and they are saying to run it full throttle while breaking it in. I always thought you should run it idle for a few tanks.
The tightness for the first start is somewhat related with the amount of taper and (the tightness of the P/S which is good and bad. Some friends of mine had some problems starting their and needed of mine starter box for the first starts (forget those bulky and weight Gel-cell 12v batteries and change it for a pair of 7.2v Ni-Cd packs). With 14.4v and a pair of motors, shouldn't resist many engines (in fact, ever I started other problematic .12 and .21 engines - RB and Sirio mainly).
For the first tank, let idle on the starter box. When an engine is so tight, it needs temperature for expand the sleeve and remove almost all of this tightness, running ultra rich only can hamper the conrod and make the piston and sleeve suffer (don't scare for seeing 190 and 200ºF temps on idle - It needs that heat for the first tank). After, let cool to ambient temperature and start going into the track with a rich mixture (it shouldn't shift, or do it very late).
Take your time break-in those engines and you will be rewarded with a monster engine.