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Old 04-07-2007, 07:30 AM
  #9046  
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hi guys...I'm thinking of running me tc3 nitro this year as well as my r40.....I have the v2 kit for the rear....

one,how does that improve the handling?.....and two,since I won't be able to run the fix,is there still an issue with the screws loosening in V2?......I'd like to know before I even spend the time digging everything out of storage...thanks
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Old 04-07-2007, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by fastharry
hi guys...I'm thinking of running me tc3 nitro this year as well as my r40.....I have the v2 kit for the rear....

one,how does that improve the handling?.....and two,since I won't be able to run the fix,is there still an issue with the screws loosening in V2?......I'd like to know before I even spend the time digging everything out of storage...thanks
V2 kit stops to toe problem but without the/a "fix" you will have the same issues as before. Check some posts you can make your ouwn fix for a couple bucks with some stanoffs and bolts, don't waste $20 on the fix.

I loved my NTC3 except for being so fragile--I have run the MTX-3 last two years and only have broken a couple of uprights--the car is a tuff as nails.
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Old 04-07-2007, 11:32 AM
  #9048  
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believe it or not,I never had issues with the toe.......does the new V2 add anything to handling?...
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Old 04-07-2007, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by fastharry
believe it or not,I never had issues with the toe.......does the new V2 add anything to handling?...


The V2 allows roll center adjustments on the rear uprights.
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Old 04-07-2007, 05:44 PM
  #9050  
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Originally Posted by fastharry
believe it or not,I never had issues with the toe.......does the new V2 add anything to handling?...
Fastharry:

You still need to run "The Fix" up front... V2 rear end gives more rear camber change for those running on foams.

Mine is still a work in progress... so i can't comment anymore then this

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Old 04-07-2007, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear
Fastharry:

You still need to run "The Fix" up front... V2 rear end gives more rear camber change for those running on foams.

Mine is still a work in progress... so i can't comment anymore then this

BB
I've been looking for "THE FIX"for my car, and can not find it.

Do you know where, I can buy one?

THX,
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Old 04-07-2007, 07:32 PM
  #9052  
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Originally Posted by nteec3
u right for now makes sense ( now). any of u can tell me why i dont see any ntc3s at big races that makes it to the mains? even rick and many people say that with a good set up ntc3s are competitive.
I dont believe the ntc3 is competitive with the current crop of belt drive cars.
I still have 2 ft ntc3's, been running them for 4 years. In january I picked up a 720. Night and day difference in corner speed. I always new the AE. was fragile. And haveing the fuel tank off center of the chassis was a dumb way to design car. And the header lenght, a good way to hurt a .12's performance. There was a time when it was competitive but that was years ago.
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Old 04-07-2007, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by bhambrent
I've been looking for "THE FIX"for my car, and can not find it.

Do you know where, I can buy one?

THX,
Not sure... I don't think BMI are making them anymore. I have had a set in my cupboard for many years that i have installed onto my NTC3.

BB
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Old 04-07-2007, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by wizby
I dont believe the ntc3 is competitive with the current crop of belt drive cars.
I still have 2 ft ntc3's, been running them for 4 years. In january I picked up a 720. Night and day difference in corner speed. I always new the AE. was fragile. And haveing the fuel tank off center of the chassis was a dumb way to design car. And the header lenght, a good way to hurt a .12's performance. There was a time when it was competitive but that was years ago.


OUCH!!!!!
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Old 04-07-2007, 10:43 PM
  #9055  
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I was wondering if that would upset anyone!!! I was once a die hard AE driver. But the car is an antique. I have sold one to a friend and the other is now a drag car. I think in bracket racing it can be quite successfull. Tighten down the diffs all the way,remove the sway bars and cut the rears 1mm smaller than the fronts. 7 port outlaw moded .12 motor
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Old 04-08-2007, 05:06 AM
  #9056  
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didn't upset me.....I remember racing a 250 foot course at middlesex count college in 2004....I race 5 months in the BARCAR series...the track was huge(set up for 1/8th),yet it was tight on the inside,a nice track.....I could never get the car through the flowing infield as fas as a 710 or mtx 3,no matter what I did opr how I adjusted the diffs.....Thats what I went to the r40..more steering,less tweaking......

but our tues night racing is on a private lot,100 by 125 with road rail....so i thought I'd run the tc3 as a second car if the r40 gaive s me fits...why let the tc3 go to waste...

Last edited by fastharry™; 04-08-2007 at 10:45 AM.
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Old 04-08-2007, 10:43 AM
  #9057  
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any thoughts about a new ntc car from ae. i think it should be time for a new one ??????
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Old 04-08-2007, 05:28 PM
  #9058  
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I think AE should make a strickly race touring car,for serious racers. not something for everybody ie;(beginners or an RTR base),something like a mugen or serpeant; all or nothing! I still race the ntc3, love the light weight and super efficient drive shaft;torque steering? Maybe belts but something
serious!
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Old 04-08-2007, 08:30 PM
  #9059  
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I don't see AE coming out with a exotic nitro touring car. Their market is mainly RTR. When Thunder Tiger bought them out probally 90% of the parts are now made by thunder tiger which deals in mast producing parts. So I don't see AE matching the quality of a Mugen,Serpent,Xray or Kyosho who's market is smaller but strickly racing. But you never know the TC-5 is attracting attention. I still love AE products
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Old 04-08-2007, 08:45 PM
  #9060  
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I had an awesome day at the track with my 3 year old RTR NTC3....

I got 2nd in the first round of qualifying and won rounds 2 and 3. TQ for the day with a 3rd in the A-main which could have been a second had I been .2 seconds faster....

My car is an RTR with the FT shocks and gearing. Imagine the looks I get when I use the pull starter to get it going just before the A-main...



Regarding THE FIX, I use two very long screws, 2 shock bushings and screw the shock tower down into the diff housing. So far, so good.
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