Rc10ntc3
#9241
I know that it takes side exhaust engines but do they sell headers to be able to run rear exhaust engines too? Does it take engines with standard cranks, short cranks, or sg cranks. Does the FT version come with slide carb linkage so that I could run a slide carb engine. I know that the RTR version comes with a rotary carb engine. Could I put a .18 engine in it with a short crank, slide carb, and side exhaust? The one I am buying will need a new engine soon so I saw some engines for sale online pretty cheap and am just trying to find which one I need. Sorry for all the questions, I am new to onroad.
SG crank i believe
The servo arm for the throttle can be used as either a slide or a rotary carb just have to change what ear the linkage is on.
#9242
i recently found a three shoe clutch flywheel in my spare parts bin and was thinking about using it. Does this use the normal ntc3 clutch shoes or another shoe that AE sells?
#9243
i recently found a three shoe clutch flywheel in my spare parts bin and was thinking about using it. Does this use the normal ntc3 clutch shoes or another shoe that AE sells?
#9244
If you have three shoes, and three springs, it'll work.
Last edited by Baedarlboo; 07-05-2008 at 09:41 AM.
#9246
I have been looking for this page for awhile.
#9247
whats a good throttle servo to get?
#9248
don't worry too much about the throttle servo. Steering servo you want a decent servo. Other then that, stock up on parts, like diff/pinion gears, arms, ect ect.
great car to start with, just a little too brittle.
great car to start with, just a little too brittle.
#9249
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (3)
DX3R transmitter has a selectable latency setting, 5.5 ms for digital and 16 ms for analog, it only made sense, FOR ME, to change to Futaba's high torque, high speed digital servos, an older (out of my T2007) s9451 (120 oz/in .10 sec) for my steering and a new s9452 (128 oz/in .11 sec) for the throttle brake. $80 for the s9452 from my LHS was just in my budget! So Yodace, in answer to you question, it all depends on what demands you are placing on the car and on your budget! HTH
Dave
#9250
LHS on road track bought road rails this year they seem pretty cool, we have few broken parts...
#9251
I started racing my NTC3 for the first time this summer, it had an anolog metal gear steering servo that had 85 oz/in of torque in .15 sec, from what i read on this site its a little slow with the minimum torque needed for steering. the throttle/brake servo, again anolog, had just 49 oz inches of torque in .19 sec, smoked it under braking, at the end of a 170 ft straight into a hairpin! some how i dont think it had the torque necessary to apply the brakes and decelerate the car as it is capable of. since my new spektrum
DX3R transmitter has a selectable latency setting, 5.5 ms for digital and 16 ms for analog, it only made sense, FOR ME, to change to Futaba's high torque, high speed digital servos, an older (out of my T2007) s9451 (120 oz/in .10 sec) for my steering and a new s9452 (128 oz/in .11 sec) for the throttle brake. $80 for the s9452 from my LHS was just in my budget! So Yodace, in answer to you question, it all depends on what demands you are placing on the car and on your budget! HTH
Dave
DX3R transmitter has a selectable latency setting, 5.5 ms for digital and 16 ms for analog, it only made sense, FOR ME, to change to Futaba's high torque, high speed digital servos, an older (out of my T2007) s9451 (120 oz/in .10 sec) for my steering and a new s9452 (128 oz/in .11 sec) for the throttle brake. $80 for the s9452 from my LHS was just in my budget! So Yodace, in answer to you question, it all depends on what demands you are placing on the car and on your budget! HTH
Dave
#9252
Thats cool, i had to move on from the ntc3 due to having too many "consumable" parts...like the Diff/pinion gears, any modern motor with a decent amount of power will destroy the gears like it's butter. The pillow balls had a too small of a diameter on the threads which made them bend easy if you used steel, and snap if you used titanium. The plastic or carbon parts were way too brittle and busted with the slightest rub or hit from another car. And the most frustrating were the sloppy steering and that you are so limited on pipe selection due to the layout. Car also used a very wide chassis with short arms which meant you have to have a lot of meat on the tires and have a decent ride hight, or the outer edge of the chassis scrubbed in turns as the tire wears down. I know i'm pointing out a lot of it's bad traits, but those were big issues when I was racing them. It's a great car, but you have to remember that the TC3 was an electric car first by design, and later they changed a few things here and there so you can strap a nitro motor to it.
#9253
I researched the other nitro cars the price was the deciding factor. really like the mugen and the xray?
#9254
I can't argue with price point...but after the amount of money i spent to get it race worthy, it ended up costing about what a mugen would have been. So I sold all my ntc3 stuff, and bought a used Mugen MTX4R. I've ran the hell out of the car for the past couple months....and i've broke nothing, and wore out nothing. I'm really not trying to put the NTC3 down, as i've had fun racing it, I'm just letting you know my experiences. The great thing about the NTC3 though, you could stop by ANY hobby shop, and find all the parts you need. That is one thing I miss...
#9255
what mods did u do to make it more race worthy? Did u take the front one way out?