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Old 01-03-2005, 06:03 AM   #7426
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Default Re: Re: My project has finished

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Originally posted by ntc3freak
what have u done to the car?i can't see anything really unusual.
nothing really just proud of owning like all of you NTC3 owners thats all. Sorry if its not worthy
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Old 01-03-2005, 06:10 AM   #7427
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ooo.u should be proud like all we ntc3 owner do.nice car also
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Old 01-04-2005, 07:17 PM   #7428
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Default Re: Spool set up

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Originally posted by FUK_WRX
Has anyone tried a solid front sxle in the NTC3 yet? Can someone share there experience with it. How did the car react? And what sort of track was it run on big or small? And might as well share your setup
I havent tried one but can relay one overall comment that I`ve read on solid front axles, and thats the serious wear and tear they`ll place on the drivetrain......I`m not too sure how long the CVD`s on the NTC3 would last running a spool.
BTW, nice build on the NTC3
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Old 01-04-2005, 08:48 PM   #7429
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With a spool in front the car is the fastest thing I have ever seen on a short track., for the way we drive. I've tried it ever way with blue Ae cvds (no life) with MIP shiny cvds,( better life, but still spun at least one cvd out of it or stripped pinion in a weekend of racing), RTR cvds/IRR Gang Big Dawgs, never twisted them but still ripped ring/pinion out of the car, but.... using etc3 hand modded diff, the ring and pinion lasted much longer than stock stuff. The diff material can't handle solid diffs nor will it handle oneways on short track for long periods of time ( 4 heats of 5 min without service is about tops!. I have the car bullett proof!! except with high HP engines ! No matter what I do! If the front lives a few heats then it strips the rear or vice versus.
Brass or bronze ring and pinion anyone???
I have the molds for them, I will experiment with them the beginning of this season to see if they will last.
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Old 01-05-2005, 01:14 AM   #7430
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hi bbntc3. whats your definition of high HP engines. i run my nitro tc3 with a v12, blue ae cvds and a standard front diff and have had no problems.
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Old 01-05-2005, 08:16 PM   #7431
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I`m also running an RB V12, but with a front one-way.
I`ve found the CVD`s have been quite durable using this combination....usually every month or so they wind up slightly bent so I just pop them in the bench vice, restraighten them and theyre ready to go again.
The rear CVD`s havent needed any straightening at all
Cheers
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Old 01-05-2005, 08:44 PM   #7432
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I use Richey mugens with TOP GUN777 BRB piston and sleeves and special induction timing for short and long tracks.

I have sleeves/piston/rod and crank combos for long and short tracks. I have 2 cranks and 2 sleeve kits for each engines depending on where we race depends on whick combo we use. I also have 2 Richie Sirios modded that flat out are the fastest thing on short tracks I have ever used.. I'm not much on what you guys call high end engines, even though its a good engine and make good power all my mods make much more power!. When we first started racing a friend hooked me up with Dennis Richie and his hand mods makes some of the best power I have ever seen!! So stock Rex/RB's and Novas, won't touch these mods. I understand you can have too much HP but damn it's nice and addicting!!!! Once your hooked theres no going back.
I like RB engines I have a RBX12 Turbo 5port and a RB C12 side exhaust engine, that's the only thing I got stock and I have 9 engines, for our onroad GT truck and the NTC3. With these engines I can not keep the drive line in the car it either twist the cvds out or it stripps ring and pinions. If I leave the ball diffs in the car the gears and cvds live, but when we try oneways or solid spools its dead!..
Anybody no how to compress pic files to get them posted here, I bought a new cam. and I can not get the pics to load. I have built one hell of a GT onroad truck this winter, this thing has the best of the best on it!! I'd love to get some pics here of it and the new modds onthe NTC3 .
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Old 01-06-2005, 06:58 PM   #7433
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BBNTC....
Most imaging programs should allow you to compress the file you wish to post online.
Basically, you just adjust the pic to your liking in the imaging program youre using (cropping/color adjusting etc)......then the compression of the pic is usually asked for by the imaging program prior to you saving the file.....
For example, as you go to save the file, a popup box will usually appear and ask for a percentage to be entered for compression....the lower a number you enter, the more compression (and subsequent reduction in file size & pic quality) you`ll get.
Usually i find around the 50% mark is good compression for posting pics taken with my 3.3 megapixel camera at full res.
Hope this helps a bit....
Cheers
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Old 01-06-2005, 11:30 PM   #7434
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Thanks Andy T, I'll mess with pics tomorrow, too hammered tonight! ,
I also forgot to add on the last post ... we use the lowest gearing you can use in the NTC3 on short tracks, with Richie and Topgun 777 engine work, its harder to get the NTC3 drivetrain to live... with anymore than a 4 tooth split in gearing, (20/54-/24/50) . The drive train is a weak link in the car to me, but... it has to be! All the load is where? Belt cars have what, 2 or 3 belt systems to exsorb energy? You just have to figure out a happy medium with the NTC3 (what wiill live and what won't with your driving style) compromise.
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Old 01-07-2005, 02:12 AM   #7435
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Quote:
Originally posted by AndyT
I`m also running an RB V12, but with a front one-way.
I`ve found the CVD`s have been quite durable using this combination....usually every month or so they wind up slightly bent so I just pop them in the bench vice, restraighten them and theyre ready to go again.
The rear CVD`s havent needed any straightening at all
Cheers
Do you find it effective on mid-big tracks? Thanks for the comments
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Old 01-07-2005, 06:15 AM   #7436
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What durable universal drive shaft do u recommend for NTC3? I will replace the NTC3 CVD. I hate dealing with pins and set screws of CVD (never know when they will fly out)
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Old 01-07-2005, 08:57 AM   #7437
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Really? wow. I just use a dab of locktite (as per instructions) and have NEVER had one work lose.
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Old 01-07-2005, 02:15 PM   #7438
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by raceblast
What durable universal drive shaft do u recommend for NTC3? I will replace the NTC3 CVD. I hate dealing with pins and set screws of CVD (never know when they will fly out)
i think the IRS big dawgs are the go, i am planning to replace mine with these units.
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Old 01-07-2005, 07:05 PM   #7439
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Quote:
Originally posted by FUK_WRX
Do you find it effective on mid-big tracks? Thanks for the comments
I find the one major benefit I`m getting out of running the front one-way is the awesome turn-in it allows when off power.
Its very handy for Eastern Creek.......lets you really fly through the fast left-hander at the end of the main straight.......i also find it to be really good around Moorebank.
Having said that........the bummer with the front one-way is the loss of braking to the front wheels....it takes a bit of practice and experimenting with the radio setup (if your particular radio allows it) to get the car to stop in a straight line without ending up facing in the opposite direction
When marshalling races and being close to the track, it appears to me that the seriously quick guys are using front diffs or spools.....their cars really do decelerate big time, they really shed their speed so well....perhaps they just have their one-ways dialled in super- well??
Cheers
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Old 01-07-2005, 07:08 PM   #7440
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
Really? wow. I just use a dab of locktite (as per instructions) and have NEVER had one work lose.
Agreed Boomer......I use the Z-71 Pacer threadlocker and have never had one work loose either.
Cheers
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