FUK_WRX

iTrader: (1)

I cant use V2 rear end cause im using the k factory shock towers

bbntc3

Pitbox the K-factory rear tower and save it for the front, Buy the V2. If money and looks are the issue than buy the K-factory rear hub kit, its much better than the stock stuff.

mxs

JapTC3,

can you post a pic of a cut clutch shoe. The one where you are suggesting the outside and inside cut for quickest grab.

Also, anyone figured out the cheapest place to get the yoko centax?

Thanks

Rich Panganiban

iTrader: (72)

mxs, I know Ultimate Hobbies in Orange, CA is 25% off all their Yokomo parts. I'm not sure if they stock the centax for the NTC3.

mxs

I did a search on their web site, but couldn't find the yoko centax. Also I am not sure whether they would ship to Canada.

But thanks for your info.

RCNitroDude999

iTrader: (26)

I know this isnt the right place to post this, but I recently had a bad wreck with my ntc3...so I need parts asap. Right now Im looking for a graphite radio plate with mounts. Email me if you have one you wanna get rid of.

[email protected]

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

try to email yokomo usa but they will charge full retail. try to get it through Ultimate hobbies or speedtechrc so you can get some kind of discount.

wayne

Hello all I have had a ntc3 rtr plus for about 3 months, and plan on racing it next year, it would appear from what I am reading in this thread that this car has strength issues thru the drivetrain yes/no

I was aware of the front diff housing problem before I bought the car, but if what I am interpreting from this thread is correct then this car in its standard form is not durable enough to race eg. "sliding wrecking rear" true/false

also it would appear that racing this car in its standard configuration is a bad idea (I have already replaced shocks getting threaded bodies anodized caps and unobtainium shafts) yes/no

trying to keep the car "genuine ae" is going to be more trouble than its worth yes/no

I think that this is a great car, handles well and seems durable although I havn't raced it much (or smashed it much)

I do know that jumping the car accidentally was a bad move, it messed it up pretty bad but its fixed now and I won't be doing that again

ttso

iTrader: (1)

Unless u hit something bad, otherwise drivetrain is strong enough to deal the works

Quote:

I was aware of the front diff housing problem before I bought the car, but if what I am interpreting from this thread is correct then this car in its standard form is not durable enough to race eg. "sliding wrecking rear" true/false

Get "The Fix" to reinforce front tower, that's basically all u need
(and you might like to use longer screw on some location to increase the strength

Quote:

also it would appear that racing this car in its standard configuration is a bad idea (I have already replaced shocks getting threaded bodies anodized caps and unobtainium shafts) yes/no

trying to keep the car "genuine ae" is going to be more trouble than its worth yes/no

RTR is not design for racing.

Quote:

I think that this is a great car, handles well and seems durable although I havn't raced it much (or smashed it much)

I do know that jumping the car accidentally was a bad move, it messed it up pretty bad but its fixed now and I won't be doing that again

If you wanna do racing, RTR is not the correct car to go with. NTC3 does have some weak places and outdate design. But with "The Fix" and Centax, I'm very happy with my NTC3 FK.

Rich Panganiban

iTrader: (72)

The ntc3 rtr is an excellent base platform to race on. It all depends on the type of track you race on. For example, if you race on a permanent track that has fixed boards (2x4's bolted to the ground), then expect to break some parts. It won't matter, too much, what brand car you're driving. If you race on a track that uses barriers that have a little give , then the wear and tear is much less.

As fas as the drivetrain is concerend, the tradeoff for that ultra efficient and fairly friction free driveline is a little bit of maintenance. The key to the NTC3 is maintenance, shimming the diffs and making sure the front bulk head cap and tower are tight after every run.

Wayne, I think the threaded shock bodies are an excellent upgrade to your NTC3 as well as maybe a variety of springs. Maybe a 2 speed if your track is large enough.

The stock clutch works great for 99% of the conditions. Barry Baker uses the stock clutch pretty much all the time!!!

As far as the V2 rear end, it does add to the durability for those who seem can't drive a tight enough line and "accidentally" slap the barrier upon exit from a corner (ttso ). For the more experienced racer, it offers a little more control of the roll center to help tune for different track conditions.

Don't listen to all the pessimistic jibberish that makes its way onto this thread from all the so-called experts. The original NTC3 is an excellent chassis for your racing efforts, sure there are other "hot" sedans out there, but two tenths of a second wouldn't help most of these guys who are in the "G" main anyways. Just kidding

ttso

iTrader: (1)

Hey.. I killed 4 "V2" rear hub, not "V1"...

Even NASCAR/F1 driver crash, sometimes...

Boomer

I raced mine HARD and continuously for two years before taking a break (not broken break. . . )

Wasn't an RTR, but was mostly stock.

Stock clutch works great - you can upgrade it but you don't really need a centax.

Threaded shock bodies are a great investment. As is a full spring set (allows you to adjust as needed)

TheFix is a LIFESAVER. If you still have the V1 rear end, you can use it there too. I don't have the V2 yet so I don't know why people are saying to only use it on the front. . .

Stock setup (as in, as the book says) is not going to race very well. Go to www.competitionx.com and find some decent setups to start with. . .

FUK_WRX

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys i want t get your opinion on what the best engine layout to buy, im really getting confused on diffrent NTC3 users opinions.

Some people say for the NTC3 the best engine layout would be a side exhuast becasue, the rear exhaust pipe has so much bends that you cannot take full advantage of the engines power!! And some people say that the side exhuast is better because the way the manifold bends is very simple!!

What are your opinions......

raceblast

I raced NTC3 in the past summer season. I saw RTR NTC3 racing with factory team NTC3 with NM, NR engine, and cars of other brands. Depending on how u tune the kit engine, your driving, the gearing, chassis setup, RTR NTC3 can be very competitive in small to medium size tracks. ( I was amazed to see how competitive the RTR was!)

In big track, use a better engine.

Rich Panganiban

iTrader: (72)

ttso wrote,
ttso, 4 v2 hubs...maybe you need to buy an 1/8 buggy for as much as you crash

Fuk_Wrx, That's true with regards to the exhaust manifold, but you won't find too many high performance side exhaust engines on the market. In all honesty, for the serious racer, you can't beat the rear exhaust setup even with the NTC3 configuration. Buy the rear exhaust engine, you won't be disappointed!