Solara

iTrader: (17)

.................AND use air compressor to blow all the metal stuff out from the header and pipe, otherwise, there will be chances those metal will got sucked into your new engine.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Well, I would not say it is PERFECT DIRECT FIT..........you have to shim your 2-speed a little in order to make the clearence of the Mugen Gears....Mugen pinion are a little thicker then NTC3, so, without shimming the 2-speed a little bit, the 2nd pinion gear of the centax will rub against the 1st spur gear of the NTC3's 2-speed.....don't forget, your centax clutch will get push FORWARD once it engaged, if not shimming the 1st spur gear correctly, the 2nd pinion on your centax will get pushed forward against the 1st spur gear....and you will (garantee) stripped your 54T spur....

If you have the right machine tools.........I know ppl shear/shaved like good 3-5mm off the 2nd pinion gear in order to get the clearence....if you can do it that way, then you don't have to shim the NTC3 2-speed.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Yes, it does....like you, I want to see how 22/29T has to do on the NTC3, and because NTC3 is a little shorter in gear ratio compare to S710 and MTX3, I thought the 22/29T will bring my NTC3 PAR with S710 or MTX3...


However, that is not the case....I tried my 22/29T last week, and found out it launch a bit slower (complare to 21T), and the top end......it takes forever to get to the top speed....our track has a 200 feet straight, that is very good long size of straight....but the 29T is kinda no use cause it won't get to the speed untill the end of the straight...

Then I switch back to 21/27T.........car has more PUNCH at the corner and launch, and the top speed is almost garantee THERE...

I think if you guys want to be a bit faster, try 21T/with 28T 2nd.....29T is a waste, and that also put a lot of LOAD onto the engine....since those spur are not cheap, like $12-13 a piece.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

See my above message.................you have to SHIM the 2-speed (the 1st spur gear and between the 1st and 2nd spur)
You can only use MUGEN 0.8 module pinion gears....no other gears will work (I don't think) and 1.0 won't work.

ttso

iTrader: (1)

I think there is one easier way: cut the crankshaft ring to make it thinner. I've same problem on fitting Picco XP 5ports with AE 3shoes clutch, the 2nd pinon is too close with 1st spur, and clutch housing sometime even touch with 2nd spur. So I just use sandpaper to thinner the crankshift ring, so the flywheel will get closer to engine case, to solve the problem.

But, if your flywheel already very close to engine, I guess shim the 2speed or thinner the 2nd pinon is the only solution, unless you buy the Yokomo Centax.

bbntc3

If you guys ever decide to get the BMI chassis, you don't have to worry about gear clearance. Jason moved the engine foward to allow for all the clearance problems. I have noticed on the Sirio engines you have to use a spacer behind the flywheel to get full gear mesh. Also the fuel tank has been moved foward and more to the center of the car for better balance.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Unless I am thinking about the different chassis...isn't it BMI chassis made the steering servo STAND UP instead of the lay down design..............WHY?
But the shaving the collet methrod is good to try............also, if the BMI chassis already slided the engine backward a little is good to know...

And about the tank...you said the tank has been moved forward and more to the center of the car...does that mean much closer to the HEADER of the engine.......? if that is the case, isn't it the FUEL LINE will be much more closer to the header...?
The original location is close enough, I don't want it to be more closer when the heat of the header will BURN UP the fuel before it hit the carb...........of course, unless I am thinking about the total opposite direction from what you are saying........

soc123_au

iTrader: (2)

On the BMI Chassis the fuel tank is further away from the header. Not by much, but enough to help keep the fuel line away from the pipe compared to the AE chassis.

CHUCKMANDO

iTrader: (4)

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Rookie Solara
[B]Yes, it does....like you, I want to see how 22/29T has to do on the NTC3, and because NTC3 is a little shorter in gear ratio compare to S710 and MTX3, I thought the 22/29T will bring my NTC3 PAR with S710 or MTX3...

Agreed, that was my whole point of trying the centax.. My ps12 is balistic and I have been having plenty of luck against the local competition. In a week or 2, I plan on going against the 235's and 1/8s to see what the car can really do.

Funny thing happened to me. A couple of weeks ago, I was having a bit of a problem with both of my cars. One was an old engine giving out, and I smacked the rear of a much slower car not keeping any line. Then got t boned. I was wrenching for most of the day. Got a comment from a couple of people about how fragile the car is. This past week, I ran almost all day, and the comment was from the same person(lhs owner)my car is the quickest and thought about going back to the ntc3

Go figure

bbntc3

Yes it helped by moving the tank up and over, but with the Rd pipe K -factory small flywheel and 3 shoe clutch with k- engine mounts (which are shorter in height). The bottom of the header must be massage alittle, or the header just barely touches the back of the K tank.The Ae mounts with the K clutch will work ok I think but the K mounts lower the CG alittle. I think the Ae tanks clears fine. I have melted a place in every K tank I use, but not enough to hurt them.
The tank is moved foward to where the steering rack almost rubs the tank, you must use 1 AE ball socket there. I use K tanks so fuel outlet clearance has not been a problem, just a pain to get too!!
As for the servo upside down, it's odd looking, but works great! it has a straighter throw and theres is 0 binding compared to the AE design. Also any alum or after market steering horn will work, instead of having to use the Ae horn. Most people think the CG is screwed up with the servo mounted so high, but the servo weight has been counter weighted underneath the servo. What people don't really know about the BMI chassis is all the weight is below the shaft, not half the weight above the shaft like AE design So the CG is much lower than the other aftermarket and AE chassis's. It's almost impossible to traction roll the BMI chassis. You guys with the other
after market and Ae chassis can't say that?? Can ya??
Theres actually 3 BMI chassis designs out there, GEN 1, GEN 2, and what Jason calls the GEN 2 signature series All 3 are good and better than any other chassis out there. Jason threw out all the stops on the signature series it has all the input from all the racers who use it added to it plus clearances and tolerances were tightened up, plus it has a super nice polished finish. BB

wizby

Who distributes the BMI chassis. Or where can I buy them.

revzalot

iTrader: (4)

Anyone have any tips on how to prevent the spur gears from stripping? I've stripped them from debris such as rocks, engine mounts moving due to screws being loose, and even the screws on the spur gears come off. I've threadlock the screws but still it's not enough.

CHUCKMANDO

iTrader: (4)

Have you cleaned out the hole grooves on the chasis? That might help. Are you using quality tools?

bbntc3

www.bmiracing.com

raceblast

I think either the track you run your car on is too dirty or your gear meshing is either too tight or too loose. Make sure your pinion gears are aligned with the spur gears. Sometimes, if the one way hub or your clutch housing is not functioning correctly, it can strip the spur gears too.