Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

ive used the Nitro shoes since its release and have had good
luck with them except for a batch early last year. Mine was
spliting in the middle like it was cut. so i stayed away untill
my hobby shop reordered and made sure i got the new ones
and didn't happen. So hopefully it was just in that batch you
ordered.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

You just covered the exact same problem I had with Nitro shoes...see what you can do and ship those rims/tires back to Nitro Shoes and try out their newer one...

I am not surprised to see there are others have the same problem........but I also heard more ppl have very good result on Nitro shoes....I don't see Team Assoicated Drivers have problem with them....I would like to try them out again.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

That is exactly the same batch that I had....early last year.

Korgae

iTrader: (15)

Hello,

We knew of that problem last year and even went as far as issueing a recall.

It was posted on our website ( it has now been taken off) we posted it in our forum here on RC Tech. we contacted our dist(S).

I am amazed that you never heard of this recall. We quicky found the problem, isolated the batch and pulled back everything we could find.

The problem was out of our hands and totally unavoidable on our part. but we stepped up to the plate and honored our product. and we continue to do so.

the problem with splitting was the glue itself, we buy drums from the manufacture, they themself's had mislabeled drums that were out of date.

Glue has a shelf life ( like Milk ) The manufacture sent out expired glue that was marked fresh.

As for the wheel's breaking:

I think no matter what, something has to give when you have 4 pound cars acheiving 45+ MPh.... our wheels are made to be light, stiff and strong.

I have travelled all over North America at races. I have seen our wheel break I have seen GRP's wheel break. It's going to happen we can make the wheel a tank but then it would be so heavy it would surly rip the arm out of the car or be to heavy that your car loses acceleration.

I do hear of our wheels breaking but compared to the amount of Nitro Shoes that are sold in a month (world Wide) that % would be 0.01

if you break a wheel on the first run send it back, you will get a new pair and we will get to see exactly where and why it broke.

We have changed our wheel mixture, ratio a few times this year, does this sound like a company that does not listen to feed back from racers?

Nitro Shoes are very popular, maybe becuase we are World Champions maybe becuase our product is consistant, fresh and has great company backing and support.

I want to thank the racers that stuck with us during our recall and welcome back the racers that went to other brands.

Thanks

Korgae Scales
Jaco Racing USA

Greg Amendola

iTrader: (28)

I'm sure 28mm will work but what about the 30mm? Since there is a alot of talk about tires, what brand do people seem to have the best success with for durability and wear?

Thanks for the input.
Greg

Niklas Edlund

As we also have, and still do, distribute other brands of tyres over the years I can tell you that I've never heard of any of the others suporting their product like Jaco, never. We also distribute Ellegi (same as Fast, Arrows, Best, TRC etc) and Ufra and have never got a chance to send back any faulty ones etc. And these issues, as Korgae explains, happens for every brand from time to time... I can defenetly say that their spoked wheels (Ellegi) brakes very easy.

Do note that there is a separate Jaco thread here on R/C tech also.

Again, we have only just started to distribute them and so far have heard no problems of splitting or wheels cracking and its only about 5-10 deg here so I guess at that temp they could brake even more easy.

Solara: There is 3 different rollcenter, camber gain holes to choose from in the back of the FT-NTC3. Serpent did it like that (on the 705 and backwards) just because they had an upper A-arm and not a link, the only way was to ad or remove spacers etc. I have actually not checked where the roll-centers are on the V2 vs V1 suspension, yet. So I have no clue on what could be done there. But now we at least have that possibility + the different inner holes. BTW, what do you think you want to do so to speak?

Tally: www.minicars.se (swedish only)

Niklas Edlund

Greg: what do you mean?

Most nitro touring cars use 26 mm fronts and 30 mm rears - where would U put the 28's ? Do note the rubber on the nitro tires are most often different to the carpet tyres. Performance wise I think that most racers worldwide would like the rears to be even wider due to the fact that there is more and more power etc. But the rules specify max 30 mm.

Its very easy to over cook the rears so you'll get more wear in the rear, easy also if your kind of a Colin McRae type of driver. For a 20 minute semifinal you could survive then but not in a 45 minute or 60 minute final. You want to aim your set-up on the car to treat all 4 corners of the car as equal as possible for a racing situation. Its very common for a seriouse driver to end up with a set-up that uses different camber on left-reight and even on some ocations different shure hardness on all 4 tires... That is for the finals etc.

My experiance with the NTC3 also is that you need to aim for as neutral set-up as possibble in general. Over-steer into every corners will make the rear step out in the middle and powersliding through it (if you have mucho power). That will end up with to much rear wear and no-more rear gears...

Also mentioned earlier as a reason for not buing an FT or any of the new NTC3 cars with version 2 suspension that it might still push on high speed corners. In generall these things can be adjusted by the mechanic, Cliff cant solve every possible problem for all NTC3 drivers. A very common problem with most of these cars is that people put in very fast steering servos and belive that the car will respond to every move you make on the transmitter. The world does not function like that. If you have like a Futaba 3PJ, 3PJS, 3PK, 3PM etc where you can adjust the steering speed. Try and reduce the speed to lets say 40% - you will be amazed in how much more high speed steering you will get.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Great, for this season I would give JACO/NITRO SHOES I try, at least this time when I see the problem, I know where to send the product back and get the refund or new items....

Good service.........

alucard13

I am still pretty new to the sport (1 year) so I missed the recall. If i can find any that broke i will send them back. It happened to me two months in a row. I have a couple pairs left that I am going to try out on my Mugen this sunday. Alot of the other guys I race with have swicthed to fast shoes (or whatever they r called). Not sure if it was because of these types of issues or if they wanted to try something new.

I agree. Cars like these doing 40+ mph and when it hits something, something is bound to give. But to be honest I have been using Nitro shoes all along with my NTC3 and when i was new i hit the rails ALOT more than i do now and the shoes never gave.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

What I was saying is............if you have time, add some spacer underneath the link (and above the rear upright) and see what the different it made....you can compare the conrering with and without the spacers and tell us what you think...

I can't even do that cause I don't have access of the new rear uprights nor I have the time....

Solara

iTrader: (17)

To express my feeling about the rim construction of the NITRO SHOES, I have to compare that with FAST TIRES, ELLEGI or GRPs...I used them all, but still using, and I do understand when car running 50mph nailing the board or other car.....something will gives, and that is usually front arms, pillow balls or steering knuckles.............RARELY the rim itself.

4 years of running foams, I believed I broke only 1 (not 1 pair, 1) rims from a Ellegi mulit-spoke, and that tire was almost used to 55mm and I expect that will happend....
But on my last batch of Nitro Shoes, they were brand new....and it is not just me, that happened to those who brought from me and I was embarrased....cause I was told these were used by the current CHAMP team AE NTC3 racer....and I don't expect the rim are that CRASPY....

They were either cracked or the whole rim flow out of the car....that never happened on my Ellegi Dish, and only happened on 1 of my Ellegi multi-spoke...........they usually bent, but never gave out the whole rim.

Niklas Edlund

Solara: when I have some time I will check the roll centers on the V2. Right now I cant even figure out any faults on the camber gains and roll-centers in the rear etc. I just dont have the time to play around with these things, if it works, usually there is so much more important stuff to test. If I remember it correctly on the M2 (Serpent) we raised the ball to make the rear end slide under very high traction conditions... We also milled away material on the hubs to gain traction sometimes, that was in 2WD though. It will take at least a couple of months for any of that to be tested as in May we will be very occupied with 1/8 off-road. Its another worlds warm-up in May here and lots of other stuff to do.

thefuzzclub

tried adjusting many times but it won't shift
- i rebuild it based on manual specs
- initially set the 2 speed screws (black one) to 3 1/2 turn out
- run the car and adjust the 2 speed screws 1/8 out
- continued adjusting both srews 1/8 out and run the car
- until the shoes are loose already but it won't shift at all

one thing i noticed is that there is not much pressure when you press the spring in the shoes using your fingers. should i replace this? need your inputs pls.

Number 11

Who makes a good stiff chassis 3mm? I currently have the 1st version of the BMI chassis and like it for the most part. The only thing I don't like about it is cleaning it I like to remove my electronics and there is no place to put sway bars. Any suggestions?

spawn

iTrader: (6)

GH... 7075 3mm chassis. Dont get the motor mounts, they are a bit out of alignment unless GH has rectified the mounts.