Originally posted by Punkynutt
Only one flaw with the NTC3 and tons of aftermarket parts. The only thing that has broken on my car is one (there are 8 in total) pivot ball cap. The flaw is this, if you were to hit something, or lets say if something like the wall or boards jump onto the track in front of you, you might "shock" the electrics. Dunno what it is, but it happened twice. The Receiver and Servos just go blank and your car continues what it was doing at that time, either circling or full speed in one direction. I've seen this mentioned before on a thread
I've upgraded to an Aluminum Shaft, thats it.
Play around with the gears, be carefull with the mesh. Buy the complete Tuning guide for the NTC3 from rc10.com
I run Jaco Nitro Shoes (35-40 shore).
Here's what i did to make sure it runs and behaves like a true racer.
1.Got a titanium chassis to reduce weight.
2.Changed all screws to titanium.
3.Changed rear bulkhead to alu to reduce flex under breaking.
4.Changed pivotballs to titanium to reduce weight on suspension area.
5.Changed turnbuckles to titanium for strength and weight reduction.
6.Added front/rear sway bars.
7.Changed to a lightened one way bearing.
8.Got the RPM bumper. It's a MUST.
9.Changed to a RDLogics Turbo Pipe.
10.Last but not least, RB X12 Rody Roem engine with KFactory Centax clutch.(but I'm back to using the 3 shoe stock)
Things I've not done...
1.The FIX screws.
2.Unobtanium Shock Shafts.
That said, you needn't get all those to make your NTC3 fast, just PRACTICE and a stock NTC3 can take anycar anytime.
p:s : Get the RPM bumper...I know I said it before, but I'm gonna say it again.