xray vision

Frank i think you're missing the point of why people like myself,bbntc3 like using the chassis.(lessens the chance of coping a tweak)
a couple of quick ?'s to ask yourself..
Does baker,easton etc run against the local club hack's?
Has a car ever bounced across the track and ended up on the main straight landing in front of you? I was running hardcore chassis at the time(tweaked length wise... )
A very old saying ...to finish first first one must finish.

And yes practice is the cheapest hopup

bbntc3

You've missed the point completely Frank. You can't even put Baker, Easton in the equation. If they wreck or get wrecked they just throw the car or chassis away and put another one together , at no expense. The BMI chassis is not worth the money for a beginner true. At $169 its very expensive. But, if you never want to replace another chassis again due to flex or tweak its the best ticket out there. Hell, I bought 3 different chassis, and made 3 different chassis before I bought the BMI. I had 3 times that much money in chassis.
But the other statement someone else said here about only a top 3 drivers will benefit from the chassis is also false. We're not a top 3 driver most of the time and the benenfits from the chassis we've found to be well worth the $$, but money is not an issue with me. I found the GH chassis to be another very good product for the $$$, I used it for almost a year, until the BMI came out. The thin light weight stamped chassis out there are not worth the $. Anything stamped, or less than 3mm thick, is a bad investment The new RD chassis may also be ok, it' looks like a GH copy. For what? $20 more you can have the GH or RD chassis.
I just don't think it's right for you guys to judge the BMI stuff, having not ever tried it. No offense man!!

Skidmark Racing

After racing with two different types of flat chassis, I switched to the BMI Gen 2, but kept all my suspesion settings the same. I was able to push my car much harder through the corners while maintaining complete control, and my steering felt more precise. When you feel this much of an improvement in car control, The Chassis is worth every penny and then some.

I feel sorry for sponsored drivers who are required to race with factory equipment. They're missing out!

bbntc3

Cool Skidmark! I help Jay alot with the G-2 chassis fixing what the Gen-1 was missing. Glad you like it! I have not heard anything bad about either BMI chassis , be in Gen1 or 2.
Here looks to be a good chassis for the newbies who feel the need for chassis improvement.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=44017

Boomer

Frank,

First - AE guys are required to run AE cars - stock (or a reasonable facsimile thereof) or with AE development parts. That's their contract.

Second - I'm no newbie to this. I've trophied at Nats (sportsman class) and big races before. While I'm not super, I'm a pretty decent drive. I can say, without equivocation, this chassis is substantially better than the stock, RD or any other chassis out there.

Third - if you think you can beat me with my BMI and you without - sure, I'll race you. Doesn't mean I'll win - I don't know your skill. It does mean that I, an A-main racer, should do pretty well with you.

Listen, bud, you're completely missing the point. I don't put a lot of hopups on my car. In fact, I have been adamant about running my car basically stock for the past two years until I got the BMI chassis. As I've said in innumerable posts - the only things I hopped up were tie rods to titanium, TheFix (which didn't change any function, really), new tank (I got one of the originals), steering rack spring (again, original), and sway bars F/R. I was A-main with those and did well.

But the car had to be constantly fussed with, I also run Pro10 Mod at Rev and fussing with batteries AND my NTC3 got to be just a bit much. I changed to the BMI chassis and I don't have to fuss with the car anymore - I get it set to a setting and I'm good to go.

My last A-main I got hacked several times (I try to let people by for the first 50% of the main. . .sometimes doesn't work) - once into the straight wall, once someone tried to duck inside in a hairpin ( used me as a rebound to make the turn). With my stock car these hacks would leave me with changed settings. With the BMI (G1) the only thing that had to be done was to pop the rear ball cap back on and I'm back in business. (need to replace that danged cap. . .)

You can slam all you want. This is from a sporstsman stock A-main driver - this thing is the real deal.

Boomer

Aren't they though?

I found exactly the same thing!

Skidmark Racing

And by the way, I'm pretty new to nitro touring cars, so it obviously does something for those of us on the lower end of the results list!

bbntc3

I was the same way Boomer. Always had to tweak on the car. Was really getting bored with it. I made a few chassis and tried them, the car got better and better, then when I seen what Jay had come up with I knew all problems would be gone
Now, when at the track, once I got it set to what we needed, I hardly ever have to wrench on it now.
Boomer: Is there any kind of onroad stadium truck racing out there? We have a Nitro Stadium truck class here on foams that's a blast! I was surprised how fast they really are.

alucard13

when did you switch to a BMI chassis? Last month you had the stock right?

frank13

so who has one i can borrow, and try out

Boomer

Not at any of the tracks I usually race at. The Hobby People races pretty much allow a class with whatever ya brung, . . . they migh.

Skidmark Racing

I switched right after the last Spacecoast race. I started with stock, then went to some aftermarket flat chassis (i don't remember the brand, but it only looked cool; I didn't feel any difference vs. the stock blue chassis.) When I switched to the BMI, I immediately felt a difference. I was blazing through the corners faster than ever before, but still felt completely in control. Who knows? Maybe I'll be able to keep up with you next month!

thefuzzclub

here's my set-up:

front
anti-sway bar (wire type)
spring yellow
oil 40wt
droop 5
camber 2deg
toe .5deg (out)
caster 12deg
ride height 5
tires rubber (40)

rear
spring red
oil 40wt
droop 5
camber 3deg
toe 2deg (in)
ride height 5
tires rubber (40)

i run in asphalt small technical track and my problem is i lack steering when entering tight corners. need your help.

BOOMER can you help.

Boomer

without knowing anything else, I would suggest:

It sounds like you need a bit more weight transfer to the front (upon entering a corner)

First - go to the stock 9deg caster (I never touch this. . .try to work around it)

then I would try these (one at a time, see how each works)

Lower your RH a mil in the front
go to +1 degree on toe
drop the sway bar
go one step softer on front springs

Just some ideas.

frank13

hey boomer, can you im me at fcsntjg77.. i have some ntc3 questions for ya ,