Rc10ntc3
#3721
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (48)
Originally posted by BossPlaya
So if i decide to get the NTC3 over the MTX-3 what extra parts am I gonna need to avoid the typical problems all NTC3 owners inevitably face?
So if i decide to get the NTC3 over the MTX-3 what extra parts am I gonna need to avoid the typical problems all NTC3 owners inevitably face?
Jon
#3722
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Louisville, KY!.. USA!! ....Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,847
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Originally posted by Number 11
Hey fastharry where do I find out more about the white gears for the diff? I haven't heard about this.
Hey fastharry where do I find out more about the white gears for the diff? I haven't heard about this.
thew look the same,only they are pearl white...all the parts #'s are the same..they have been shipped,but they need to work they're way through the pipeline...I ordered mine from associated direct....
btw,I never blew teh stock gears...actually,no one racing with us ever did either..all last year..and we run 5 port RB turbos..
they make the pinion gears also...and the old one way/solid axles gear,AND the new HD one way gear...
ALL you guys should subcsribe to the associated news letter..the sign up is on their site.....
#3723
Tech Elite
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Join Date: Sep 2001
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Originally posted by Swen
Get a spring from a RC10GT slipper clutch and put that in the steering rack instead of the kit one. You'll get a much better steering response. I would stick with the stock tank to start with. The RD pipe is a good choice I think. However I wouldn't get the titanium pivot balls. The ones I've had don't seem to help much they still bend rather easy. I would get some ti turnbuckles though. The TR is a good motor you should enjoy it. Other than that I'd try the car as is and see how you like it. You can always upgrade later.
Jon
Get a spring from a RC10GT slipper clutch and put that in the steering rack instead of the kit one. You'll get a much better steering response. I would stick with the stock tank to start with. The RD pipe is a good choice I think. However I wouldn't get the titanium pivot balls. The ones I've had don't seem to help much they still bend rather easy. I would get some ti turnbuckles though. The TR is a good motor you should enjoy it. Other than that I'd try the car as is and see how you like it. You can always upgrade later.
Jon
DON"T forget to order "THE FIX" for the shock tower......
and swen is right..stick with the stock tank..just make sure its teh new one with the pressure feed in the lid...
#3724
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
I would like to ask the fellow NTC racer.....how many of you are using DRAG breaking on race....?
The reason I jumped from Serpent (Belt in general) is the free wheelie feeling for the whole car.......it was really nice (for a while) untill I sees the 200 plus straight one time.....and realized that I HAVE to have brake at the end of the straight........
When I race my Serpent, I rarely need to use the brake except the emergency, I am awared that it is NOT a good habbit...but the car was just tight enough for NOT diving into the wall after WOT....On NTC3, that is TOTALLY different story, along with 21/27 - 54/48 gearing.......WOT on NTC3 is like a Dummy crash test vehicle targetting to the board...........
So I added some drag braking to help my finger out a little.....it ended up very good after the WOT on the straight, however, it is NOT that good while I am turning on those small tight corning....I am automatic brakes ON all the time....it is NOT a easy tesk for my finger (habbit) to change after racing belt for 10 plus year...
I would like to know how you guys SET the drag braking, or does anyone use DRAG braking...? Or just simply FINGER braking, like Barry Baker did all the time, I saw clips of him.........he BRAKE his his NTC3 a long....for good 45 minutes.
The reason I jumped from Serpent (Belt in general) is the free wheelie feeling for the whole car.......it was really nice (for a while) untill I sees the 200 plus straight one time.....and realized that I HAVE to have brake at the end of the straight........
When I race my Serpent, I rarely need to use the brake except the emergency, I am awared that it is NOT a good habbit...but the car was just tight enough for NOT diving into the wall after WOT....On NTC3, that is TOTALLY different story, along with 21/27 - 54/48 gearing.......WOT on NTC3 is like a Dummy crash test vehicle targetting to the board...........
So I added some drag braking to help my finger out a little.....it ended up very good after the WOT on the straight, however, it is NOT that good while I am turning on those small tight corning....I am automatic brakes ON all the time....it is NOT a easy tesk for my finger (habbit) to change after racing belt for 10 plus year...
I would like to know how you guys SET the drag braking, or does anyone use DRAG braking...? Or just simply FINGER braking, like Barry Baker did all the time, I saw clips of him.........he BRAKE his his NTC3 a long....for good 45 minutes.
#3725
where to order the fix? any website?
#3726
Originally posted by hashini
where to order the fix? any website?
where to order the fix? any website?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LX2767
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXD999
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXR824
or
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXAFV3
That should about do it.
#3727
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (48)
I set the drag brake on my car and then on the tight slower inside turns I just keep on the gas a little bit. I have my car setup with lots of steering so this is what works well for me. In your driving style do you like to have some push or do you like the car to be a little bit twichy? It is up to you.
Jon
Jon
#3728
Bad news i was running my car with a buddy of mine and my darn pull start snapped. the car is 5 days old too. that pissed me off. but i left my car with my buddy and he is going to fix it (i hope). if not time to order a new pull start.
#3729
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Louisville, KY!.. USA!! ....Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,847
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Originally posted by hashini
where to order the fix? any website?
where to order the fix? any website?
we've beenn through the 5 dollar substitute so many times already....IT IS NOT THE SAME AS "THE FIX" which which you'll see on Ebay...if your trying to save 20 dollars with a inferior substitute on a 500 dollar car..you're in the wrong hobby...
Last edited by fastharry™; 04-30-2003 at 04:16 PM.
#3730
I've been putting off running my new NTC3 because The Fix hasn't showed up yet.
#3731
Originally posted by fastharry
go to ebay..type in "the Fic TC3"..
we've beenn through the 5 dollar substitute so many times already....IT IS NOT THE SAME AS "THE FIX" which which you'll see on Ebay...if your trying to save 20 dollars with a inferior substitute on a 500 dollar car..you're in the wrong hobby...
go to ebay..type in "the Fic TC3"..
we've beenn through the 5 dollar substitute so many times already....IT IS NOT THE SAME AS "THE FIX" which which you'll see on Ebay...if your trying to save 20 dollars with a inferior substitute on a 500 dollar car..you're in the wrong hobby...
That being said, I still would like to get the fix. . .just haven't gotten to it yet.
#3732
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Louisville, KY!.. USA!! ....Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,847
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Originally posted by Boomer
I am not using the $5 solution to save money, it's because I enjoy making things. . . and my $5 solution worked perfectly - the shock tower was destroyed from my fix outward and the trans cases are completely intact. In fact the remains of the shock tower are still held very solidly!
That being said, I still would like to get the fix. . .just haven't gotten to it yet.
I am not using the $5 solution to save money, it's because I enjoy making things. . . and my $5 solution worked perfectly - the shock tower was destroyed from my fix outward and the trans cases are completely intact. In fact the remains of the shock tower are still held very solidly!
That being said, I still would like to get the fix. . .just haven't gotten to it yet.
trsut me Boomer..no disrespect intended.....(esp towards you)..
but,truth be told,even though it helped in your situation,its not as good as the 2 screws that thread together in the fix...
#3733
Originally posted by fastharry
trsut me Boomer..no disrespect intended.....(esp towards you)..
but,truth be told,even though it helped in your situation,its not as good as the 2 screws that thread together in the fix...
trsut me Boomer..no disrespect intended.....(esp towards you)..
but,truth be told,even though it helped in your situation,its not as good as the 2 screws that thread together in the fix...
I have also looked at getting a 2" 4x40 countersunk screw so I could go up from the bottom, use my .56" spacer, a washer and a nut to make it one single solid link from bottom to top - unfortunatley nobody makes a 2" 4x40 countersunk screw.
I'm out of racing for the summer (kinda reverse from the rest of the world, I know) so I'm not too worried about the fix for my NTC3 just yet. . . but will be in a bit. . .
#3734
Registered User
yes the clicker shocks take the same Ae springs. Heres a link they are under TC3 hopups.https://mmm1504.boca15-verio.com/tea...=1506146_46937
#3735
A Proper Fix is always better than a Half-baked Fix. . .