Rc10ntc3
#3391
I know this has been covered and I have tried searching throught these 3400 posts...
But all is I need to know is what size of nut do you need for the rear toe linkages, to stop the ball cup from being compressed?
I tried 4-40, 6-32, and 8-32 with no luck.
Thanks
But all is I need to know is what size of nut do you need for the rear toe linkages, to stop the ball cup from being compressed?
I tried 4-40, 6-32, and 8-32 with no luck.
Thanks
#3392
Tech Master
iTrader: (57)
Re: NTC3 Clutch
Originally posted by theRED5
I tried the MIP #3076 NTC3 clutch today, retail price is $15.95, and this is the clutch to use!! The punch off the line and out of corners is terrific. Don't waste your money on the KFactory or the other clutch without trying one of these.
I tried the MIP #3076 NTC3 clutch today, retail price is $15.95, and this is the clutch to use!! The punch off the line and out of corners is terrific. Don't waste your money on the KFactory or the other clutch without trying one of these.
#3393
Tech Adept
It grabs way better than a modded 3 shoe clutch.
#3394
Tech Apprentice
Its the 2 shoe with a wraparound spring right? and then you gan get different strength springs... I was considering getting one... though i also want to try the kfactory 3 shoe... and maybe... someday... a kfactory centax
#3396
Well,I got my RD logics cases today. As soon as I got home I put one on the front.Not impressed. I had to use the stock bottom with the alum. top for the diff to even move.I did scape the bearing saddles and the flange before I even installed them. I ordered two and the other seems better. Anyone have any ideas?
#3397
Registered User
Yes Swen the 3 shoe and 2 shoe takes the same shoes. I was told the serpent shoes and springs will also work. Not
sure on that though.
I like the 3 shoe, gold spring and 2 holes drilled in the meat of the shoes. I use a 1/16th drill bit.
I have a K factory 3 shoe deal on the way . I'm more interested in the harden flywheel the kit comes with, the stock flywheels wear to easy. I'll keep you posted
sure on that though.
I like the 3 shoe, gold spring and 2 holes drilled in the meat of the shoes. I use a 1/16th drill bit.
I have a K factory 3 shoe deal on the way . I'm more interested in the harden flywheel the kit comes with, the stock flywheels wear to easy. I'll keep you posted
#3398
Bolisario> Yes, about the clutch, it has 1/2 shoes with a spring that wraps around the outside. I comes on better, no slip...and lets the car launch off the corner.
I use a Murnan hand-Modified engine, and with the extra power was just losing it all with the stock clutches.Like I said, I tried all the combinations, 2 shoe w/ gold springs, cut shoes, drilled shoes, copper springs, 3 shoe...none are as good as the MIP. And Stefan, also on here, spent the big $ on the KFactory AND (I think) the Kawahara...he had nothnig good to say about them, just that they didn't fix it.
As far as optional springs, I don't know...I lost the one out of the package, before I got to the workshop...I know, wait till you get to the car to open the package But when I got to the track they had replacement springs, they looked the same. But it was really hard to stretch the spring around the shoes.
Like I said, it $15(or 16).95 retail....what the K brands cost? I have to conserve my finances.
I use a Murnan hand-Modified engine, and with the extra power was just losing it all with the stock clutches.Like I said, I tried all the combinations, 2 shoe w/ gold springs, cut shoes, drilled shoes, copper springs, 3 shoe...none are as good as the MIP. And Stefan, also on here, spent the big $ on the KFactory AND (I think) the Kawahara...he had nothnig good to say about them, just that they didn't fix it.
As far as optional springs, I don't know...I lost the one out of the package, before I got to the workshop...I know, wait till you get to the car to open the package But when I got to the track they had replacement springs, they looked the same. But it was really hard to stretch the spring around the shoes.
Like I said, it $15(or 16).95 retail....what the K brands cost? I have to conserve my finances.
#3399
Yep! I have said it once before and i'll say it again........ The stock clutch sucks!! Same goes for the three shoe too.
The stock clutch works fine for the first two minutes but soon after the glaze starts forming and it's slip city around the corner. I think thats where lots of tuning problems many are having stems from. A friend switched to a Kawahara "centax" and noticed a big difference right away in tuning stability and performance.
I think the MIP clutch IS the best hop up you can buy for the NTC3.
The stock clutch works fine for the first two minutes but soon after the glaze starts forming and it's slip city around the corner. I think thats where lots of tuning problems many are having stems from. A friend switched to a Kawahara "centax" and noticed a big difference right away in tuning stability and performance.
I think the MIP clutch IS the best hop up you can buy for the NTC3.
#3400
Originally posted by che
I know this has been covered and I have tried searching throught these 3400 posts...
But all is I need to know is what size of nut do you need for the rear toe linkages, to stop the ball cup from being compressed?
I tried 4-40, 6-32, and 8-32 with no luck.
Thanks
I know this has been covered and I have tried searching throught these 3400 posts...
But all is I need to know is what size of nut do you need for the rear toe linkages, to stop the ball cup from being compressed?
I tried 4-40, 6-32, and 8-32 with no luck.
Thanks
#3402
Metric!?
Okay, thanks!
Okay, thanks!
#3403
We've never had problems with the stock 2 or 3 shoe clutches of the NTC3, we've had problems with the kawahara centax clutch though... I hear the K-factory centax is the clutch to have, but i haven't tried one yet...
the only 2 problems we have with the NTC3 are:
1. the shock towers always loosen from the diff case.
2. its very hard to get the NTC3 to shift at the same place, every single time out... every run, the shifting point varys...
--- any suggestions...
the only 2 problems we have with the NTC3 are:
1. the shock towers always loosen from the diff case.
2. its very hard to get the NTC3 to shift at the same place, every single time out... every run, the shifting point varys...
--- any suggestions...
#3404
Originally posted by fastharry
has anyone run the tc3 against the new Mugen yet?....
has anyone run the tc3 against the new Mugen yet?....
Yep... the mtx3 definitely has more steering than the NTC3...
when we used the touring car bodies, the NTC3 is more forgiving and handles flawlessly... however on lola (VDS) bodies, the MTX3 has the advantage.
Still NTC3 rules...
#3405
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Louisville, KY!.. USA!! ....Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,847
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
hey,thats what I like to hear...except you won't hear that on the Mugen forum ....but the next big car out,half those guys will be off the bandwagon anyway....
I saw the K factory tank today..its pretty impressive looking..don't know if its worth 50 bucks,but it sure looks nice..
A couple of people didn't like the way they ran with that tank..
anyone else have any FIRST HAND knowledge?...
I saw the K factory tank today..its pretty impressive looking..don't know if its worth 50 bucks,but it sure looks nice..
A couple of people didn't like the way they ran with that tank..
anyone else have any FIRST HAND knowledge?...