bbntc3

I thought Kimbrough made the spur gears for AE? I purchased one of the first NTC3 kits that came out and it had Kimbrough spurs.

JPHRacer

Jay Kimbrough make the NTC3 spurs, as well as the some of the spurs for the RC10 GT.

BOLISARIO

iTrader: (57)

Hey I'm all for it, if it works and does not affect the suspension's ROM. First I thought Ray Huang was doing one, then he sold the idea to someone and now it's in limbo.

You'd expect AE to come up with a fix, but all they were testing at Crystal Park last week were new brake discs and carbide diff balls. Like we really need those parts now.

Lowrance

iTrader: (30)

Corse-R:

I've thought about making the pieces but I've been down that road before making stuff I couldn't find right away.I could easily see myself with a 25 dollar left hand jam nut.

I'll e-mail Lundsford to see what the thread size is on their big turnbuckles and go from there.

Garry

Corse-R

On McMaster I found the necesary stuff, but the equipment is about 200 US$ between LH and RH tapping tools. Quite expensive to do only one set.

bbntc3

I use 1/8th scale captured ball ends with larger turnbuckles. I have'nt really had any more trouble in that area with the ballcups coming off or the turnbuckles driving up inside the ballcups.
Heres something to think about maybe, since 2 degrees seem to be the magic # on rear toe, take some stock turnbuckles use ofna captured ends, (in the color you desire), install on the car, set toe in to where you want it. Remove the cups, drill small hole in the ballcup through the threaded part of turnbuckle and just install a roll pin in it. If you think theres not enough meat in the turnbuckle for this just find where end of the turnbuckle is in the ballcup and drill a hole in the ballcup only and install a roll pin there. You'll also have to drill or file the hole in the pivotball so the 6/32 screw will go through it, about 1 mm. This will do the same thing as a adjustment nut but you would have to make a few sets for diff. toe lengths since it is now non adjustable. You will have to buy captured ball ends with a standoff made onto the ball or add some kinda spacer under the pivot ball on the ends to get enough movement in the end for chassis movement up and down. Note : a captured end is much better, but will still come off in a bad hit so its best to add a 4mm flatwasher on the top of the ball to keep it from coming off.
You could just buy longer turnbuckles and cut them off at the exact length you desire at the end of the ballcup, but my way is much simpilier and more user friendly

fuse01

whats everyone gearing?

i run on a huge track (1/8 car) with 20/26 and 54/48.
i noticed that the first gear is way too short and there is a big gap between 1st and 2nd gear.


what would be the recommended gearing? i know stock gearing is too short and run out of steam fast..



anyone tried a 22/26 with 54/48? or 21/26 with 54/48?


please advise.

Corse-R

My local track has >200Ft of backstraight and flowing turns and I make my Sirio scream all the straight with 21/27 54/48. He runs out of steam just at the end of the straight, when it's brake time.

A 22 tooth on the 1st is way long for my personal prefs, prefeer to have the punch of a very short 1st gear. 26 tooth with 50 tooth spur is way short for a decent engine unless you run on a pretty tight racetrack.

About the 22/26 with 54/48 isn't possible is a 4 toot split on the clutch side vs. a 6 tooth split on the gears side. Much possibly you rip a gear.

A 5 tooth split is possible, but gear mesh is a little tricky. Tested and used a 21/26 with 54/48 on my RB X12 (210 model) tested the 215 model w/ turbo plug and went to 21/27.

veesix

Corse-R,

Let me make sure I understand, you’re saying to keep the split between the clutch side and/or gear side to an even number (like 2, 4, or 6). Otherwise, you may have problems with mesh or stripping of the gears.

fuse01

is it true that if we use 54/48--- 6 tooth split we must use 6 tooth split on pinon as well?

like 20/26 or 21/27?

stock was 54/50 ---4 tooth split
stock 22/26----4 tooth split


so if i run 52/48,means i can run 22/26?



i have not tried 21/27 ...

but 20/26 is not giving me theextra power inthe low speed turns as the 2nd speed is either too tall or the the 1 speed is dragging the car.... 6 tooth is a big gap...

as we new to this car in our country, we hope to do further testing... so far harder spring in the rear feels good..

nova racer

http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/engine_timing3.asp

bbntc3

21/25 with 54/50
22/26 with 54/50 (stock in kit)
23/27 with 54/50
20/26 with 54/48
21/27 with 54/48


20/22 with 52/50
21/23 with 52/50
22/24 with 52/50
23/25 with 52/50
24/26 with 52/50
25/27with 52/50

Corse-R

In few words, all your reasoning is fine.

The main problem we suffer all the drivers of this car is the 'peculiar, curious and exotic' exhaust pipe - doesn't matter if its the one or the two chamber. Lack of high end rpms and lots of torque (Rody Roem noticed too at the Cincy nats the NTC3 aren givin all the high rpms that those engines could develop). You can try all what you think (porting manifold, cutting manifold, stretching the manifold into the pipe, doesn't matter all aleviates but not solves completely the 'problem').

So the 'answer' is going up and gear it accordingly (that is: gear it wild).

Maybe with a 52/48 and 22/26 or 23/27 you can get good results too (for my liking 23 is too large for 1st gear), all is question of setup of the clutch, gearbox and carb tunning. I liked the way that accelerates from deadstop with 21/27 on finals.

All my setups run with equal springs at 4 wheels or stiffer at rears, car is really planted for my personal prefs. I did a 2mm rear roll bar and the improvements over the stock roll bar were noted (stock roll bar is fine for electric, but not for nitro with foams).

NTC3NUT

I gear 20/26-54/48, with a ported & cut (1/2") manifold, a dual chamber pipe, and a JP RS12TS1. We race on an 1/8 scale track with a 200' straight. I use Jaco Nitro Shoes at their full diam., and I have one of the faster (if not the fastest) sedans at our track. My car can typically hit approx. 55mph on that back straight. That may not sound fast to some of you, but trust me it is. I have not been able to get a one-way to survive yet, so I run diffs front & rear. I tried this gearing combo with a solid rear axle and it was nearly out of control coming out of the corners, too much power with that low gearing. I tried going to 21/27-54/48, but the JP couldn't reach it's top end on the straight. Next season I am going to try a 4 tooth spilt 22/26-54/50, and see what it does.

bbntc3

You guys need to try the center exhaust system deal like I am using. Believe me, the rpm troubles will go away! And if you get a chance grab a Richey off e-bay! I don't know what he does but his engines pull like theres no tomorrow!! His engines give that extra 25' of rpm and straight away speed like no other! Even with the Richey my car still suffered rpm and straight away speed until I change exhaust systems.
Has anybody tried the 1 piece pipe deal that someone posted here for sale on ebay? The mani looks to be to long but the system could maybe help the pipe probs. It would be interesting to see what it does, I think it went for $85 on ebay, and thats way too much!