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Old 10-21-2003, 05:06 AM
  #541  
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Default nitro sopercharger

Sounds good for squeezing more power out of your engine? Correct me if im worng but nothing is mentioned about run times.
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Old 10-21-2003, 05:15 AM
  #542  
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What engine is everyone racing on their MTX-3?
I race with the stock engine that came with the kit. Just bought Novarossi NS12S3 JP Racing. After i break it in on the serpnet engine break-in bench i will race with the JP
What do you think about engine break-in bench? Has anyone used it?
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Old 10-21-2003, 05:29 AM
  #543  
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Originally posted by Top Gun 777
Finaly got my Piston/sleeve/conrod sets on my hands, will post pics tonight or tommorow.
I wish some fuel company sponsor me with fuel for testing-6 sleeves and 12 pistons to test, will need 10-12 gallons

. . . . . would love to sponser you - willing to supply fuel, balance of engine parts, car and driver.
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Old 10-21-2003, 05:36 AM
  #544  
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Default Re: Pinch at TDC

Originally posted by JustRace
If I remove the glow plug and move the piston to TDC there's no longer a pinch. Would that definately mean it's time to get a new P/S? There's still compression with the glow plug in and I can rock it back and forth at TDC without losing compression. But I'm wondering about the pinch. Without the pinch then with the motor warm I'll probably lose compression.
As previously outlined, this is not necessarily a problem. Don't forget that when warm, the piston will expand more than the liner.
Our Rody has never had big static compression, but it goes like a cat with turpentine on it's whatchamacallits.
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Old 10-21-2003, 07:17 AM
  #545  
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Default Piston/sleeve sets

Hi guys. Here are pics for my new P/S sets.
On the right side is ABC construction and left side is Berilium brass for sleeve. Centre is AAC
Attached Thumbnails Engine Wars Thread-edik-050.jpg  
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Old 10-21-2003, 07:18 AM
  #546  
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Default P/s sets

Here other pic
Attached Thumbnails Engine Wars Thread-edik-051.jpg  
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Old 10-21-2003, 07:19 AM
  #547  
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Default P/S set

last pic
Different color means different material, Berilium brass is darker and much more hard to work with.
Conrods have eleptical profile insted of sharp knife as common, hope no need to explane why.
Attached Thumbnails Engine Wars Thread-edik-057.jpg  
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Old 10-21-2003, 07:31 AM
  #548  
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Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
. . . . . would love to sponser you - willing to supply fuel, balance of engine parts, car and driver.
You got it! And I got!
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Old 10-21-2003, 08:10 AM
  #549  
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Default Re: Re: Pinch at TDC

Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Don't forget that when warm, the piston will expand more than the liner.
This is patently wrong - what the heck was I thinking?

Obviously everything I know about engines could be scratched on the back of an asprin with a crow bar.
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Old 10-21-2003, 08:11 AM
  #550  
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Originally posted by czotalis
What engine is everyone racing on their MTX-3?
I race with the stock engine that came with the kit. Just bought Novarossi NS12S3 JP Racing. After i break it in on the serpnet engine break-in bench i will race with the JP
What do you think about engine break-in bench? Has anyone used it?
In my opinion this is the best and only one right way to run in engine. With right propeller you will keep heat cyckling in right level.
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Old 10-21-2003, 08:18 AM
  #551  
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Default Re: P/S set

Originally posted by Top Gun 777
last pic
Different color means different material, Berilium brass is darker and much more hard to work with.
Conrods have eleptical profile insted of sharp knife as common, hope no need to explane why.
Since we've established I know nothing about engines, I guess I can ask . . .

Presumably the elliptical profile is more aerodynamic than the typical knife edge, but maybe a little heavier?

. . . . and I notice an oil hole for the gudgeon pin?
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Old 10-21-2003, 09:31 AM
  #552  
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I'm guessing elliptacle shape is for strength.
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Old 10-21-2003, 09:34 AM
  #553  
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Originally posted by Top Gun 777
In my opinion this is the best and only one right way to run in engine. With right propeller you will keep heat cyckling in right level.
So what about wearing in the engine under the load it will be used, as in driving it in the car. I like to put the engine in the car, run a tank on the starter box to get a carb tune to starting temp. Then put the car down and run it partial throttle so the engine is driving the drivetrain.

But a stand would be more convenient since I wouldn't need the car or the space a car requires. I've been thinking of making my own stand, Serpent's is way too expensive. What's the best prop?
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Old 10-21-2003, 09:56 AM
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Originally posted by Surge
So what about wearing in the engine under the load it will be used, as in driving it in the car. I like to put the engine in the car, run a tank on the starter box to get a carb tune to starting temp. Then put the car down and run it partial throttle so the engine is driving the drivetrain.

But a stand would be more convenient since I wouldn't need the car or the space a car requires. I've been thinking of making my own stand, Serpent's is way too expensive. What's the best prop?
I would suggest 4x3 will be OK, wooden.
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Old 10-21-2003, 09:59 AM
  #555  
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Default Re: Re: P/S set

Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Since we've established I know nothing about engines, I guess I can ask . . .

Presumably the elliptical profile is more aerodynamic than the typical knife edge, but maybe a little heavier?

. . . . and I notice an oil hole for the gudgeon pin?
It defenetly has better aerodynamic and weight wise is the same.
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