clutch bell and shoes question
08-03-2003, 09:39 AM
#1
Tech Master
Thread Starter
clutch bell and shoes question
since people dont answer in the off road section and the same engine and clutch is used in HPI on road cars I am going to ask here to hopefully get a full solution to my problem.
well my clutch bell touches the flywheel which I was told isn't good because it can wear a groove into it. so you place shims on the inside of the clutch bell to stop it from doing that and that is where my question comes in. due to the clutch shoes being right up against the flywheel if the clutch bell is kept away from the flywheel the shoes wont be completely in the clutch bell. but isn't that bad?? should I just let the clutch bell hit the fly wheel? or let the clutch shoes not be completely inside the clutch bell??
the picture is when the clutch bell is pulled all the way out. when pushed all the way in it can rest flat against the flywheel.
am I missing something here??
well my clutch bell touches the flywheel which I was told isn't good because it can wear a groove into it. so you place shims on the inside of the clutch bell to stop it from doing that and that is where my question comes in. due to the clutch shoes being right up against the flywheel if the clutch bell is kept away from the flywheel the shoes wont be completely in the clutch bell. but isn't that bad?? should I just let the clutch bell hit the fly wheel? or let the clutch shoes not be completely inside the clutch bell??
the picture is when the clutch bell is pulled all the way out. when pushed all the way in it can rest flat against the flywheel.
am I missing something here??
08-03-2003, 09:58 AM
#2
Tech Elite
corvettecrazy;
There should be one Washer on EACH side of the Roller Bearing on the Clutchbell with HPI Cars (supplied in the Kit).
The inner Washer keeps the Clutchbell from rubbing on the Flywheel, the outer Washer keeps it from coming off. You can add some thin Shims on either side to take up any extra slop if you want. Lightly re-lube the Clutch Bearing/Roller after every few HOURS of runtime.
If the Clutchbell rubs on the Flywheel, the Car/Truck WILL Glitch, absolutely.
The inner Washer keeps the Clutchbell from rubbing on the Flywheel, the outer Washer keeps it from coming off. You can add some thin Shims on either side to take up any extra slop if you want. Lightly re-lube the Clutch Bearing/Roller after every few HOURS of runtime.
If the Clutchbell rubs on the Flywheel, the Car/Truck WILL Glitch, absolutely.
Last edited by popsracer; 08-03-2003 at 10:04 AM.
08-03-2003, 08:37 PM
#3
Tech Master
Thread Starter
Re: corvettecrazy;
Originally posted by popsracer
There should be one Washer on EACH side of the Roller Bearing on the Clutchbell with HPI Cars (supplied in the Kit).
There should be one Washer on EACH side of the Roller Bearing on the Clutchbell with HPI Cars (supplied in the Kit).
is it bad that the clutch shoes wont completely be in the clutch bell??
08-04-2003, 06:09 AM
#5
Tech Master
Thread Starter
still I have a right to know if that little bit matters...aren't I? I am still under a year in this hobby and wouldlike to know. sorry if it irritates you.
08-05-2003, 09:32 PM
#6
Tech Master
Thread Starter
revisited
after running for a while w/o the shim this is how my clutch and flywheel looked.
is this bad??
is this bad??
08-05-2003, 09:33 PM
#7
Tech Master
Thread Starter
another shot other side
do the clutch shoes look alright??
do the clutch shoes look alright??
08-05-2003, 10:51 PM
#8
Your flywheel won't suck just because of this, and it won't cause any problem except with the asthetics of the part. But, it is a sign that things aren't as they should be. Just shim it, and you'll have nothing to worry about.
08-06-2003, 07:08 AM
#9
Tech Master
Thread Starter
what about the clutch shoe in the first picture is that normal wear? what about that long piece of clutch shoe that is hanging out?
08-06-2003, 03:29 PM
#10
To put it simply, the stock HPI clutch sucks. It melts quite easily, and I think the clutch was beginning to do this (as evidenced by that little amount that was sticking out). The clutch usually gets burned out in a couple of gallons. As long as you clean the glazed on plastic inside the steel clutch bell, it shouldn't damage anything but itself. Once it farts out, just buy the MIP clutch (also known as the HPI high performance clutch). It looks totally different as the clutch is circular (but again in two parts like the oem part), and has a wrap-around spring. It is much more durable, and easily adjusted... included instructions will tell it all.
Oh yeah, and to get rid of the glaze in the clutchbell, you should use a scotch brite pad or a dremel with a wire wheel. That should get the plastic gunk out of there.
Oh yeah, and to get rid of the glaze in the clutchbell, you should use a scotch brite pad or a dremel with a wire wheel. That should get the plastic gunk out of there.
08-06-2003, 05:49 PM
#11
Tech Master
Thread Starter
i dont know what you are exactly talking about... i understand everything but the stock clutch is the shoes into the steel clutch bell. would this make a difference? also the stock clutch doesn't have a wrap around sping.
08-07-2003, 01:36 PM
#12
Originally posted by Im2lazy
...Once it farts out, just buy the MIP clutch (also known as the HPI high performance clutch). It looks totally different as the clutch is circular (but again in two parts like the oem part), and has a wrap-around spring. It is much more durable, and easily adjusted... included instructions will tell it all....
...Once it farts out, just buy the MIP clutch (also known as the HPI high performance clutch). It looks totally different as the clutch is circular (but again in two parts like the oem part), and has a wrap-around spring. It is much more durable, and easily adjusted... included instructions will tell it all....
I was talking about the MIP/ HPI high performance clutch. It is much better than the stock job. And the spring, rather than the original HPI clutch (which has the little internal spring), the high performance one from MIP has a wraparound spring (which does just that, wrap around the clutch, in a little recess in the clutch shoe), and it lasts a kajillion times longer and is more easily adjusted. The MIP clutch is many times better, so get it when you feel like it. It should cost around 15$.
08-07-2003, 01:54 PM
#13
Tech Elite
clutch bell and shoes answers!
corvettecrazy;
From your pictures, several thing are obvious to me.
1) The Clutchbell IS rubbing on the Flywheel. (not a good thing)
2) The pilot shaft looks overheated from lack of lube on the Roller Bearing. (a tiny dab of grease is all that's needed)
The part # for the washers/shims is: Z694 (M5x10x.05)
The correct assembly order is, Washer, Bearing, Clutchbell, Washer, Retaining Screw.
And yes the MIP/HPI racing Clutch is 100% better ($15).
From your pictures, several thing are obvious to me.
1) The Clutchbell IS rubbing on the Flywheel. (not a good thing)
2) The pilot shaft looks overheated from lack of lube on the Roller Bearing. (a tiny dab of grease is all that's needed)
The part # for the washers/shims is: Z694 (M5x10x.05)
The correct assembly order is, Washer, Bearing, Clutchbell, Washer, Retaining Screw.
And yes the MIP/HPI racing Clutch is 100% better ($15).
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