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MRX-4X building brake pads/disc friction problem

MRX-4X building brake pads/disc friction problem

Old 05-17-2008, 10:15 PM
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Angry MRX-4X building brake pads/disc friction problem

Quick question for you guys...

I just built the rear bulkhead and need to know if the ventilated disc brake rubs on the teflon brake pads all the time on purpose as its design?

I swear the disc brake should rotate freely without any friction before applying any braking power purposely.

Did I do something wrong? Haha I did CA the pads to the metal plates.

The lower half of disc and brake pads have freeplay but the upper half portion are touching each part causing friction and not allowing 2speed axle to rotate freely enough, pretty notchy.

Anyone notice this happening too during build?
If so, is it supposed to be this way...how did you fix the problem?

-Jeff
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Old 05-17-2008, 10:52 PM
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The glue could made the pads thicker, just rub them on a piece of sandpaper to make them flat and a tiny bit thinner.
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Old 05-17-2008, 11:36 PM
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just shaved off the pads a lil on both sides in hopes of getting the pads symetrical and it helped a little, so I am just going to break in these pads when I practice on track. Hopefully it will be free afterwards.

Thanks for your help buddy!
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Old 05-18-2008, 05:03 AM
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I would check and make sure the disc is not binding on the three pins. It's designed to float on the pins a small amount. If so your disc will not rotate true. I just replaced my pad and also noticed the yellow teflon pads are just a tad taller than what I remember. The excess material at the top of the brake disc could also be binding up against the top plate. Since you said you glued them the other item that may be causing your problem is the HOLES may not be perfectly aligned on the plate / pad causing your pads to stick / drag on the mounting screws. Other than that you should have a smooth true running disc brake. Hope this helps...
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Old 05-18-2008, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by evostyle
I would check and make sure the disc is not binding on the three pins. It's designed to float on the pins a small amount. If so your disc will not rotate true. I just replaced my pad and also noticed the yellow teflon pads are just a tad taller than what I remember. The excess material at the top of the brake disc could also be binding up against the top plate. Since you said you glued them the other item that may be causing your problem is the HOLES may not be perfectly aligned on the plate / pad causing your pads to stick / drag on the mounting screws. Other than that you should have a smooth true running disc brake. Hope this helps...
Will definitely check out all of those areas and come back and talk about what I've found. If it matters at all, I am using T0154 eccentrics for the rear set at upper 90 degrees slot.

Found another binding issue: Front drive belt that rotates over middle/center pulley to front one-way pulley...problem is that the belt tightens through 25% out of its complete/full revolution...the other 75% is free and loose...I am using the H0188 as opposed to the T0154 eccentric hubs in front set at LOWER CENTER SLOT (90 degree)

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Old 05-18-2008, 03:53 PM
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I just really needed to shave those brake pads down about .25mm on both sides and doing that really helped smooth things out freely.

Now as far as the front drive belt...decided to change to the T0154 eccentrics upfront in lower/middle slot and took apart front one-way completely and inspected the 24T pulley for any abnormalities (I didn't find anything misleading)
I then proceeded the rebuild process carefully and surprisingly the front drive belt now only has about 5%-10% untrue circular rotation characteristics.

I guess nothing is perfect in each factory kit.
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