4LikesKyosho FW-05R
06-25-2004, 03:13 PM
#1936
They are part number : FMW 14 - 4518 (Front Springs).
They are 1.8 strength, kits are 1.7, so reds are 1 grade harder.
They are 1.8 strength, kits are 1.7, so reds are 1 grade harder.
06-25-2004, 04:35 PM
#1937
Originally posted by NiMo
The more I run this Kawahara chassis, the more I think it is for Foam tyre use only.
Today at the track I was coming in to the corner braking hard as usual when suddenly the car swapped ends big time, then when I tried to take the next few corners I would spin out under power.
When I got the car back to the pit area I found that a central Kawahara drive cup had come loose, then discovered that the part where the grub screw fits in was gone, I mean a big chunk of the drive cup was gone.
Close up of drive cup
Car shot
The more I run this Kawahara chassis, the more I think it is for Foam tyre use only.
Today at the track I was coming in to the corner braking hard as usual when suddenly the car swapped ends big time, then when I tried to take the next few corners I would spin out under power.
When I got the car back to the pit area I found that a central Kawahara drive cup had come loose, then discovered that the part where the grub screw fits in was gone, I mean a big chunk of the drive cup was gone.
Close up of drive cup
Car shot
06-26-2004, 12:43 AM
#1938
Originally posted by Marcos.S710
ouch! how did that happen?
ouch! how did that happen?
All I can think is the part is not strong enough for 4 wheel braking.
Even in the standard brake unit the pins would work there way loose.
One thing I was working on yesterday but never got to properly finish was the LSD in the front, I used it with the LSD red oil and straight away noticed I could get the car in to the corners but had a few spins coming out, then I removed the front roll bar and was able to use hard power out of the corner.
The car felt good but I never got as far as lap timing to see if it is worth staying with the LSD conversion, but it sure does remove that push going in to a corner.
06-26-2004, 06:25 AM
#1939
Originally posted by NiMo
I braked !!
All I can think is the part is not strong enough for 4 wheel braking.
Even in the standard brake unit the pins would work there way loose.
One thing I was working on yesterday but never got to properly finish was the LSD in the front, I used it with the LSD red oil and straight away noticed I could get the car in to the corners but had a few spins coming out, then I removed the front roll bar and was able to use hard power out of the corner.
The car felt good but I never got as far as lap timing to see if it is worth staying with the LSD conversion, but it sure does remove that push going in to a corner.
I braked !!
All I can think is the part is not strong enough for 4 wheel braking.
Even in the standard brake unit the pins would work there way loose.
One thing I was working on yesterday but never got to properly finish was the LSD in the front, I used it with the LSD red oil and straight away noticed I could get the car in to the corners but had a few spins coming out, then I removed the front roll bar and was able to use hard power out of the corner.
The car felt good but I never got as far as lap timing to see if it is worth staying with the LSD conversion, but it sure does remove that push going in to a corner.
06-26-2004, 07:16 AM
#1940
Tech Elite
Originally posted by Marcos.S710
i guess i will leave my car stock ,without the conversion,thats alot of money for those parts to break.I have no problems with the car the way it is now.
i guess i will leave my car stock ,without the conversion,thats alot of money for those parts to break.I have no problems with the car the way it is now.
06-26-2004, 08:35 AM
#1941
Jeff, Lucky or not tonight? 
06-26-2004, 08:41 AM
#1942
Originally posted by dino.tw
Jeff, Lucky or not tonight?
Jeff, Lucky or not tonight?
Oh well, a lesson learned. Hopefully I will do better next Sunday.
06-26-2004, 08:52 AM
#1943
Originally posted by jeffreylin
Dino, I should've listen to you and replace the pinion gears when my 1st gear spur stripped the first time. Even with the 51T it stripped again right before the main and I did not even get one lap in! The car was running good too! What a bummer. I did get lucky and won the 2nd prize raffle (NT$1,500). Of course it's all gone now as I immediately spent it all on parts.
Oh well, a lesson learned. Hopefully I will do better next Sunday.
Dino, I should've listen to you and replace the pinion gears when my 1st gear spur stripped the first time. Even with the 51T it stripped again right before the main and I did not even get one lap in! The car was running good too! What a bummer. I did get lucky and won the 2nd prize raffle (NT$1,500). Of course it's all gone now as I immediately spent it all on parts.
Oh well, a lesson learned. Hopefully I will do better next Sunday.
WHAT!!! YOU GOT LUCKY PRIZE!!! HOLY SHxT.....
It is no fair,I have joined the star light cup many times. But never get that lucky prize......U....
The star light cup is just a warmup match to you. You will meet many fast racers next Sunday. Don't forget the 22T/28T pinion gear. At least you need to try once and get report from AMB system. Your car is still not fast enough if you want to get A main ticket. Go~Go~Go~
06-26-2004, 09:53 PM
#1944
Im considering buying one of these cars. The main question I have is about the diff gears. I used to race a NTC3 and I gave it up because the gears were so easy to strip. Are the stock diff gears on this car made of plastic? And if so, how do they hold up?
Please let me know.
Please let me know.
06-26-2004, 09:59 PM
#1945
Originally posted by nitrodude
Im considering buying one of these cars. The main question I have is about the diff gears. I used to race a NTC3 and I gave it up because the gears were so easy to strip. Are the stock diff gears on this car made of plastic? And if so, how do they hold up?
Please let me know.
Im considering buying one of these cars. The main question I have is about the diff gears. I used to race a NTC3 and I gave it up because the gears were so easy to strip. Are the stock diff gears on this car made of plastic? And if so, how do they hold up?
Please let me know.
Now if you are talking about the ring/bevel gears they too are made of aluminum. I replaced mine with the optional steel ones and thet are bullet proof.
The pinion gears do wear out after a while though. I learn that last night...
06-26-2004, 10:16 PM
#1947
Originally posted by nitrodude
I actually meant the ring/bevel gears, how do those hold up?
I actually meant the ring/bevel gears, how do those hold up?
I would recommend that you replace them with the optional steel 39T ring gears. Aside from the fact they are stronger, they also free up the drivetrain considerably. There is a little weight penalty but well worth it in my opinion.
06-27-2004, 12:10 AM
#1948
Slight correction:
Stock diff rings are made from basic 'Cast Steel', and the upgrade diff rings are made from stronger 'Machined Steel'.
You would think fitting the little heavier machined rings would slow up your take off speed, but because the teeth are truer you actually get more take off speed.
The Kawahara diff rings are lighter and finer pitched and run even freer than the machined gears, so you lose nothing fitting these overgeared rings, and you never run out of revs as you use the smaller pinions.
I have just started using the Kfactory pinion gears and they appear to mesh better than the stock gears, hopefully they will last a little longer.
Stock diff rings are made from basic 'Cast Steel', and the upgrade diff rings are made from stronger 'Machined Steel'.
You would think fitting the little heavier machined rings would slow up your take off speed, but because the teeth are truer you actually get more take off speed.
The Kawahara diff rings are lighter and finer pitched and run even freer than the machined gears, so you lose nothing fitting these overgeared rings, and you never run out of revs as you use the smaller pinions.
I have just started using the Kfactory pinion gears and they appear to mesh better than the stock gears, hopefully they will last a little longer.
06-27-2004, 08:43 AM
#1949
Tech Regular
Hey Nimo,
To prevent getting dirt inside my car I have put a thin peace of carbonfolie under my car right onto the chassis.
It's a cheap and easy way of keeping dirt getting into you're gears.
I have polished the rings, aswell as the pivotballs.
This will make them more smooth and will in the front give a slightly better steering.
I run my car stock, and it feels realy well! It is nice to see that in the land of the Snake Kyosho and Mugen rules. Espacially on clubsman level!
To prevent getting dirt inside my car I have put a thin peace of carbonfolie under my car right onto the chassis.
It's a cheap and easy way of keeping dirt getting into you're gears.
I have polished the rings, aswell as the pivotballs.
This will make them more smooth and will in the front give a slightly better steering.
I run my car stock, and it feels realy well! It is nice to see that in the land of the Snake Kyosho and Mugen rules. Espacially on clubsman level!
06-27-2004, 11:38 AM
#1950
Originally posted by 840918001
Hey Nimo,
To prevent getting dirt inside my car I have put a thin peace of carbonfolie under my car right onto the chassis.
It's a cheap and easy way of keeping dirt getting into you're gears.
Hey Nimo,
To prevent getting dirt inside my car I have put a thin peace of carbonfolie under my car right onto the chassis.
It's a cheap and easy way of keeping dirt getting into you're gears.
1- The National scene does not allow any underbody/chassis aerodynamic aids, which includes taping over the chassis cut outs.
2- Most of our tracks have grass run offs, and blades of grass can get trapped in the chassis.
3- I run too many kerbs for it to last more than a heat (blame it on the car for being so kerb friendly), I'm already on my second chassis as new screws will not lay flush in the old chassis any more.