jscamry

iTrader: (5)

how do you find the best gearing for a certain track? The pic that I post about 4 post above is the size of my track, as it does change from month to month. I do not know the exact length of the back straight away, but if I had to guess I would say about 30-40ft. I would be using the stock 1.0m 2 speed setup not the optional one. I am trying to figure out which gears would be the best to get.....


p.s. when you setup the car, I would guess that it is best to tune the engine for the track then ajust the clutch per track conditions;finally choose the gearing...

oh yeah do you guys put bearings to replace the plastic bearings for the stearing? I already had the bearing kit that hpi sells but what about other other spots for steering..

let me know what you all think

Thanks J.

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

Quck question for you guys. I tried to setup my clutch as per the directions set by THE DOCTOR. But when I was running my car today, I went to turn off my car, but using a non sharp end of my screw driver on my flywheel and when I did this my thrust beaning and screw that holds the endplay all disassabled. what would cause this? Also my clutch was not engaging properly, it was engaging a bit on the late side, so this means that my nut was tighten.

I am not sure what I am doing wrong, any help would be appc.
I do have a caliper-http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47256

I am not sure if measuements would help

Thanks Jason.

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

when you guys put the thrust bearing and in/out plates on the collet 87102, did you guys have about a 1.39mm of space at the end?

Thanks Jason.

Rapid Roy

By looking at the picture, your track has a 120 to 130 foot straight with sweeper at the end of the straight. I would start by dropping one tooth on each of the 1st and 2nd gear pinions. Your engine should be topping out right near the end of straight. Your shift point should be set so that you stay in 1st gear on the entire infield. As for the order, you are correct, although you may want to change the clutch engagement after you change gearing.

With the steering, if you already installed the bearings, there isn't anything else you can buy and install. There were a number of guys who shimmed between the top of the steering plate and the top deck to keep the plate from moving upwards. You can try searching this thread, there were some pretty good explanations to remove slop from the steering. I personally don't really see the need though.


It almost sounds like you spun your flywheel. Check your flywheel nut and make sure its tight. The screw holding in the thrust bearing needs a bit of lock tight. Put a drop on the screw and wipe most of it off, then install it. I only tighten the clutch nut enough to show one or two turns of threads. This will give you a fairly low clutch engagement which is good for low to medium traction surfaces.

Try using CraigM's method to set up the clutch. It's more intuitive and much easier to do.

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

hi guys.....I'me finally getting around to selling on EBAY...so I've listed a few R40 options parts I have spares of..my ebay handle is
"therealfastharry".....they will be on tonite after 5 eastern....

sean nolan

Does any body know of any other belts that would fit the r40, rear or front.

Rapid Roy

The rear and front belts are the same. I don't know of any other ones that will fit. Are you having trouble buying the HPI ones?

sean nolan

Yeah parts are starting to deminish here in australia,do you know if HPI has stopped making parts.

Rapid Roy

HPI is still making parts. They still list the kit as current. Its just that the hobby shops aren't stocking the parts any more. I remember others from Australia saying that shipping from the far east shops is fairly inexpensive.

sean nolan

Well i have had the car for afew years now i think its time to try something new.Maybe a serpent, parts are plentyfull as we have a good importer.Thanks for the help.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

correct. www.rc-mushroom.com and shopping.rcmodel.hk are both pretty good for r40 parts and shipping to oz is cheap as chips

Serpents aren't very popular at the tracks here so you're more or less on your own for setups and trackside parts (unless you're at SMA). I know the importers and they are great guys though and the product is good, but I think you're better off with a RRR, NT1, or MTX4R - in that order

p.s. did i pit for you at moorebank?

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

Thanks to all that have helped me in the last week or so with my clutch, I was able to test my clutch the other day and it worked well!!! I need to find the time to do a bit of fine tuning for my race coming up in a few weeks!!


p.s which screw kit would you guys recommend? I want have spare screws, I do not know if I really need to go ti..
Thanks again,
Jason.

Rapid Roy

Glad it helped. How about a race report? How did you do in your heats? Mains? How did the car handle?

With the screws, I wouldn't bother with the TI set unless you get a really smoking deal on them. I have the stainless set from RC Screwz's on one R40 and the stock on the other. The hex heads really make thing easier and more reliable. The only down side is that they are all machine screw threads. The stock screws have wood screw threads where the screw goes into plastic parts. Using a screw with the machine threads takes a long time to thread into the plastic and also causes the plastic to heat up. You also might have to replace some of the plastic parts when you convert because the maching screws won't bite in the hole after having the wood screw in there.

Do you need any parts for your 2 speed. I have lots and lots of spur gears and pinion gears for the standard 2 speed. I'll sell you the whole lot for real cheap.

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

Well on the race, I had some issues with my engine. I came in last in my 1st qualifier, Then in 5th in my 2nd qualifier and finally 7th in the 3rd qualifier. Although I had all of the issues with the engine/clutch. I was able to finish 5th in the A main (which is a sportsman class non expert) What I found over all was that the car seemed the handle fine, however since I was having issues withe the engine, it seemed that my engeine was was a bit to rich and I had my clutch built as the manual set. With all that being said I was able to drive the car OK, not the way that I wanted it was not pulling. I did find that the did have a bit of push when going into a corner.With the lack of power and the car not launching hurt me when coming out of the turns and I did strip my 2nd gear, which was due to worn pinion gears.

I do not have my exact setting for the car infront of me, but what I recall.

ride height: 5rear 4front
oil: 50rear 60front
shocks all stock
toe: 2 rear 1front
camber -2rear -1front
diffs 4gear(f&r) 30kfront and 30krear
stock gearing

p.s. I am trying to get my engine setup and clutch tunned for the next race on april 6th. I was planning on going to a tack that is not prepped and setup some cones with last months track setup as it changes from month to month with a stop watch. I find this will allow me to tune my engine make clutch adjustments and make sure that I am make the 5mins quals with no issues (all though weather does play a factor with tuning)

Roy let me know about the gears and 2-speed [email protected]


Thanks Jason.

jameslow

iTrader: (1)

What engine are u using?