Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road
HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum >

HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum

Community
Wiki Posts
Search

HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-19-2007, 05:56 PM
  #11401  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
 
Artificial-I's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rurouni Kenshin
Posts: 3,459
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Is the body painted yet , if its still clear , just place body on top of posts and mark the posts. Make sure its perfectly straight on the car beforehand and that your getting the wheel wells to match the wheels correctly.
Artificial-I is offline  
Old 04-19-2007, 08:49 PM
  #11402  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
 
CraigM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 7,009
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

also use a reamer not a drill
CraigM is offline  
Old 04-19-2007, 09:34 PM
  #11403  
Tech Rookie
 
coolson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 18
Default

unfortunately, the body has been paint it. its my first car. is there a way to drill a perfect hole?

also. i notice that the poles at the back you can have 2 different position. which is a better position?

I have attached a photo.

Thanks!
Attached Thumbnails HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum-dsc_7735.jpg  
coolson is offline  
Old 04-20-2007, 01:45 AM
  #11404  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
 
CraigM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 7,009
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by coolson
unfortunately, the body has been paint it. its my first car. is there a way to drill a perfect hole?

also. i notice that the poles at the back you can have 2 different position. which is a better position?

I have attached a photo.

Thanks!
Colour (that's 'color' for you yanks ) in the top of the posts with a marker/felt pen, use an excessive amount of ink, then position the body over the posts while trying not to touch them. Once in position press down firmly to transfer some of the ink over to the body and use a reamer to cut the holes at the positions marked. Check how your body sits to determine what posts to use, i use the closer in ones but on some bodies they may be too close to the rear windscreen which you will need to remove for cooling
CraigM is offline  
Old 04-20-2007, 03:50 AM
  #11405  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Malta
Posts: 6
Default

Hi, the R40 that i'm going to puchase has alot of upgrades from 3 racing and other suppliers... it is not the hara but most probably this one has more than the hara edition if you do your calculation correct.... anyways parts from the country are rarely seen but online now a days you can do miracles, shipping in few days and i'm ok.... (best thing to do is to get some extra stuff just in case).

what engine do you think that will fit right and will beat all the rest?? axial and Orion are any good??

simons is offline  
Old 04-20-2007, 04:42 AM
  #11406  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
 
Artificial-I's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rurouni Kenshin
Posts: 3,459
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

JLR Red Dot .12 , fastest / cheapest .12 ive ever seen.
Artificial-I is offline  
Old 04-20-2007, 04:43 AM
  #11407  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
 
Artificial-I's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rurouni Kenshin
Posts: 3,459
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by coolson
unfortunately, the body has been paint it. its my first car. is there a way to drill a perfect hole?

also. i notice that the poles at the back you can have 2 different position. which is a better position?

I have attached a photo.

Thanks!
Chalk or grease the top of your body posts. Then you must make sure when laying down the body that it as straight as possible. Also kinda look at how it sits on the body if its over a bit normally that means it should be adjusted.
Artificial-I is offline  
Old 04-20-2007, 05:17 AM
  #11408  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
 
fastharry™'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Louisville, KY!.. USA!! ....Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,847
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by simons
Hi, the R40 that i'm going to puchase has alot of upgrades from 3 racing and other suppliers... it is not the hara but most probably this one has more than the hara edition if you do your calculation correct.... anyways parts from the country are rarely seen but online now a days you can do miracles, shipping in few days and i'm ok.... (best thing to do is to get some extra stuff just in case).

what engine do you think that will fit right and will beat all the rest?? axial and Orion are any good??


hop ups aren't the only thing that made the HARA better....a redesigned chassis,top deck and gas tank(for better weight distribution and balance) did......
fastharry™ is offline  
Old 04-20-2007, 06:58 AM
  #11409  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Malta
Posts: 6
Default

there is an available chassis from 3 racing that is light weight and looks good too... don't know about much of its performance on track tough....

the red dot engine is OS right??

Orion and Axial are of any good???
simons is offline  
Old 04-20-2007, 07:33 AM
  #11410  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
 
Artificial-I's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rurouni Kenshin
Posts: 3,459
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

As a whole , no orion and axial arent good. Even if your talking about the 12RR and the Team Orion CRF. They cost a good bit more , the CRF is a tad finiky and the RR isnt that fast, its a rebadged motor and costs even more than the JLR Red dot and CRF.

Another thing is there is scarce parts on the Axial , ok support on the CRF in certain places , better support for the Red Dot and will most likely get better as the year continues and people see the power for the price on the JLR. Which is a picco motor.

I saw a stock JLR beating out a Murnan CRF. With the CRF you gotta have perfect engagement for it, from what I see. Where as the JLR is a regular stock like motor , in fact its internals look almost completely stock. So I gather tuning on the JLR is easier. It seemed to be pouring out smoke and the power just jaw dropping.
Artificial-I is offline  
Old 04-20-2007, 08:38 AM
  #11411  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
 
fastharry™'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Louisville, KY!.. USA!! ....Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,847
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Artificial-I
As a whole , no orion and axial arent good. Even if your talking about the 12RR and the Team Orion CRF. They cost a good bit more , the CRF is a tad finiky and the RR isnt that fast, its a rebadged motor and costs even more than the JLR Red dot and CRF.

Another thing is there is scarce parts on the Axial , ok support on the CRF in certain places , better support for the Red Dot and will most likely get better as the year continues and people see the power for the price on the JLR. Which is a picco motor.

I saw a stock JLR beating out a Murnan CRF. With the CRF you gotta have perfect engagement for it, from what I see. Where as the JLR is a regular stock like motor , in fact its internals look almost completely stock. So I gather tuning on the JLR is easier. It seemed to be pouring out smoke and the power just jaw dropping.



you guys know I love RC....I love tech.......I can read through and understand anything RC....I'm not afraid to try anything.....

I downloaded the CRF instructions and started to read them......I stopped halfway through break in and tuning.........WAY,WAY too complicated..

I'll take a motor thats easy to tune,work on,and rebuild and has a UNDERSTANDABLE powerband.......(as far as clutch settings,etc)....that last nth of HP is useless if you can't finish a race.....
fastharry™ is offline  
Old 04-20-2007, 09:40 AM
  #11412  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
 
CraigM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 7,009
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

OK i don't understand the engine business, but aren't the picco's built by nova and almost identical to the LRP .12s? If this is the case, I'd suspect their durability is not on par with the TZ engines. The JLR may be very fast, but if you have to rebuild every 5 litres then if you're club racing or racing on a budget you're better off with a more durable donk
CraigM is offline  
Old 04-20-2007, 10:02 AM
  #11413  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
 
stefanos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Athens,Greece
Posts: 67
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

coolson in your pic,what is the grey thing that covers your exuste front part?
stefanos is offline  
Old 04-20-2007, 10:31 AM
  #11414  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Malta
Posts: 6
Default

well the picco engine is fastfor sure.. there is the idm from picco which is scary too..... but as someone else said it might not be reliable so in that case OS might be another option.
simons is offline  
Old 04-20-2007, 08:04 PM
  #11415  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 366
Default

I run a OFNA Picco .12 with a RDLogics Turbo II pipe, a MotorSaver filter, LW shafts, and LW transmission. I paid $100 for the motor at Nitrohouse and it runs as strong as almost everything else I've seen on the track.

http://www.ofna.com/eng-picco-roar.html
rossb is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.