HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
01-08-2007, 01:36 AM
well for this upcoming season i'm going to stick with my R40 so far I've had little to no issues with it. I can keep up with the fast guys on the straight and in the turns at least until I not the car screws up. it's built a lot stronger then most of the other cars I've seen and it can take a mild beating, since I swaped out the original clutch shoe for a Red Delta shoe I've had nothing but pleasure from the clutch setup, I may not have all the latest and greatest tech and hopups but I really don't need them to have fun and be competative against anyone out there. Ok maybe not anyone but you get my meaning. Shame on HPI for not supporting the car even a 10th as much as they support the savage Parts support in my area has been non existant from the beggining the internet has been kind to me so far. I still get a kick out of the guys at the track that turn there nose up at my R40 until I take it out on the track and they are surprised at how well it performs makes my day everytime to see the look of shock on some faces some still thick of the car as a gloryfied RS4.
Anyway long story short I race my R40 till It dies a horrible death (or until I find something else I like as much and it won't be mugen, serpent or kyosho, just don't care for any of the big three.)
Anyway long story short I race my R40 till It dies a horrible death (or until I find something else I like as much and it won't be mugen, serpent or kyosho, just don't care for any of the big three.)
01-08-2007, 01:54 PM
Dont get me wrong. I love my r40. Its probably as fast as a mtx-4 as it is, probably faster. Since it weighs under illegal weight.
But its parts are too hard to find and keep track of. Its clutch needs work (notably the flywheel pins). Which once the pins are messed with, they will keep slipping and sliding back and forth and its near impossible to get them to stay no matter what trick you use.
The clutchbell/pinion tools from hpi dont work with removing pinion gears. The clutch disc in my opinion doesnt work well either that means your always reaming a mugen and that doesnt seem to help as the holes are always funky afterwards. The bearings are exposed on the clutchbell. The system that holds them in place is also flawed. So I will always end up having to buy a mugen set. Which then I need to enlarge the chassis holes to get correct alignment and even then its still a tad iffy on my side. The wiring is also very tight.
I do think the hara edition they did get things pretty right with the chassis, it also seems well balanced from left to right. But next is theres fading option support and even then not really much in the first place or hard to find bits and pieces again from asia. There are also some issues with durability on a few parts:
Bending dog bones , knuckles and joints popping off the pillow balls , moving pillow balls , moving rear upper camber links. Ive nearly had to trick every piece of my car to get it to hold settings or not break.
Therefore making it hard for me to let go of my current build , even when it probably could be retired and move onto a new chassis in which I would have to invest quite a bit of time and money again to just get this thing right all which needs tweaks. I want to run cg arms , but Id have to work the arms for a couple of days to get them right. Also the good parts cost an arm and a leg from hpi. 80-90 dollars for ti pillowballs , where as you can find aftermarket support for the other cars for 1/3 that price. The rear sway bar , the stainless brake disc, the v2 shocks all hard to find and exspensive.
On the flip side I think the mugen has more rear grip , more durability , better parts support , better tuning support , better clutch, holds its settings better. The rest is pretty equal. But it just seems easier to race with.
I love my hpi , but Its just not friendly to me anymore. If something goes wrong , which it did just recently blow out my cg arms and well Im stuck because to run new ones the car would be very stiff if not impossible without special working of the arms to get them loose. To run the adjustable sway bar in the rear you either need the new hara arms (which you cant get without buying the hara kit or the cg arms...which I have but it presents the problem above).
Id love to stick with it fully but the mtx-4 seems a better deal for me. Now my only problem is finding one at a good price. My budget it terrible right now due to job/fund problems. Work has cut back and im kicking myself that I wasted who knows what kinda money on getting this car equal to a stock mugen. Ill have to admit I will be back , but not before seeing how the waters test out with the new hpi/hotbodies car.
I feel bad for pointing out the downfalls of the car in comparison to the mugen. But its all become way to clear.
I still think all the r40 users are awesome and hope to see you guys around, in fact I wish we could all just migrate to another car. But its a matter of time before the prospec comes out and so forth , so hold onto those r40's as long as you can cause I see in the near future some really hot cars coming out that have far less problems , more durability , better driving , wider sweet spot, easier adjusting , easier maintenance setups (like motors that can pop right out) or 2 screws and the rear end comes off kinda thing. I know kyosho and mugen are somewhat due for a new one over hpi's more recent and delayed release of the hara. Which is how things always go in the hobby. Were always getting better and I think one more step and ill be pretty happy with however we go. That is if hpi moves to the standards of what mugen or kyosho will be setting on there next gen cars.
Ive never driven anything else than hpi for on-road and Id wish to stick with the car , but everything mentioned. I think my r40 career ends here. So with this, Ill stick around and will post as I can, but this will be my last post on the r40.
Much thanks to everyone: FastHarry , AMGracer some of the most helpful r40 guys ive met on here.
And good bye to everyone Ive spoken to or dealt with in here. Hope to see you soon.
-- A.I.
But its parts are too hard to find and keep track of. Its clutch needs work (notably the flywheel pins). Which once the pins are messed with, they will keep slipping and sliding back and forth and its near impossible to get them to stay no matter what trick you use.
The clutchbell/pinion tools from hpi dont work with removing pinion gears. The clutch disc in my opinion doesnt work well either that means your always reaming a mugen and that doesnt seem to help as the holes are always funky afterwards. The bearings are exposed on the clutchbell. The system that holds them in place is also flawed. So I will always end up having to buy a mugen set. Which then I need to enlarge the chassis holes to get correct alignment and even then its still a tad iffy on my side. The wiring is also very tight.
I do think the hara edition they did get things pretty right with the chassis, it also seems well balanced from left to right. But next is theres fading option support and even then not really much in the first place or hard to find bits and pieces again from asia. There are also some issues with durability on a few parts:
Bending dog bones , knuckles and joints popping off the pillow balls , moving pillow balls , moving rear upper camber links. Ive nearly had to trick every piece of my car to get it to hold settings or not break.
Therefore making it hard for me to let go of my current build , even when it probably could be retired and move onto a new chassis in which I would have to invest quite a bit of time and money again to just get this thing right all which needs tweaks. I want to run cg arms , but Id have to work the arms for a couple of days to get them right. Also the good parts cost an arm and a leg from hpi. 80-90 dollars for ti pillowballs , where as you can find aftermarket support for the other cars for 1/3 that price. The rear sway bar , the stainless brake disc, the v2 shocks all hard to find and exspensive.
On the flip side I think the mugen has more rear grip , more durability , better parts support , better tuning support , better clutch, holds its settings better. The rest is pretty equal. But it just seems easier to race with.
I love my hpi , but Its just not friendly to me anymore. If something goes wrong , which it did just recently blow out my cg arms and well Im stuck because to run new ones the car would be very stiff if not impossible without special working of the arms to get them loose. To run the adjustable sway bar in the rear you either need the new hara arms (which you cant get without buying the hara kit or the cg arms...which I have but it presents the problem above).
Id love to stick with it fully but the mtx-4 seems a better deal for me. Now my only problem is finding one at a good price. My budget it terrible right now due to job/fund problems. Work has cut back and im kicking myself that I wasted who knows what kinda money on getting this car equal to a stock mugen. Ill have to admit I will be back , but not before seeing how the waters test out with the new hpi/hotbodies car.
I feel bad for pointing out the downfalls of the car in comparison to the mugen. But its all become way to clear.
I still think all the r40 users are awesome and hope to see you guys around, in fact I wish we could all just migrate to another car. But its a matter of time before the prospec comes out and so forth , so hold onto those r40's as long as you can cause I see in the near future some really hot cars coming out that have far less problems , more durability , better driving , wider sweet spot, easier adjusting , easier maintenance setups (like motors that can pop right out) or 2 screws and the rear end comes off kinda thing. I know kyosho and mugen are somewhat due for a new one over hpi's more recent and delayed release of the hara. Which is how things always go in the hobby. Were always getting better and I think one more step and ill be pretty happy with however we go. That is if hpi moves to the standards of what mugen or kyosho will be setting on there next gen cars.
Ive never driven anything else than hpi for on-road and Id wish to stick with the car , but everything mentioned. I think my r40 career ends here. So with this, Ill stick around and will post as I can, but this will be my last post on the r40.
Much thanks to everyone: FastHarry , AMGracer some of the most helpful r40 guys ive met on here.
And good bye to everyone Ive spoken to or dealt with in here. Hope to see you soon.
-- A.I.
Last edited by Artificial-I; 01-08-2007 at 06:34 PM.
01-08-2007, 04:15 PM
come on dude not posting in R40 thread? becouse you want an other car? pff thats not right man you know lot for your car and posting here would be helpfull.
And now back to the subject of the thread :P
i run the HPi 12 engine on my car and its realy good(i dint expect that)the engine has very good treadment for 6 months but the last 2 days the motor start geting lot hot (over 130c)that couse my glow plug to need change,i gave more fuel to the engine and tryed a colder glow plug ,the car was runing great i could say superb great and then sudently stoped with a bad sound
i open the engine and find out that the stick that hold the piston(dont know the word for this :P)has broken...and i dint abuse the car ...any ideas why the hell hapent? you think that the extreme hot could couse that?
thnx in advance
stefanos
And now back to the subject of the thread :P
i run the HPi 12 engine on my car and its realy good(i dint expect that)the engine has very good treadment for 6 months but the last 2 days the motor start geting lot hot (over 130c)that couse my glow plug to need change,i gave more fuel to the engine and tryed a colder glow plug ,the car was runing great i could say superb great and then sudently stoped with a bad sound
i open the engine and find out that the stick that hold the piston(dont know the word for this :P)has broken...and i dint abuse the car ...any ideas why the hell hapent? you think that the extreme hot could couse that?thnx in advance
stefanos
01-08-2007, 04:38 PM
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Dont get me wrong. I love my r40. Its probably as fast as a mtx-4 as it is, probably faster. Since it weighs under illegal weight.
01-08-2007, 06:23 PM
Originally Posted by itchy b
if you have the old mugen pinion tool it won't be any good either because the clutchbell and pinions are smaller sized than the Mtx3 clutch is.
i haven't driven an R40 but changing from my G4 to the Mugen first time out it was quicker than my old car.
once you set them up in their sweet spot you will be kicking some opponent but AI
I wnt from the B main to the A main straight away, the first day
i haven't driven an R40 but changing from my G4 to the Mugen first time out it was quicker than my old car.
once you set them up in their sweet spot you will be kicking some opponent but AI
I wnt from the B main to the A main straight away, the first day
01-08-2007, 06:25 PM
Originally Posted by stefanos
come on dude not posting in R40 thread? becouse you want an other car? pff thats not right man you know lot for your car and posting here would be helpfull.
And now back to the subject of the thread :P
i run the HPi 12 engine on my car and its realy good(i dint expect that)the engine has very good treadment for 6 months but the last 2 days the motor start geting lot hot (over 130c)that couse my glow plug to need change,i gave more fuel to the engine and tryed a colder glow plug ,the car was runing great i could say superb great and then sudently stoped with a bad sound i open the engine and find out that the stick that hold the piston(dont know the word for this :P)has broken...and i dint abuse the car ...any ideas why the hell hapent? you think that the extreme hot could couse that?
thnx in advance
stefanos
And now back to the subject of the thread :P
i run the HPi 12 engine on my car and its realy good(i dint expect that)the engine has very good treadment for 6 months but the last 2 days the motor start geting lot hot (over 130c)that couse my glow plug to need change,i gave more fuel to the engine and tryed a colder glow plug ,the car was runing great i could say superb great and then sudently stoped with a bad sound
i open the engine and find out that the stick that hold the piston(dont know the word for this :P)has broken...and i dint abuse the car ...any ideas why the hell hapent? you think that the extreme hot could couse that?thnx in advance
stefanos
But in terms of talking about the r40 on my own. Thats my last one.
Also the stick is the con-rod. Extreme hot can cause it because it will allow pre-detonation. A lot of the times though its a combo of factors. But pre-detonation , which is the chamber firing off before the con-rod reaching near the top of its stroke. Will put extra stress on the con-rod.
01-08-2007, 06:38 PM
Originally Posted by Deeds
What is the legal weight? My R40 weighs in at 1.79 kg or 3.95 # at a dry race weight.
This includes chassis , body , transponder , no fuel in gas tank.
Ive defeated this using as many cf and cg parts that are available for the car. As well as lightweight battery , servos and the spektrum micro reciever.
01-08-2007, 11:34 PM
AI, I don't blame you for jumping ship. I would do exactly the same thing if I raced more. I'm pretty sure I'd pick the Mugen too. I do think that some of your reasons don't really hold water. Here is one post from the MTX-4 thread.
Your use of option parts and upgrades and lightened parts happen on any chassis. Thats what makes this such a great hobby. There's always somthing that can be tweaked or hopped up.
I do agree with you on your other points though. I'm gonna drive mine into the ground just like you. I do have a couple of years worth of spare parts so I shouldn't have any problems. Of course, now that I've said that, I'll break all of my left knuckles or some part like that
I think everyone will miss your posts and experiments on our aging chassis.
Originally Posted by kidDynomite
Seisick, it's been a while, but I had weighed the Ti screws before installing and then as I pulled the stock screws off I placed them on the scale. If I remember correctly, the stock screws weighed in at about 89-90g. And the Ti's were about 40-45g. But I decided to use aluminum screws for mounting the spur gears and for the diff housings to reduce rotating mass. So I lost a few more g's there as well. I would suggest not to use Ti screws for your engine mounts.
For you weight weenies, here are a few other misc. weight specs I did record:
Stock Main Shaft = 22g vs. Sato Hollow Shaft = 14g
Stock Front Shaft = 12g vs. Sato Ti Shaft = 4g
Mugen Option Brake Disc = 13g vs. PDub Fiber Glass Disc = 3g
I previously drilled out the stock 1st & 2nd gear housings, which weigh as much as the Kawahara's 1st & 2nd. I also milled out the stock pulley adaptors which knocked off 2g per piece. The stock brake pulley adaptor lost 3g and now weighs the same as the Kfactory. Drilled out the spur gears and lost 1.5g per gear. As far as the pulley adaptors go, just buy the MSRs. Trying to lighten the stock ones was a pain to loose significant weigh and keep it balanced at the same time. Plus you'll need a mill, drill press, a prop or wheel balance tool if you do it yourself.
For you weight weenies, here are a few other misc. weight specs I did record:
Stock Main Shaft = 22g vs. Sato Hollow Shaft = 14g
Stock Front Shaft = 12g vs. Sato Ti Shaft = 4g
Mugen Option Brake Disc = 13g vs. PDub Fiber Glass Disc = 3g
I previously drilled out the stock 1st & 2nd gear housings, which weigh as much as the Kawahara's 1st & 2nd. I also milled out the stock pulley adaptors which knocked off 2g per piece. The stock brake pulley adaptor lost 3g and now weighs the same as the Kfactory. Drilled out the spur gears and lost 1.5g per gear. As far as the pulley adaptors go, just buy the MSRs. Trying to lighten the stock ones was a pain to loose significant weigh and keep it balanced at the same time. Plus you'll need a mill, drill press, a prop or wheel balance tool if you do it yourself.
I do agree with you on your other points though. I'm gonna drive mine into the ground just like you. I do have a couple of years worth of spare parts so I shouldn't have any problems. Of course, now that I've said that, I'll break all of my left knuckles or some part like that
I think everyone will miss your posts and experiments on our aging chassis.
01-09-2007, 05:12 AM
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Is there a new mugen tool. If so ill keep an eye out for it.
Sorry i don't have the part number though.
01-09-2007, 05:16 AM
Originally Posted by itchy b
here is a pic of the new tool set.
Sorry i don't have the part number though.
Sorry i don't have the part number though.
01-09-2007, 05:21 AM
Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
AI, I don't blame you for jumping ship. I would do exactly the same thing if I raced more. I'm pretty sure I'd pick the Mugen too. I do think that some of your reasons don't really hold water. Here is one post from the MTX-4 thread.
Your use of option parts and upgrades and lightened parts happen on any chassis. Thats what makes this such a great hobby. There's always somthing that can be tweaked or hopped up.
I do agree with you on your other points though. I'm gonna drive mine into the ground just like you. I do have a couple of years worth of spare parts so I shouldn't have any problems. Of course, now that I've said that, I'll break all of my left knuckles or some part like that
I think everyone will miss your posts and experiments on our aging chassis.
Your use of option parts and upgrades and lightened parts happen on any chassis. Thats what makes this such a great hobby. There's always somthing that can be tweaked or hopped up.
I do agree with you on your other points though. I'm gonna drive mine into the ground just like you. I do have a couple of years worth of spare parts so I shouldn't have any problems. Of course, now that I've said that, I'll break all of my left knuckles or some part like that
I think everyone will miss your posts and experiments on our aging chassis.
As well he was an electric driver for on-road and while im having trouble with my r40 clutch for an entire season , he goes and builds his first stock mugen clutch and it ran perfect and he is always #1 or #2 at our track for the entire nitro class. Just goes to show its a more friendly car in my opinion.
He has done barely anything to the car mod wise and all the time he is running at the front with guys who have been in the nitro class for years. More or less im just going to test out new waters and see where it takes me.
01-09-2007, 05:21 AM
Originally Posted by Nitro$junkie
part number (MUG BO532)
01-09-2007, 05:26 AM
Originally Posted by itchy b
Thanks Nitro$junkie
01-09-2007, 06:04 AM
Artificial-I
I share your views on the R40. Great car, but we have to move on if you want to stay competitive.
I've always looked at the mugens in the pits and thought, it looks very similar to any other parts.
So I eventually got my kit(mtx-4) and I'm building it now.
You only realize the differences when you actually build the kit. It is way more easier to work on. The plastic that is used on the car is also of a better quality.
Even the small parts are better. Things such as the bladders for the shocks. I could clearly see that allot of time have been put into this car. Simple thing like linkages on the car, does not require a bold and nut at each end. They use "grub screw/studs" that turns into the plastic. The ball in the link screws directly onto the stud. Saving all the bolts and nuts. (things that could get lost.)
The pulleys on the shafts are held in place by grub screws and not those small pins that keeps on falling out when you work on the car. The whole braking mechanism is also a better design. The kit comes standard with a one way, and most of the parts to create a solid spool as well.
There are a couple of things where the R40 is better. The hara have the CVD as standard parts. with the MTX-4 it is still dog bones. The screws that holds the engine mounting onto the chassis is thinner than the R40 ones. I can see why some guys have a problem where their engines move and they strip second gears.
Please note that this is only my opinion of these cars. I'm NOT trying to get anyone to move over to the MTX-4 or another car. I'm just giving feedback on what I've seen on these two kits, for those guys that are interested in the comparisons between the cars.
I still love my R40, but the MTX-4 is catching up very Quickly.
I share your views on the R40. Great car, but we have to move on if you want to stay competitive.
I've always looked at the mugens in the pits and thought, it looks very similar to any other parts.
So I eventually got my kit(mtx-4) and I'm building it now.
You only realize the differences when you actually build the kit. It is way more easier to work on. The plastic that is used on the car is also of a better quality.
Even the small parts are better. Things such as the bladders for the shocks. I could clearly see that allot of time have been put into this car. Simple thing like linkages on the car, does not require a bold and nut at each end. They use "grub screw/studs" that turns into the plastic. The ball in the link screws directly onto the stud. Saving all the bolts and nuts. (things that could get lost.)
The pulleys on the shafts are held in place by grub screws and not those small pins that keeps on falling out when you work on the car. The whole braking mechanism is also a better design. The kit comes standard with a one way, and most of the parts to create a solid spool as well.
There are a couple of things where the R40 is better. The hara have the CVD as standard parts. with the MTX-4 it is still dog bones. The screws that holds the engine mounting onto the chassis is thinner than the R40 ones. I can see why some guys have a problem where their engines move and they strip second gears.
Please note that this is only my opinion of these cars. I'm NOT trying to get anyone to move over to the MTX-4 or another car. I'm just giving feedback on what I've seen on these two kits, for those guys that are interested in the comparisons between the cars.
I still love my R40, but the MTX-4 is catching up very Quickly.
01-09-2007, 06:44 AM
Originally Posted by ProE
Artificial-I
I share your views on the R40. Great car, but we have to move on if you want to stay competitive.
I've always looked at the mugens in the pits and thought, it looks very similar to any other parts.
So I eventually got my kit(mtx-4) and I'm building it now.
You only realize the differences when you actually build the kit. It is way more easier to work on. The plastic that is used on the car is also of a better quality.
Even the small parts are better. Things such as the bladders for the shocks. I could clearly see that allot of time have been put into this car. Simple thing like linkages on the car, does not require a bold and nut at each end. They use "grub screw/studs" that turns into the plastic. The ball in the link screws directly onto the stud. Saving all the bolts and nuts. (things that could get lost.)
The pulleys on the shafts are held in place by grub screws and not those small pins that keeps on falling out when you work on the car. The whole braking mechanism is also a better design. The kit comes standard with a one way, and most of the parts to create a solid spool as well.
There are a couple of things where the R40 is better. The hara have the CVD as standard parts. with the MTX-4 it is still dog bones. The screws that holds the engine mounting onto the chassis is thinner than the R40 ones. I can see why some guys have a problem where their engines move and they strip second gears.
Please note that this is only my opinion of these cars. I'm NOT trying to get anyone to move over to the MTX-4 or another car. I'm just giving feedback on what I've seen on these two kits, for those guys that are interested in the comparisons between the cars.
I still love my R40, but the MTX-4 is catching up very Quickly.
I share your views on the R40. Great car, but we have to move on if you want to stay competitive.
I've always looked at the mugens in the pits and thought, it looks very similar to any other parts.
So I eventually got my kit(mtx-4) and I'm building it now.
You only realize the differences when you actually build the kit. It is way more easier to work on. The plastic that is used on the car is also of a better quality.
Even the small parts are better. Things such as the bladders for the shocks. I could clearly see that allot of time have been put into this car. Simple thing like linkages on the car, does not require a bold and nut at each end. They use "grub screw/studs" that turns into the plastic. The ball in the link screws directly onto the stud. Saving all the bolts and nuts. (things that could get lost.)
The pulleys on the shafts are held in place by grub screws and not those small pins that keeps on falling out when you work on the car. The whole braking mechanism is also a better design. The kit comes standard with a one way, and most of the parts to create a solid spool as well.
There are a couple of things where the R40 is better. The hara have the CVD as standard parts. with the MTX-4 it is still dog bones. The screws that holds the engine mounting onto the chassis is thinner than the R40 ones. I can see why some guys have a problem where their engines move and they strip second gears.
Please note that this is only my opinion of these cars. I'm NOT trying to get anyone to move over to the MTX-4 or another car. I'm just giving feedback on what I've seen on these two kits, for those guys that are interested in the comparisons between the cars.
I still love my R40, but the MTX-4 is catching up very Quickly.
Even amgracer has noted that the mtx-4 is indeed faster, so im looking forward to that but I would like to see what his thoughts are on the build/maintenance and problems of the mtx-4 vs the r40.
I also believe he now drives the mtx-4 over the r40 as well. Its funny this whole thing just reminds me how we are all getting older. Always sad to let things go , especially when a lot of time and work has been put into learning my r40. But thats the good part of the mugen. I believe its an easier to read car and quicker to pick up.
Keep us updated , or perhaps we should move to another thread as I dont want to disturb the r40 chats going on. I almost dont want to leave. Ha. Maybe we should make an R40 -> Mugen mtx-4 owners thread...heh.