Hey guys. Little update on a few things. I swapped my new AI Modified motor in the car tonight. Its my new d3r that Ive done an actual hard tweak to the crank
Ill let you know how it runs vs stock.
I then went and got a full setup so I can swap motors very quickly in a race or otherwise. Motor mounts , flywheel , clutch , gears etc. Well this time I went to build the clutch and I figured I would use the black shoe from hpi. Since its given me trouble before. I sometimes like to conquer problems that Ive had. Just to do it. I also find this helps me learn more things about the car and helps point me in the right direction of whats wrong.
Well anyways it seems to be the lowest engagement ive gotten yet. Which is what a lot of us are striving for , heck a lot of us would be good with a medium to low....but I just cant stand getting on the throttle and just hearing the car rev real high and go no where.
Well Ive been reading the mytsn section over and over and over. This time I came back to it and its been said before. But why the heck does hpi put the shims behind the thrust bearing rather than in front of it?
Well I said screw it and just went for the mytsn style. Next instead of adjusting the stupid thing on the car. When assembling I went and loosened it as much as possible. What you want to look at is the screw , as soon as it shows up past the clutch adjuster nut. You stop. I then place a bearing on there to verify its not going to touch. I then this time put a shim on that spot to prevent it from rubbing.
Next. I kept adding shims , until it seems the gap wasnt decreasing. So Ive heard of this before but its not really right in my eyes or not explanitory enough.
But I then went and took the whole thing completely off and removed the flywheel. Then grabbed the hpi collet and used that instead of the one included with the motor. I then even placed another shim behind the collet to see if this helped.
I then went and reassambled the clutch again and this time used the same shims that were in it before and tada. The gap was reduced and it just felt very right.
Now I havent driven it on track but its spinning the wheels on the box at a much lower rpm and it sounds right for once. Its very nice to hear this.
I also went and installed the spool. Well see how it is to actually drive the car with brakes now...never done that before. LOL. I have the 2004 which includes the one-way so Ive never swapped....but it seems like its ready to go.
I also got 4 digital scales and went and checked tweak with my previous motor on and it was nearly perfect left to right.
But here is a quick list of how to get your r40 clutch right.
Step #1 - Trim flywheel posts to hide under the clutch shoe , not poke out.
Step #2 - Use hpi flywheel collet , I think it just gives you the correct spacing.
Step #3 - Make sure the clutch shoe can move up and down easily on the flywheel posts. Especially watch this if you use the mugen shoes.
Step #4 - Set the clutch adjuster screw as far out as possible , use a shim on top of it.
Step #5 - Make the gap (wobble back and forth) as close as possible.
Then go from there. Ive had success with also scaring up the CB and clutch pads. But this time didnt do it and I have a feeling you probably dont need to if its done right.