Thammer

So you are looking for an R40. I have a Very, very good unit to sell.
1st place A-main at the Mentor, OH Midwest Series race in 2004 and 2nd Place in the A-main at the Toledo, OH Midwest Series race in 2005.

The car is set up for an RC track and not parking lot. Drive train is very free and with the correct motor She is a Screaming Monkey.

R-40 comes with the following parts hope up parts on the car.
Competition Shocks.
Front one way
Light weight Super Chassis
4 gear rear diff.
Light weight shafts.
Graphite side brace
Light weight 2-speed must have
Many Titan. screws.
Reciever pack
Used KO servos.
Graphite Front and Rear Shock towers

Most of a second kit for spare parts. Lots of extra plastic
+
extra Light weight 2-speed
Solid rear axle
4 or 5 extra light weight pinions and spur gears.
A few extra shock springs
extra sway bars.
extra dog bones.

If you would like a new motor for this ride, let me know.
Available, new Nova Rossi N12 LL3 or new Top TSR 12 S3 - Mot Mod
New Nova Rossi pipe and header or new RD logics pipe and header.

Car shipping from Ohio.

ChrisR40

iTrader: (4)

sounds like a good car. what is the price? I am not looking but somebody maybe.

A-I

On the rear camber links I am having a problem with stripping when I hit a pipe (wall). I know to fix this dont hit the wall hahaha. Were you talking about using Tmaxx camber link ends to fix this problem or is there another fix that you are working on. Last but not least are we even talking about the same thing.

Have a good weekend all and put the R40 in first

Thanks

Chris

Need any spares for the R40, I got them. Shoot me a PM

Thammer

Very good car with servos, reciever pack and parts R 40 kit plus extra spares = $338
Nova Rossi 12 = $238 Top-Hot Mod = $248
Nova Rossi pipe kit = $58 RD Logics Turbo II = $48
Plus shipping

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Yeah Im still working on it. I think im going to talk with FastHarry about it. Yeah a good fix is to not hit the walls. I swear Im just brushing them....but Im looking at either.

1. 5X24mm turnbuckles. Basically 1mm thicker and 4mm longer. I think the standard is 20mm. This should really tighten the grab with the hpi rod end on the turnbuckle.

2. Another traxxas rod that can fit the hpi ball. Id say the traxxas t-maxx rod / rear camber link is perfect material. It was very tight and doesnt bend easily like the hpi rod end. I think it would be near impossible for it to misthread / collapse / stripping.

I just got all the wrong sizes. But this time I think im going to get it and ill let you guys know what parts they were.

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

I was using the proline TMAXX ball ends and lunsford buckles.....(

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

What size turnbuckle were you using? The stock size is 4X20mm. I was thinking on getting 4X24mm and 5X20mm.

bummy

hey sumone buy my hpi r40 it on the australian forsale forum.
700 au and ya can have it, comes with motor and starter box.
sick of nitro, and no point have a flashy nice car here no decent tracks around

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Sick of nitro? For what reason? Nitro is great! I sold my R40 too, but I'm still in nitro.

impdog

iTrader: (10)

what futuba servos will we need for our R40 , reliability not money is the issue thanks for the help....

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Futaba 9451 digital servo for $80 gets my vote for steering. You can use a standard futaba S3003 for throttle. Plenty of power and braking. You really don't want the brakes to lock up anyway...especially with a oneway diff.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

If money is no object. Then Futaba s9550 servos all around. Low profile and Low weight and about as good as the 9451.

But s3003 is nice too if you need extra weight savings and longer runtimes on the battery. AMG was saying he got better braking though with a higher quality servo. Havent really been able to test that as I dont have the teflon brake pads..but will be making some soon.

indy_rc

I am thinking of buying a nitro r40 hara edition butam worried about a few things.
1) I am new to the hobby. I have a 4-tec and have been bashing with it for awhile. I have rebuilt the front and the rear due to crashes.
2) I am worried about putting the car together. ALthough I have rebuilt the other car I am worried about this becoming a huge project. I want to geta car that i can start racing with.

am i worried for nothing?

Rapid Roy

HPI assembly manuals are as good as they get. Just take your time and you should be fine. You can also come here to the BEST thread here on RCtech if you have any questions.

indy_rc

thanks man.i apppreciate it

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Took me about 3 days of just on and off assembling here and there. Just double check everything so it goes together right.

First night I got pretty far , the rest I kinda double checked or fixed or installed different upgrades I had already purchased.

If you dont slack you can get it done in one night. But your first time youll want to probably take your time and double check , but its pretty simple. Just assemble like a machine would. Make sure the arms are nice and free.

Do as many of the same process all at once. Dont just build one shock at a time. Build all shocks same step across all 4 , then onto the next for all 4....so its like step 4 , 4 times. Instead of 1 2 3 4 , 4 different times. This way your repeating and when you repeat you go faster cause your motions adjust and become more efficient with what your doing and it goes together faster without noticing any extra effort. As well its fresh in your head so your not re-reading instructions over and over again.