R40LV

I email Ron and he saids that he isnt selling/carrying Twister Tires anymore and he is going with another brand.... cant remember off the top of my head.....

cars.cars.cars

i am not new to nitro but new to on-road. i have the HPI nitro mt with 2 speed, and associated rc10gt. i am looking at eith the Associated Nitro TC3 Factory kit (im likein the it A LOT), or an hpi. can anyone send me in the right direction as to what to choose and if hpi what one. (HPI Nitro RS4 3 Evo, HPI R40, or HPI Nitro RS4 3 18SS) it is mostly for street racing and club parking lot racing. if there is a good car with these paramiters post it so i can look into it.

I want it to be a kit though.

I am looking for a shaft driven NOT BELT, 2 speed, and has very good overall speed!! (i will be doing some drag rceing with freinds)

Thank you!!!

rossb

I tried to screw the two spring loaded hex head screws into the shoes and the 2mm hex heads stripped out almost immediately. I ground a small slot into the head of the screws and I attempted to screw them in with a screwdriver.

The instructions say to "Gently tighten both screws until they touch the spring collar, then loosen them 3 turns." When they say "until they touch the spring collar" I assumed they mean the small brass pipe that sits on the screw under the spring. I struggled with the small screws but I was not able to get them to fully tighten to the point where they touched the collar. I eventually twisted so hard that I completely broke one of the screw heads, but I was still unable to get the screw to touch the collar.

What a terrible design. There is no way I could have gotten this thing together without breaking it. Now I am stuck with a $50 part that I cannot use and I do not know where to get replacement screws. I don't know where to find maintenance part #87175 and it seems silly to buy a whole bag of parts just for the 2 screws. I am afraid that new screws will just strip again. Has anyone else experienced this?

KLANDERMAN

Hey bro the same thing happened to me, what i did was I used my dremmel to make a grove on the screws to use a normal screw driver, but just in case check out this site rcmart, here is the link for what you are looking for.

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/defaul...ort=1a&&page=2

It always good to have a couple, also check out the other LW partd for the R'40... good luck tha part is only
$5.40 USD

KLANDERMAN

If you want the best, go with the r40 is belt driven, centax clutch, and its a pro level car. There is no comparison with the hpi evo or the nitro 18SS. trust me on that one, besides the belts are duraqble and the car is way more consistant than the other two. From one to ten, ten being the r40 the other 2 are like a 4 or a 5... The R'40 is amazing and when set right it kick ass!!!!!

rossb

Did you tighten those screws until the head hit the brass collar, and then back off 3 turns?

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

gentlemen......the whole trick to the 2 sp is to thread the screws into the shoes first,then take them out....then go ahead and assemble the speed...this way there is no pressure on the screws,shoes,threads,heads,etc...trying to cut threads into the shoes while tightening up against the 2 speed springs.....

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Interesting enough. I think I accidently did that and it did indeed seem to help. Just be careful at the very end of the assembly when you guys goto touch the brass tube.

Also screw the whole 3 screws back thing. Take the screws back to where they almost would get touched. Like the stock r40 wants you to. This seemed to make my engagement just right.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

I bought them off ebay. It seems there are no others on there at the moment.

But it seems you can buy them direct now. 12.99 a pair. Thats not too bad.

http://twistertires.com/products.htm

I suggest the 37 shore or 40 shore all around. The 40 shore is what I used and I thought it was pretty sticky for 40. But thats compared to my probably really old jaco nitro shoes. Either way if your racing in a hot area then 40 should be good...but it is already starting to cool off. So 37 should be good for once it cools a little too.

I also picked up those speedmind tires which im going to test and picked up what seems to be a similiar tire. The black star racing tire. Im figuring im going to start testing out all these tires and will do a review comparison of them all once I get through a few. Its good though each month I race the same race only, same surface so I can get a good idea of whats good for traction and what isnt. At least for my p-lot track.

R40LV

rossb,


here is nice kit of screws and you can probably find the screws you need in this kit to fit in the 2-speed.......


http://www.rcscrewz.com/bulk_screws_kits.htm


I have bought it and it comes in very handy...... plus all the screws in the kit are hex head and stainless steel.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Forgot to mention you want to get yourself probably a nice hex tool set. I got the integy one , its cheap and the tips are suprisingly durable. They will stop you from stripping hex screws as much. I kinda used to like philips screws before as I would always strip hex screws. Now that I have a nice tool set I see why people go for these. They are much easier to work with always give a nice tight grip.

thisisagame24

im sure this question has been asked several times but i finally got my motor tuned so it doesnt shut off when i hit half throttle but it takes a good amount of rpms to get it moving from a stand still, and once its moving it responds to light throttle responces. can anyone help me so i can get the car to take off at a lower rpm?

Rapid Roy

Here ya go. From one page back

Make sure that the pins that locate the clutch shoes are not hitting the inside of the clutch bell. Your clutch bell will have a nice line in it if they are. Next, you want to run as little end play as possible.

You might be setting up the clutch bell to far away from the clutch shoes. If you shim the wrong places you will have too much gap between the clutch bell and clutch shoes. If this happens, you will never be able to get the clutch to engage early enough. What I did was to assemble the clutch weights, shoes and clutch nut on the flywheel. Then I test fit the clutchbell without any bearings or spacers. When I did this, I discovered the pins were keeping the clutch bell from comming into contact with the clutch shoes and I had to do my mod. Once you get good contact between the shoes and bell, you can now see the correct position of the clutch bell to the clutch shoes. You want a very small gap between the shoes and bell. Now take off the clutchbell, install the bearings, and adjust the spacers so you get the gap you want. Now add spacers at the end, just under the screw that holds the whole mess together so the is almost no wiggle (end play).

Once I figured this out, I built both clutches (I have 2 R40's) in 20 minutes and was able to adjust them both easily. The manual tries to give you a cookie cutter or simplified method of setting up the clutch, but I have found too many variables between engine shafts, flywheels, and the various clutch parts to get things to work the way the instructions show. This was not my first experiance with a centax clutch, but I was forced to throughly understand how to properly setup and adjust one to get mine to work. I use completly stock clutch components and haven't had any problems yet. I have bought the grey mugen shoes to try but havent' intsalled it yet.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Got my speedmind rx pack. It weighs 66grams. From the size of the things you would figrure they would be much lighter.

Hesky

yeah that makes sense, nimh aaa's are between 13-14gs each. I found some hi capacity nicd aaa (still only 600mah) that are only 9 grams each so im gonna make a 6v pack up from then.
I remember about 6 years back when I was racing with those crappy old nicd rc1700 cells, well I picked up a set yesterday and compared them to a pack of new gp3700s nimh and they feel half as light.
nimh=heavy