Hesky

sorry Rapid Roy you were right to assume I was using the 87092, I got the codes mixed up. My motor has the sg style crank thus the 87092 shaft bolt was used.
I was actually using the collet and washer that came with the kit, I've just tried a thinner washer between the motor and crank collet (half thickness) as you said and tried it out, made no noticeable difference then I thought about it a little more and I'm not sure it would have made a difference anyway as all I would do is compensate for the difference made and try and get the gap between 0.2mm and point 0.5mm again. As the main clutch assemble (stage 49) is on its own shaft unaffected by that washer adjustment. I'm just really unsure why I have to undo the 87095 bolt so much to get the clutch to bite at all.
I mean when the clutch engages it engages! no slip when the motor accelerating, it just engages far far to late IMO.

Thanks a lot for you help guys

Hesky

Ok from what I understand if I get the distance between A and B (the clutchbell and flywheel) between 0.2mm and 0.5mm I've pretty much created the correct distance the clutch pad has to move to make contact with the clutch bell and also compensate for the possible difference in crank shaft length between engines. and b4 that I made sure that the end of the 87092 bolt sticks out between 0.5mm and 0.8mm from the 87095 bolt so the spring is roughly applyin the right pressure on the clutch pad holding it back from engaging to early.
If my understandings right I should be able to get the clutch working and not need to loosen bolts excessively and add loads of spacers b4 the thrust bearing unless I have defective parts or theres summit the manual didnt tell me about.

onnetz

the clutch bolt is easy to adjust.. whats so bad about having to do it?
thats how the clutch was meant to be adjusted..

Hesky

ontheroad

HEY GUYS THANK YOU FOR YOUR DEAL WITH MY QUESTION. SOMEBODY ASKS ABOUT A CLUTCH AND LOTS OF REPLIES. THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH. YOU HELPFUL GUYS.

AMGRacer

Try reading the thread first then ask again. If you have some specific questions ask them, if you want to know about the HPI R40 versions read their website.

ontheroad

Ok. I will read 267-7= 260 pages called "novel of r 40" besides, the hpi web site gives no feedback Think smart please. You are really very helpfull guys and unselfish guys, thanks again for your dealing.
İ back out getting answer.

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

the std r40 (the US and European version) weighs about 1850 grams...and could weigh more depending on servos.battery etc....you can see this car on HPI's us and european website...

the 2004 special edition,which you can see on the HPi Japan website,was the same car with a lot of high performance parts thrown in....metal shocks,lite weight shafts,.08 2 sp, grahite towers.titanium screws,etc..this car would weigh in the 1700 gram area....

the new 2005 car has different steering servo location,new tank,chassis and top tray....it will have some hop ups also included....

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Yeah after handling the titanium screw kit and superchassis alone. I can see how it gets a good drop.

Seriously though those titanium screw feel like some super cheapo screws they are so light in your hand. But they are ultra strong.

One question for you guys though on assembly of the CG Arms. The rear arms on the graphite say to thread in parrallel. Well I tried it and both arms ended up pretty sticky. After trying to give more room they still are pretty sticky. Even when pretty much going all the way out. Still the same.

Will this just loosen up overtime or did I mess up or something. Ive gotten them to loosen up a little but I wasnt sure if this is kinda normal. At least with the CG cause thats the only place it warns. Otherwise the manual doesnt warn about stickiness.

ontheroad

Thank you very very much fastharry, I can not examine the japan web site because i do not know japaneese, i always visit hpi usa and europe but. I think the special edition is the best way.

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

if you go to google.com.....and download the google toolbar,when you come to the web page,right click on the page,and at the bottom it will have an option to translate the page...

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

try this also...remember,you also get the titanium screw set in the 2004 car,...which is not in the conversion package....

http://www.hpiracing.co.jp/contents_...up_e/0403.html

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

let me make it easy for you..the rear grahite arms suck......I tried 3 sets,and could never get it not to bind...just use arms,no hubs....

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Yeah I think the only possibly way to do this would be to have two people screwing it at once.

Or maybe wasnt patient enough. Im getting the hubs to loosen up some but when you give them a break and come back they have gotten kinda sticky at first again.

I wish there was a machine that could work them for a good couple of hours. That would probably work out. Im going to just keep working them, but this is cutting into my build time. If it wasnt for this I would have gotten like half the kit finished in a couple of hours.

Hesky

Soz, think that was probably my fault for butting in, its not the guys fault theres to many questions to answer sometimes
it is a massive thread, but try out the "search this thread" tool at the top corner, it is pretty effective I've found