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HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum

Old 06-27-2005, 12:28 PM
  #7591  
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yes, I had my cvd axle cleanly snap off too. Couldnt believe it.
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Old 06-27-2005, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisR40
thank you for helping me with my clutch setup and this past weekend during the 3rd heat I hit the wall (board) and cleanly broke my right front drive axle. No twist marks just a clean break. Has anybody had that happen to them before??
Sure have - Run a wider bumper to protect your front-end or stop hitting walls! I prefer the wider bumper.
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Old 06-27-2005, 02:32 PM
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good to know I am not the only person to ever snap one and were do you find the wider bumper??
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Old 06-27-2005, 02:54 PM
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Hey,
I was taking the head off my engine to see how much it was shimmed and it seems the button is stuck to the sleeve.. I've done this with other engines before and never had this problem. I ended up pulling the sleeve out of the case and the button is still attached.. got any tips to seperate them?

thanks.
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Old 06-27-2005, 03:33 PM
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Heat it up a bit.
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Old 06-27-2005, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Heat it up a bit.
I finally got it, just took a little more effort than I thought it should..

turns out the .12r xs has .4 mm of shims already..
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Old 06-27-2005, 04:02 PM
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That reminds me, I just put my D3R in my r40 and im noticing the exhaust port is lower than regular motors. Ive pretty much now have my side brace tensioner set as tight as it can go.

It still looks pretty close. I guess this is a warning as there really is nothing else to do. If you get a d3r youll need to get the cf brace or modify your stock one to pull the belt away more from the exhaust.

Im just having a heck of a time finding a motor that fits good.

Another thing with this motor is also the carb runs very close to the brake disc. But the good thing the carb can pretty much fully rotate without hitting the idle screw.
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Old 06-27-2005, 04:29 PM
  #7598  
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My belt actually runs against the bottom of my exhaust header. I haven't had any problems running it this way. I was pretty nervous at first though. I kept playing with the tensioner trying to keep the belt from rubbing, but ended up running it looser. Tightening up the belt too much will cause premature wear to the belt, gears, and bearings. It will also tighten up the drivetrain too. I keep thinking that I could take my dremel and remove a bit of the flange so the belt won't rub, but keep forgetting since there havent' been any problems.
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Old 06-27-2005, 06:20 PM
  #7599  
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Default port polishing

anyone else try their hand at modding the ports?
while I had the sleeve out I decided to give it a try. I didnt go very agressive with it and might go a little further.. performance wise the first thing I noticed was that idle sounded slightly different and running it seemed to hit top end a little sooner.. nothing very significant but I was just happy it ran at least as well as it did before I modded it....
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Old 06-27-2005, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by onnetz
anyone else try their hand at modding the ports?
while I had the sleeve out I decided to give it a try. I didnt go very agressive with it and might go a little further.. performance wise the first thing I noticed was that idle sounded slightly different and running it seemed to hit top end a little sooner.. nothing very significant but I was just happy it ran at least as well as it did before I modded it....
also I switched to the rear black and gold front springs.. much better..
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Old 06-27-2005, 07:23 PM
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Hi, what do people use for lightweight receiver cells? I've been looking in to Lithium-ion prismatic rechargeable cells and these new polymer rechargeable cells, my digicam uses Lithium-ion rechargeables and there pretty damn light compared to the old ni-mh cells. I bet these new plastic based cells are even lighter!

Cheers
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Old 06-28-2005, 12:34 AM
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The most common are the Nimh AAA batteries. They are easy to get and charge. Much lighter then the 2/3 AA packs.
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Old 06-28-2005, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Hesky
Hi, what do people use for lightweight receiver cells? I've been looking in to Lithium-ion prismatic rechargeable cells and these new polymer rechargeable cells, my digicam uses Lithium-ion rechargeables and there pretty damn light compared to the old ni-mh cells. I bet these new plastic based cells are even lighter!

Cheers
Hesky
here is the one to get.....
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCKM2&P=7
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Old 06-28-2005, 12:56 AM
  #7604  
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
You know thats odd cause I kinda feel like some situations it might be different as well. Maybe in some rare instances it could be the opposite.

Thats why when I tune sometimes I try the richer and leaner from the base point...unless im up in temp.
There will never be a situation where leaning the bottom end will prevent a motor from running on after a burst of WOT. The run on is caused by the motor being somewhat lean already after the WOT run, or it sometimes is caused by the motor pre-detonating due to hotspots on the combustion chamber or plug, or very rarely can be caused by a wierd gas flow situation due to the pipe. It is never caused by a rich bottom end.
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Old 06-28-2005, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Hesky
Hi, what do people use for lightweight receiver cells? I've been looking in to Lithium-ion prismatic rechargeable cells and these new polymer rechargeable cells, my digicam uses Lithium-ion rechargeables and there pretty damn light compared to the old ni-mh cells. I bet these new plastic based cells are even lighter!

Cheers
Hesky
Lithium Ions are fantastic as reciever cells. The biggest problem is that they are 3.6 volts per cell making them 7.2 volts total as the packs are 2 cell packs. Most receivers and many servos dont like voltage this high so you need to add a voltage regulator which will add a little more weight. Also you supposedly require a special charger for them, I am not a believer in this myself. You cannot peak charge them as usual. Also you cannot fully discharge them without running a serious risk of permanent cell reversal.
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