HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
#7591
yes, I had my cvd axle cleanly snap off too. Couldnt believe it.
#7592
Originally Posted by ChrisR40
thank you for helping me with my clutch setup and this past weekend during the 3rd heat I hit the wall (board) and cleanly broke my right front drive axle. No twist marks just a clean break. Has anybody had that happen to them before??
#7594
Hey,
I was taking the head off my engine to see how much it was shimmed and it seems the button is stuck to the sleeve.. I've done this with other engines before and never had this problem. I ended up pulling the sleeve out of the case and the button is still attached.. got any tips to seperate them?
thanks.
I was taking the head off my engine to see how much it was shimmed and it seems the button is stuck to the sleeve.. I've done this with other engines before and never had this problem. I ended up pulling the sleeve out of the case and the button is still attached.. got any tips to seperate them?
thanks.
#7596
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Heat it up a bit.
turns out the .12r xs has .4 mm of shims already..
#7597
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
That reminds me, I just put my D3R in my r40 and im noticing the exhaust port is lower than regular motors. Ive pretty much now have my side brace tensioner set as tight as it can go.
It still looks pretty close. I guess this is a warning as there really is nothing else to do. If you get a d3r youll need to get the cf brace or modify your stock one to pull the belt away more from the exhaust.
Im just having a heck of a time finding a motor that fits good.
Another thing with this motor is also the carb runs very close to the brake disc. But the good thing the carb can pretty much fully rotate without hitting the idle screw.
It still looks pretty close. I guess this is a warning as there really is nothing else to do. If you get a d3r youll need to get the cf brace or modify your stock one to pull the belt away more from the exhaust.
Im just having a heck of a time finding a motor that fits good.
Another thing with this motor is also the carb runs very close to the brake disc. But the good thing the carb can pretty much fully rotate without hitting the idle screw.
#7598
My belt actually runs against the bottom of my exhaust header. I haven't had any problems running it this way. I was pretty nervous at first though. I kept playing with the tensioner trying to keep the belt from rubbing, but ended up running it looser. Tightening up the belt too much will cause premature wear to the belt, gears, and bearings. It will also tighten up the drivetrain too. I keep thinking that I could take my dremel and remove a bit of the flange so the belt won't rub, but keep forgetting since there havent' been any problems.
#7599
port polishing
anyone else try their hand at modding the ports?
while I had the sleeve out I decided to give it a try. I didnt go very agressive with it and might go a little further.. performance wise the first thing I noticed was that idle sounded slightly different and running it seemed to hit top end a little sooner.. nothing very significant but I was just happy it ran at least as well as it did before I modded it....
while I had the sleeve out I decided to give it a try. I didnt go very agressive with it and might go a little further.. performance wise the first thing I noticed was that idle sounded slightly different and running it seemed to hit top end a little sooner.. nothing very significant but I was just happy it ran at least as well as it did before I modded it....
#7600
Originally Posted by onnetz
anyone else try their hand at modding the ports?
while I had the sleeve out I decided to give it a try. I didnt go very agressive with it and might go a little further.. performance wise the first thing I noticed was that idle sounded slightly different and running it seemed to hit top end a little sooner.. nothing very significant but I was just happy it ran at least as well as it did before I modded it....
while I had the sleeve out I decided to give it a try. I didnt go very agressive with it and might go a little further.. performance wise the first thing I noticed was that idle sounded slightly different and running it seemed to hit top end a little sooner.. nothing very significant but I was just happy it ran at least as well as it did before I modded it....
#7601
Hi, what do people use for lightweight receiver cells? I've been looking in to Lithium-ion prismatic rechargeable cells and these new polymer rechargeable cells, my digicam uses Lithium-ion rechargeables and there pretty damn light compared to the old ni-mh cells. I bet these new plastic based cells are even lighter!
Cheers
Hesky
Cheers
Hesky
#7602
The most common are the Nimh AAA batteries. They are easy to get and charge. Much lighter then the 2/3 AA packs.
#7603
Originally Posted by Hesky
Hi, what do people use for lightweight receiver cells? I've been looking in to Lithium-ion prismatic rechargeable cells and these new polymer rechargeable cells, my digicam uses Lithium-ion rechargeables and there pretty damn light compared to the old ni-mh cells. I bet these new plastic based cells are even lighter!
Cheers
Hesky
Cheers
Hesky
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCKM2&P=7
#7604
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
You know thats odd cause I kinda feel like some situations it might be different as well. Maybe in some rare instances it could be the opposite.
Thats why when I tune sometimes I try the richer and leaner from the base point...unless im up in temp.
Thats why when I tune sometimes I try the richer and leaner from the base point...unless im up in temp.
#7605
Originally Posted by Hesky
Hi, what do people use for lightweight receiver cells? I've been looking in to Lithium-ion prismatic rechargeable cells and these new polymer rechargeable cells, my digicam uses Lithium-ion rechargeables and there pretty damn light compared to the old ni-mh cells. I bet these new plastic based cells are even lighter!
Cheers
Hesky
Cheers
Hesky