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Old 04-20-2005, 09:59 AM
  #6016  
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Klander-Here it is man.
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Old 04-20-2005, 10:00 AM
  #6017  
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Another look.
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Old 04-20-2005, 10:07 AM
  #6018  
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HarKonnenD, see if your camera has a "Macro" function. It'll make those close-ups much better, if your camera has that function.
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Old 04-20-2005, 10:08 AM
  #6019  
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more.
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Old 04-20-2005, 10:09 AM
  #6020  
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Not sure bout that. I was just snappin quick shots because im gonna do some small laundry then run outside to enjoy the day. Got the Rody to break in and then the Picco .26 to test out.
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Old 04-20-2005, 11:08 AM
  #6021  
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Originally posted by athrun
Anyone have the part numbers for the stronger camber link
ends.I think they were for a savage.Thanks in advance.
Fastharry posted part numbers many pages back. I don't have them, but I remember them being for the T-Max.

HarKonnenD,

If you are still trying to loose weight on you car, remove the handle. Hara lost the receiver box too. He mounted the receiver directly onto the top deck, old school style. I also know that people are discarding the battery enclosure too. They shoe goo the batteries to the bottom and use nuts to secure the screws from underneath. There are some pretty cool grahpite battery plates you can get too. Much stiffer then the stock plastic. I have noticed that mine sags a bit and I can see it getting scratched up from rubbing the ashpalt.
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Old 04-20-2005, 12:15 PM
  #6022  
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My next motor is definatly gonna be the Rb.
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Old 04-20-2005, 01:39 PM
  #6023  
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Originally posted by nsxshogun
My next motor is definatly gonna be the Rb.
I'm waiting on HARK to let me know if it is worth it....
I guess for legal racing it should be the best, but here I'm not having a hard time being in the top 3, so I'll probably get the OS 18 just to be one of the fastest one in the modified category in which you can go in with a .21 if you want lol... It's kinda like a special category, but it's not alway offered like 1/10 sedan
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Old 04-20-2005, 01:40 PM
  #6024  
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I know you can't fit a .21 into the R-40, but there are super nitro's converted to use .21, and they race in that category also....
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Old 04-20-2005, 02:17 PM
  #6025  
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Hey guys,

I have finished breaking in the engine on my R40. I would appreciate some help with some newbie questions.

During break-in (5-6 tanks), the pipe spat out an inordinate amount of oil. I'm guessing this is good since it's running really, really rich if it's spitting out that much oil. Am I right? I would guess I got at least a pipe full of oil.

I also got a lot of oil leaking out of the coupler between the header and the pipe. I'm guessing this will be partly aleivated by leaning out the main valve and by making sure the coupling is on there good and tight. Yes? Are there sealants that I could use as well?

After break-in, I put in a few drops of after-run oil, and spun the flywheel to get the oil circulating. I noticed that it was much easier to turn than before the break-in. I can now do it with my finger. It's still almost too hard to do, but I think before break-in, I couldn't even do it without help from the starter box. Is this okay?

Man, I can't wait to get this thing on the track!
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Old 04-20-2005, 02:23 PM
  #6026  
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hey man look's like you are doing ok, after leaning out the high needle you won't have anymore problems with oil leak. Post a picture of your car, so we can see the engine bay...
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Old 04-20-2005, 03:33 PM
  #6027  
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it looks like tower has discontinued these...so ckeck your local hobbie shops...


Originally posted by fastharry
use PRO LINE tmaxx ends and balls.....use the varying washers from the pro 4 to change roll underneath the rod balls...I used the 23mm lunsford buckles....the stock HPI 20 mm were fine...


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Old 04-20-2005, 04:04 PM
  #6028  
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Talking My R40

KInda dirty, but here are some pics of my R40.
Dan
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Old 04-20-2005, 04:06 PM
  #6029  
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Default my R40

And another
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Old 04-20-2005, 04:07 PM
  #6030  
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Default R40

Sorry guys, the last one
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