Rapid Roy

The front one way and solid rear will only make the rear end more loose. It will only work well on high bite surfaces. Your ride height should be closer to 4mm to 5mm. Set the front slightly lower then the rear. You should be scraping your chassis. Also increase the rear toe in to 3 degrees. Maybe go to 2.5 degrees rear camber too. If its still loose, softer tires or springs in the rear or harder tires or springs in the front. You can also try disconecting the rear sway bar.

BTW, what tire/spring combos are you running now?

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

So far I'll be only getting the 4 bevel upgrade for the rear, ligh wt 2speed shafts and the .08 module gears. I'll have to place the order for the other items I'll get in the future.

KLANDERMAN

Rapid roy: Im running the stock suspension and the tires are the stock ones taht como with the kit, I also tried the ellegi 35 rears and 35 front, but I feel that the stock ones work better... I still don't know what the stock one are, but they run better.

Rapid Roy

Stock tires are 40 shore. You can also use 0 degrees toe on the front or 1 degree toe in.

Oh, I forgot to ask, what diff oil are you using in your front/rear diffs? Do you have the 4 gear rear diff? You will have rear traction problems if your rear diff is too stiff.

nitroracer20

iTrader: (5)

just wanted to say that I am going to buy my r40 this weekend. I will soon be one of you guys. Be prepared for questions!!

KLANDERMAN

Everything is stock, tomorrow I will be instaling the front oneway, the front and rear graphite shock towers and the titanium shafts, but the rear is not to stiff, I used the original lube that comes with the kit.

bboytab

iTrader: (2)

R40 guys,

What servos are you using for steering and throttle? Just curious...

Any comments, ideas bout Hara's winning 2004 setup?(www.hpiracing.com)
His The rear droop setting...
His Ride height.....
etc....

KLANDERMAN

nitroracer20
what engine are you getting?
I run with the team orion wasp turbo engine, but there are a lot you can choose from.
If you can, get the graphite towers and the titanium shafts!!!
good luck!!!

KLANDERMAN

I was using the 625MG hitec, but when I was tightening it, the screw broke, so now im using a futaba standard. The only problem is that you have to let go the throttle to turn, does anyone have an idea on how to get the screw out?

nitroracer20

iTrader: (5)

Hey Klanderman,
Right now I have the wasp .12 se-ps on my rs4 3 and I cant complain. Im going to buy a wasp roar .12 or a sirio .12 3 port. Theres a guy at the hs who Im kind of in a deal with now to buy his r40 and I dont want to pull out of and tell him I am going to buy a new r40 instead of his. His has alot of hopups on it and will come with a sirio engine, exhaust and tons of hopups for only $350. On the other hand I want to get learning exerience putting it together and I really want to get it new also. I think I am going to see if his car is in good shape and if not I will buy a new one. What do you guys think.
Thanks

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

9550 futaba's................

Rapid Roy

With the diffs, just make sure that the rear turns much easier then the front. If you are running on a low traction surface, you might even just run grease on the rear gears.

Rapid Roy

If the car is really in good shape and has the right hop ups on it, it could be worth it. The hop ups you want are, lightweight chassis, AAA battery pack, hollow shafts, graphite shock towers, 0.8 pitch 2 speed, titanium screw set, titanium pivot balls. The most importaint ones I listed first.

As for the price, you could do better. I got this deal about 6 months ago on the for sale forum. I don't think these type of bargans come along too often though. You might want to negotiate the price a little. A used engine is always suspect. One of the engines on the r40's I bought looked brand new, but had to be junked because of a cracked piston. I still got a great deal though.

Here's what I got

"i have two hpi r40's for sale. the first one has a ltwt upper deck a ltwt 2-speed graphite f/r shock towers and the hpi lightened chassis and a hpi .12xrs motor that has never been used just installed. also the car has all allen head titanium screws. car number two is a box stock r40 with a hpi xrs .12 motor that has had two tanks run thru it. neither car will have servos with them but will have a receiver pack and a switch with it. the price for the first one is $250.00 and the second one is $150.00. if you purchase both cars i will throw in a TON of extra parts for NO CHARGE!! enough of parts to build at least two more cars including two extra stock chassis' i will take pay pal. please only email me if you are interested."

I would also recomend stripping the car all the way down and rebuilding it, replacing any worn or bent peices. That way you know the car and that it's assembled the way you like it.

Minus

Steering: Futaba 9402
Throttle: Futaba 3010

KLANDERMAN

My friend Gustavo wants to buy an r-40, does anyone know of a used r-40 or any advise to buy used or new?

He has seen how expensive a new car can be, and all the experiments I've been doing with mine, but just in case anyone is selling one... let me know