HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
06-20-2004, 11:17 PM
#3241
Originally posted by tranced
btw: if anyone cares, i will be at floyd bennet field today, orange/black/silver hpi 350z, riding in a white previa. see you there!!!!!!!!!!
btw: if anyone cares, i will be at floyd bennet field today, orange/black/silver hpi 350z, riding in a white previa. see you there!!!!!!!!!!
06-20-2004, 11:49 PM
#3242
I got a few more hopups for the car to test them out.
I put the hotbodies alloy front body posts on, they fit nicely except you have to put around a 2-3mm spacer underneath them to space them to the right height. A nut worked fine. Definately keeps the front of the car more rigid, dunno if it does much more
I also got the HPI rear lower mounts in alloy. Man these things sure are pricey, but they allow a new rear pin location (+1) as well as 0 and +2. The best thing I liked about them was that the rear hingepins are also now mounted in a rubber grommet like the front hingepins. I think this should increase durability significantly as I have bent 3 rear pins already.
I put the hotbodies alloy front body posts on, they fit nicely except you have to put around a 2-3mm spacer underneath them to space them to the right height. A nut worked fine. Definately keeps the front of the car more rigid, dunno if it does much more
I also got the HPI rear lower mounts in alloy. Man these things sure are pricey, but they allow a new rear pin location (+1) as well as 0 and +2. The best thing I liked about them was that the rear hingepins are also now mounted in a rubber grommet like the front hingepins. I think this should increase durability significantly as I have bent 3 rear pins already.
06-21-2004, 12:49 AM
#3243
I also got the HPI rear lower mounts in alloy. Man these things sure are pricey, but they allow a new rear pin location (+1) as well as 0 and +2. The best thing I liked about them was that the rear hingepins are also now mounted in a rubber grommet like the front hingepins. I think this should increase durability significantly as I have bent 3 rear pins already.
where did u get it? Can u give me the link. I went thru 2 pins already he he . thx
06-21-2004, 07:44 AM
#3244
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
I've been trying to get a low powered side exhaust engine into my R40 so I have the option of racing it in a different class here in Oz.
I found this manifold off the yokomo GT4 makes it happen after a couple of minor bends to the pipe.
I found this manifold off the yokomo GT4 makes it happen after a couple of minor bends to the pipe.
Last edited by BF; 06-21-2004 at 08:12 AM.
06-21-2004, 08:19 AM
#3246
Originally posted by tranced
1. you must have gotten a bad batch for the pivot balls. mine have been abused like you wouldnt believe, and they have held up excellent, no tweak, straight as an arrow.
2. it is not as hard as you may tell it. just detach the front shocks from the bottom captured ball end (with some gentle plier prying), remove the 2 long machine screws which are embedded in the frontal rear upper hingepin brace, then remove the 4 frontal upper bulkhead self-tapping screws, and the shock tower from the bulkhead.
the whole front arm assembly should rise up, you can lift the tower up, remove the upper bulkhead, and vuola...
steering assembly, front diff, belts, pulleys, everything, yours for the fixing.
3. the only problem with the stock knuckles is that they tend to flex at the point where the pivot balls exit. CA that area LIGHTLY before installation, and you're done. and even before the CA, it takes a big whack to have the knuckle pop out.
think of it this way, during an intense main, would you rather have your pit guy quickly pop the knuckle back in after a little run around the track? or would u rather have to replace the part in a frenzy and get a DNF?
btw: again, you must have just gotten a bad batch of pivot balls.
4. the snake has bitten you! the r40 is your antidote! (i hope!
)
5. you're right about that. but I have come up with an ordered process to remove it. first, remove the plastic side brace. second, remove the screw holding the roll-bar/handle to the left (car facing front in your view) upperdeck support. that should get the radio tray free, you can pull up on it with the handle. the engine should come out with a bit of wiggling.
6. ok, you don't have a 6, so this will be my little room for comments
all the modifications you plan are unnecessary. just drive the car. i'm sure you're a competent driver, a skilled driver, a confident driver. so you won't need all that to drive like you want.
i have found that you control the r40, the r40 doesnt control you. you tell it what to do, it does it. and if it gets a little out of hand, bitch-slap it with the hudy. of course, a bit of lightening couldn't hurt, infact it would help, but doing all these initial modifications before really racing the car for an extended period won't allow you to realise the finer points of the car. it handles
that is all.
btw: if anyone cares, i will be at floyd bennet field today, orange/black/silver hpi 350z, riding in a white previa. see you there!!!!!!!!!!
1. you must have gotten a bad batch for the pivot balls. mine have been abused like you wouldnt believe, and they have held up excellent, no tweak, straight as an arrow.
2. it is not as hard as you may tell it. just detach the front shocks from the bottom captured ball end (with some gentle plier prying), remove the 2 long machine screws which are embedded in the frontal rear upper hingepin brace, then remove the 4 frontal upper bulkhead self-tapping screws, and the shock tower from the bulkhead.
the whole front arm assembly should rise up, you can lift the tower up, remove the upper bulkhead, and vuola...
steering assembly, front diff, belts, pulleys, everything, yours for the fixing.
3. the only problem with the stock knuckles is that they tend to flex at the point where the pivot balls exit. CA that area LIGHTLY before installation, and you're done. and even before the CA, it takes a big whack to have the knuckle pop out.
think of it this way, during an intense main, would you rather have your pit guy quickly pop the knuckle back in after a little run around the track? or would u rather have to replace the part in a frenzy and get a DNF?
btw: again, you must have just gotten a bad batch of pivot balls.
4. the snake has bitten you! the r40 is your antidote! (i hope!
)5. you're right about that. but I have come up with an ordered process to remove it. first, remove the plastic side brace. second, remove the screw holding the roll-bar/handle to the left (car facing front in your view) upperdeck support. that should get the radio tray free, you can pull up on it with the handle. the engine should come out with a bit of wiggling.
6. ok, you don't have a 6, so this will be my little room for comments
all the modifications you plan are unnecessary. just drive the car. i'm sure you're a competent driver, a skilled driver, a confident driver. so you won't need all that to drive like you want.
i have found that you control the r40, the r40 doesnt control you. you tell it what to do, it does it. and if it gets a little out of hand, bitch-slap it with the hudy. of course, a bit of lightening couldn't hurt, infact it would help, but doing all these initial modifications before really racing the car for an extended period won't allow you to realise the finer points of the car. it handles
that is all.
btw: if anyone cares, i will be at floyd bennet field today, orange/black/silver hpi 350z, riding in a white previa. see you there!!!!!!!!!!
Yes, I have to agree those silver hub nuts are very LOOSE onto the hub after a while, I have to replace the knuckle and use teplon tap to wrap around them a little.......hope that will work, or I will try the CA methrod...(I hate that methrod cause even I waited 2 days, after I screw in the nut, it glued the nut permenently...)
".......think of it this way, during an intense main, would you rather have your pit guy quickly pop the knuckle back in after a little run around the track? or would u rather have to replace the part in a frenzy and get a DNF?......" That is SO TRUE.
4. the snake has bitten you! the r40 is your antidote! (i hope!
)..........YES, but I know I want to upgrade the shocks and springs, I know nothing beside the SERPENT one, and full set of Serpent shocks (4 steps adjustable) are $30 with springs....I can't even buy 1/2 of the HPI super shocks for $30...
06-21-2004, 08:23 AM
#3247
Originally posted by 20 SMOKE
are the serpent shocks all metal, the side brace i have is the one that looks like it will break easy but it has a beter adjustment for the belt if you run over drive
are the serpent shocks all metal, the side brace i have is the one that looks like it will break easy but it has a beter adjustment for the belt if you run over drive
I know those shocks pretty well, and I have all the serpent springs and know what to use and oil them....the best part is, they are 4 level adjsutable dampering, that means, you don't need to replace the dampering inside (from 2 holes to 5 holes)...all you need to do is twist it to change from 2 holes to 5 holes externally...........that is some design....
But the true reason I change it.....$30 for all 4 corners with springs....not even the stock HPI shocks can go lower then that.
06-21-2004, 08:30 AM
#3249
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Some answers. The serpent steering assembly will change the ackerman which I think will be a bad thing. Stick with the HPI ones. I have not popped one yet, or bend a pivotball for that matter. I dont run at a hard border track very often however.
Some answers. The serpent steering assembly will change the ackerman which I think will be a bad thing. Stick with the HPI ones. I have not popped one yet, or bend a pivotball for that matter. I dont run at a hard border track very often however.
I got the car used, so I really don't know how the previous owner can bent 3 out of 4 steering pivot balls and manage to still race.
Originally posted by AMGRacer
When I put in the HPI lightened top deck I found I can get the engine out easily by just removing the side brace. They clearanced the top deck just enough that you can lift and twist. Copy the cut from the rear back of the lightened deck and you will be sweet.
When I put in the HPI lightened top deck I found I can get the engine out easily by just removing the side brace. They clearanced the top deck just enough that you can lift and twist. Copy the cut from the rear back of the lightened deck and you will be sweet.
06-21-2004, 10:51 AM
#3250
Darn Sirio Evo2 took me 2 hours to fit it on R40! End up shims engine mounts 3mm.
06-21-2004, 01:51 PM
#3251
Originally posted by X-Garage
Darn Sirio Evo2 took me 2 hours to fit it on R40! End up shims engine mounts 3mm.
Darn Sirio Evo2 took me 2 hours to fit it on R40! End up shims engine mounts 3mm.
Unless you use different flywheel that is a little bigger then stock one...
06-21-2004, 08:04 PM
#3252
Tech Rookie
Purchased a new R40
Hey guys,
I am a newbie to the R/C life and recently purchased an HPI R40. Tried to get help from the people who works at the place but, they sounded like they were not interested in my novice questions.
I was wondering if anyone would have the time to suggest what engine, transmitter, reciever, exhaust pipe/header, glow plug igniter, etc....(basically everything that did not came with the kit) I should get. Any recommendations on brands, size, etc...?
Also, how well will an R40 compete with a Associated TC3?
Thanks!
I am a newbie to the R/C life and recently purchased an HPI R40. Tried to get help from the people who works at the place but, they sounded like they were not interested in my novice questions.
I was wondering if anyone would have the time to suggest what engine, transmitter, reciever, exhaust pipe/header, glow plug igniter, etc....(basically everything that did not came with the kit) I should get. Any recommendations on brands, size, etc...?
Also, how well will an R40 compete with a Associated TC3?
Thanks!
06-21-2004, 08:12 PM
#3253
Tech Master
Re: Purchased a new R40
Originally posted by LAyGOmyDAyGO
Hey guys,
I am a newbie to the R/C life and recently purchased an HPI R40. Tried to get help from the people who works at the place but, they sounded like they were not interested in my novice questions.
I was wondering if anyone would have the time to suggest what engine, transmitter, reciever, exhaust pipe/header, glow plug igniter, etc....(basically everything that did not came with the kit) I should get. Any recommendations on brands, size, etc...?
Also, how well will an R40 compete with a Associated TC3?
Thanks!
Hey guys,
I am a newbie to the R/C life and recently purchased an HPI R40. Tried to get help from the people who works at the place but, they sounded like they were not interested in my novice questions.
I was wondering if anyone would have the time to suggest what engine, transmitter, reciever, exhaust pipe/header, glow plug igniter, etc....(basically everything that did not came with the kit) I should get. Any recommendations on brands, size, etc...?
Also, how well will an R40 compete with a Associated TC3?
Thanks!
We need to know your price range for these items. (ex. Engine=200, etc)
06-21-2004, 08:19 PM
#3254
Tech Rookie
Thanks DOMOisCOOL for replying.
Price Range:
Engine: $250
Transmitter: $200
Receiver: Any
Servo: Any
Exhaust Pipe: Any
Exhaust Header: Any
Glow Plug Igniter: Any
Thanks.
Price Range:
Engine: $250
Transmitter: $200
Receiver: Any
Servo: Any
Exhaust Pipe: Any
Exhaust Header: Any
Glow Plug Igniter: Any
Thanks.
Last edited by LAyGOmyDAyGO; 06-21-2004 at 08:31 PM.
06-21-2004, 08:28 PM
#3255
Tech Adept
i would probably get the novarossi NS12S3, you can proably find one for around 250, and for a radio under 200, get the JR xr3i, that is a very good radio for its price, it around 170, and that comes with two servos.