CraigH

That would be a stupid move by HPI.

nero1943

Will 30k rear and 50k front be okay???? I really don't want to take everything apart. Also my front is leaking from the screwhole. I didn't even overtighten it. WERID

nero1943

forgot the mention, I will be breaking in my engine and pratice. So no serious racing for now.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Oh NO....NO NO NO NO NO...............you know what, that is possible, cause my Greatplant account usually will update their Japan shipment of stuff that are coming...........2004 spec is NOT on the list and the UPGRADE kit is NOT in the list as well.

Again, good stuff from Japan come to America? Who am I kidding...

Solara

iTrader: (17)

First off.......the let Frank go to UK, then think Savage will have a bigger turn out then Touring (or R40)............now, think no one will care about the 2004 spec kit in USA............

HPI USA is just never ran out of surprises.....

CraigH

One way to solve that. Call HPI everyday and ask for the 2004spec edition R40. They will get the hint ,business is all about money.

JLock

iTrader: (4)

The sad part about what is going on now is that HPI is finally doing thing right as far as product but totally messing up as far as business sense/smarts. Planning only one Challenge event but at least two Savage Challenge events, please!!! They could start lossing their share of the market in the US with more moves like this.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

My next prediction of HPI USA....they will tell their head company to generate a ELECT SAVAGE and converted all the HPI Challenge to SAVAGE CHALLENGE only....

Then they will keep releasing those RTR RS4 EVO series....or STi version or RallyArts version of RS4 RTR with stick radio....

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Not everyone want money, apparently HPI USA does not....they will tell you to buy their SAVAGE and join the SAVAGE Challenge.

What else is better then get your $1000 RC truck dirty and race with Japanese racer oversea and you paid for everything.....

PTP Racing

iTrader: (2)

can you post a link to the hara set-up my car pushes real bad

im using

kit tires (going to try 37 front and rear)
front one-way
rear diff with 30k mugen oil
60wt oil
kit springs
shocks layed down
front swaybar flat (softest)
3 degrees rear toe in (going to try 2)
.5 degree front toe out
2 neg camber
all arms spaced acording to the manual

any suggestions?

treky11

Go to Hpi's site, go the the r40 kit page and the setup link is on the top. it will have hara's setup there.

rod_b

PTP - I run the kit setup with the exception of 50/40wt shock oil front/rear. My car pushed entering turns off power even with the one-way (car was great on-power everywhere else). I took out .5 degrees of rear toe and it cured the problem but made the car twitchy exiting turns on-power. I put the toe settings back and raised the ride height a bit in the rear and that fixed it. I think I could have accomplished the same thing by allowing more droop in the rear. That's probably another thing you can try.

AMGRacer

A bit of additional info required........

What tires normally work well at your track? Without that being right the car will always feel bad.

Also what droop settings are you running?

rc_king1

Hello fellow R40 owners

What is the reason for running a thick diff oil in the rear when running a front one-way? Can someone please elaborate for me please. Thank you.

AMGRacer

A quick physics lesson on the oneway.... A oneway makes the front wheels free when off power. This dramatically increases the steering response and corner speed of the car as a front diff makes a car push (The reason why 4wd Formula 1 cars were abandoned in the 60s and 70s). A 2wd rear driven car will always have the highest corner speed of any drive configuration (again see F1) which is basically what a oneway does to your car off power.

That being said if your car is coasting fast through a corner (remember we are talking off power here) then you need to consider the weight transfer. When you turn in off power your outside front wheel gets heavily loaded by weight transfer initially making the car change direction, then mid corner the weight starts to even out over the outside wheels moving from front to rear. There is only so much grip that you can generate when doing this and the higher the corner speed the more grip you need. Therefore if you turn in too hard you will spin out since your front will have too mcuh weight and the rear not enough.

So long story short is that a stiff rear diff reduces some turn in, making the car manageable if the grip is high enough. However the main benefit is that the drive from the oneway on power is complimented by the extra drive from the rear diff being so stiff.

Clear no?