AdrianOngs

Would Sanwa/Airtronics Servo Horn for Throttle work with KO servos?

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

Yes! they have the same amount of splines in the output gear.

AdrianOngs

Thanks lots!

speed6

Hi guys, some questions as i am desperatly in need of help

I am running in a low grip / bumby / very tight track, first run with stock setup sheet Data Ver1 had a feel of lots understeer. Than i was speakeing to people at the track and everyone runs the front with more grip than the rear.

Tried it and got very much better bit still way off.

Now i studied the car and would like to have some questions answered if you please

1.The new Evo 2 has the 2mm ( 384 Belt ) will that aid in my sort of track as i noticed that the rear wheel spin more than the fronts since of the ratio but couldn't figure out if it was the belt doing this or its normal in touring cars?

2. Shocks: I surely need to run a softer setup due to the bumby condition, would you recommend for an allround softer spring setup or would you suggest going softer but with a softer fron in order to get more steering?

3. Shock Oil: if i will be running softer springs do you suggest going for lower oil value like 30 / 35

4. Camber: At the moment i don't own a tire truer so we have to runin the tyres in order to ger them trued well . I am running 1 degree in front and 2.5 in the rear. after some driving i was noticing that the outer wall was wearing more the the inner in all four wheels, does that mean i need mor camber?

5. Caster: Would you recommend any other setting for my type of track?

Thats all for now, if i remeber anything else i will post later on.

Thanks very much

I)arkness

iTrader: (7)

im looking forward to hearing what people say speed6, as my track is exactly the same.

also id like to add to your question list, why does everyone want to run a harder rear and softer front. wouldn't that cause some serious oversteer??

el salvador

iTrader: (7)

[QUOTE=I)arkness;6275095 why does everyone want to run a harder rear and softer front. wouldn't that cause some serious oversteer??[/QUOTE]

Mostly because the rear tires wear much faster than the fronts, the 2mm dia split will retain its relationship longer therefore making the car more consistant. You can always dialout too much steering. This is more of an issue for long Mains

elche_83

iTrader: (5)

I)arkness are you talking about lilydale? i found running softer tyres in the front gives me more options during a race and i like lots of steering but for some reason im using 43 rears 40 fronts and it feels good where before 40s all around worked well now not so good and 37s made the car step out i running near stock set up also

I)arkness

iTrader: (7)

no, i wasnt talking about lilydale, but just in general. ive spoken to a few guys and they mentioned running a harder rear. also having a 2mm split are you guys running the 24T pulley rather the 23 on the long belt?

elche_83

iTrader: (5)

im running a 2mm split with the standard pulley and belt but im keen to try the different belt and pulley

speed6

BUMB

Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

1, normal for split
2, softer will generate more roll which will generate traction, you can stand the rears up to make them slightly stiffer. roll center is more important, move the rear lower pins down for more bite and the front uppers down for more bite.
3, I use 500 or 600cst only, cold, dusty, double section on the straight, whatever
4, you need more camber, i true my tires with 1 degree negative to start and allow them to wear that way, each tire has different settings but i am in the 2 degree front area and 3.5+ in the rear. try to get the tires cut with a 2mm split, it's important not to run them from the box.
5, caster all the way forward will give you the best turn-in (shims in back) so that should be the best for a tight track.

jiggamacdaddy

What are the part numbers to run dog bones in the rear of the car? I seem to have some longer cvd's with a spacer on the outside of the axle before the wheels hex and it is making the rear of the car break loose....any suggestions.

RevMaxx

got a good bargain with an rrr evo and got it running in the track. handling was good and car was very stable and predictable on set-up changes.

i have 2 major problems with the car:

1. stripped spur gear (1st) . in two weeks, i've stripped 4 spurs. engine is not moving. if i let the car just roll on the track, no stripping.. if i push the car in aggressive mode, then it strips. what's the secret on the mesh? I've never had stripping problem with my 720 in 2 years of use.
i'm using 16T steel 1st gear pinion, 23T aluminum 2nd gear pinion
61T 1st gear spur/55 2nd gear spur


2. rear wheel nut comes loose. has anybody experience of rear wheel nut coming loose? yesterday, i lost 3 wheel nuts. had to put thread lock in. am already using the threaded back-face nut.

jiggamacdaddy

try shorter screws on the bottom with a conical washer, it may not appear to be shifting around but the screws are probably touching on the top or bottom giving the feel of being tight. I had this same problem, as for the wheel nuts which are you using? try to use the ones that have a serated back to them so it digs into the plastic.

hope this helps

el salvador

iTrader: (7)

Rear Dogbone VS023

1. Set the gear mesh "Tighter than you'd Think necessary", I set the engine location so that 1st and 2nd pinions have slightly "Firm contact" w/their Spur gears, then run the car (sually on the starter box) breifly, to allow the spurs to sorta breakin, if you will, then check that the car is not bound up, but mesh is still good.

2. Maybe the condition of your Wheel Nuts are questionable? At anyrate, I always use a small drop of Blue Loctite on each axle shaft, especially to prep for a long Main.

HTH