Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

You are correct, evo1 because Ielasi was not on the Kyosho team and 2mm ATS/Twister rear tires with a Capricorn top deck among other things. There is a trend in europe where a lot of drivers are going back to 2mm. I personally prefer them on certain tracks, usually the ones with high grip and high speed. Probably because of less wheel distortion.

RevMaxx

where can you find set-up sheets?

anybody have a good base set-up for fast flowing, med-high traction track... with a 300ft+ back straight

1evo RRR Driver

iTrader: (11)

I agree 200%. I have used 0 offset with a spacer inside the rim and it's just not the same, the evo1 was clearly designed to use the 2mm offset, the rear is always more planted, hopefully someone who helped design the car can read this and tell us why! The offset in the 1st place Hope it wasn't just to sell those expensive ass tires! Lol

Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

I've talked to numerous Kyosho team drivers that strongly believe that the 0 degree rear is a better design overall. Although sales of ATS/Twister 2 degree are still high. I will have to try 0mm and 2mm again the next time I'm at the track back to back on the same wheel design and see if I can figure out the difference using track width and not the 2mm spacer.

Besides marketing of Kyosho's own wheel (which by the way was not in the A at the worlds) the only advantage I can see that I also see in other car designs going into the market is to widen the rear arm length for some geometric benefit. It seems like if they were just going after geometry that it would have been easier to change the rear bulkhead top pieces where the inner camber links mount unless they really need the length. I haven't gotten a set of those new spaced rear hubs yet to measure but they would seem to confirm that by allowing us to screw the pivot balls out even farther making the pivot points even past the evo2's.

MikaR

Interesting discussion on the evo1 and 2 and the 0mm and 2mm offset wheels, enjoyed reading, Thanks

blount

iTrader: (4)

Congrats on the race. I lube mine about once a month with just a drop or two. Been racing with same one for 10 months. Curious, what was the track conditions and set up you used for that race?

1nsane

Thank you.

Bumod track, very fast flowing and wide. 200-225 feet main straight. After main straight there is a narrow 90 degree sweeper with a very narrow racing line. Temps around 95 degrees. Medium traction. Heavy tire wear, especially right rear and front. We do 1 hour A-mains, tire strategy and driving style are extremely important. I needed to adjust my tempo because I did not want to change tires. I could not go %100 all the time to save the tires.

Setup was kinda like box setup. I only changed pinions to 17-22. Started with 2 degrees camber and adjusted it later. Flat front, 15-20 degrees rear roll bar. 62.5mm rears, 59.5mm right front, 60mm left front. 42 shore left front tyre and others 45. Front one-way, 60k rear diff. 2.5 degrees rear toe-in, 1 degree front toe-out. 199mm rear track width, 196mm front. Old design GRP tires ( somewhat soft wheels, flexes a bit ), protoform stratus 3.1 body, murnan m353r engine. My best time is 20.756 seconds, DJ Apolaro and other fast international drivers can do sub 20 seconds laps ( Jilles Groskamp 19.2 seconds with new serpent 733 )

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

ran my rrr evo today. It handled awesome but for some reason I couldnt stop stripping spru gears? I stripped 2 first gears and one second, Any thoughts?

Ivan Dickson

iTrader: (32)

I had similar problems until I started working with my gear mesh problem solve just make sure your gear mesh is correct...

Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

by correct, he means that your gear mesh should be so tight that it sounds like its binding slightly when you spin it by hand. also take 1st spur gear off and be sure that the mesh is the same on the inside 2nd gear and look down from the top to be sure they are square.

my car always has a slight binding sound when the gears are new, they will wear in but they are not actually binding because they spin freely. you will know what I mean when you try it.

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

ok thanks, maybe I did have it a little loose. I set it like I did electric years back with a little bit of play. What is the stock pinions and spurs for the car? meaning teeth size and part number

Ivan Dickson

iTrader: (32)

that is how i use to set my mesh...like it was the same as electric...now i set my mesh the way brian explain it, that works very well... haven't strip a gear since..

Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

I keep tearing this one shock diaphragm and I was looking at the various ones available for replacements. I was using the old style flat black ones, but noticed there are some new "HC" type that bubble out more in black and white.

What shock setup are you guys using? I have seen some people with red shocks from the fw cars, and then there were those old prototype evo2 pictures with straight silver shocks. Are they all just the evolva shock now? With the white diaphragms being heavier/lighter than the blacks?

M.Abramowicz

iTrader: (1)

Just calculate tooth's, must be like this:

1st pinion + 1st spur = 2nd pinion + 2nd spur
16 + 61 = 77 = 21 + 56 = 77

If this is ok, just set axle of engine parallel to axle of gear box and set
small clearance



Hope this help!

m.

Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

bueller? anybody tried any of these?