Kyosho V-ONE RRR EVO 2
05-07-2009, 02:40 PM
#1081
Tech Rookie
I installed an aluminum bar (manufactured by myself) instead of the plastic one that joins the rear bulkhead to the radio tray over the clutch and I had never had any spurs damaged since 2005. I run almost once a month in a dirty or cleaned surfaces including national events.
05-10-2009, 05:45 PM
#1082
????
Hi, I just have changed my cars for a new v-one rrr wc.
I have read some issues about the clutch
Will be really necessary spend 100$ more in a sirio clutch? or the stock will work as well?
Do you have some tips?
Thanks in advance
I have read some issues about the clutch
Will be really necessary spend 100$ more in a sirio clutch? or the stock will work as well?
Do you have some tips?
Thanks in advance
05-11-2009, 06:01 AM
#1084
Thanks.
I Have a Novarrosi 123.
I Have a Novarrosi 123.
05-11-2009, 10:21 AM
#1085
Im looking for some good aluminum pignon. What brands are decent? I used the Kyosho in past and they wear so fast so I went to steel. Yet I want to go with aluminum to save weight
thanks
thanks
05-11-2009, 10:24 AM
#1086
I am assuming from your answer that you have a Novarossi Plus 12-3?
You should be good with the stock clutch. Worst case is you may want to lighten you flyweights. You can experiment with the weights a bit. They are pretty inexpensive if you screw them up. For that engine I would start with all the stock clutch parts (stock spring and grey clutch shoe). Compress your spring until about 1.3mm of thread shows. Set your gap to .4mm. I would start with the endplay at just enough to make sure nothing binds. Make sure your engine is properly tuned and start with that setup. If you need more snap, you can try adding .1mm endplay. You can also try lightening the flyweights. You can of course tighten the spring some more but I wouldn't go past 1.7mm or you may start to run into coil bind.
You should be good with the stock clutch. Worst case is you may want to lighten you flyweights. You can experiment with the weights a bit. They are pretty inexpensive if you screw them up. For that engine I would start with all the stock clutch parts (stock spring and grey clutch shoe). Compress your spring until about 1.3mm of thread shows. Set your gap to .4mm. I would start with the endplay at just enough to make sure nothing binds. Make sure your engine is properly tuned and start with that setup. If you need more snap, you can try adding .1mm endplay. You can also try lightening the flyweights. You can of course tighten the spring some more but I wouldn't go past 1.7mm or you may start to run into coil bind.
05-11-2009, 10:41 PM
#1088
The front/rear housing comes together in a set.
They use the same bevel gears, but use different outdrives (VZ218 are the outdrives used for the front Diff)
You also need to use the older servo ackerman arms (they come standard in the EVO2 kit)
Also, you need to use ball ends on the ackerman to prevent it rubbing with the diff.
To be honest, it took some time for me to get the diff into my EVO2, and working fine.
I only got to test it once at Moorebank with 100k oil, but I must say the car did feel much easier to drive, and I am sure with a few minor tweaks and an adjustment to my driving style (going from solid to diff) the car would be quicker.
Check this topic a few pages back, someone posted the parts required.
05-11-2009, 11:14 PM
#1089
Everything Novarossi said is correct. To add a bit more to it though. The front diff housing probably came with your kit as well. Both halves come in the Diff pulley set (part number VZ 204) It uses the same bevel gears, diff gears, gaskets, pins etc as the rear diff. Only difference between the front and rear diff is the housing, and the outdrives. Also, the front diff uses the same screw-on pulley that would go onto a one-way or a spool. Just make sure you don't use both sides of the pulley or the whole thing will be too wide to fit into the bulkheads. Also as Novarossi said, use the older ackerman plates or you will have issues with the diff and ackerman plate rubbing on each other.
05-12-2009, 08:07 PM
#1091
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Was in Toledo, OH now Battle Ground, WA
Posts: 833
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
I'm running the 24 tooth pulley and from what I can tell (which may be incorrect so others chime in) there is less steering middle-out but more going in. I have also been told it should be easier on tires, but I haven't noticed it. Last year I ran a little faster lap times with the 24, but I am hoping when I can start racing again I will try running back-to-back and see. Just my $.02
05-12-2009, 09:09 PM
#1092
05-13-2009, 05:59 AM
#1093
Well I've tried both 24t pulley with 1mm split and 23t pulley 2mm split and the car was faster with 23t pulley 2mm split and 384 middle belt....you also have to take into consideration what middle belt your using 384 or 387 so you might want to test it out for yourself to see what is faster to you.
I've only ran this set-up once. It was with the 384 belt in toledo. I ran it with the tire having a 2mm split. After 30 min main the tires came off the track with a 1mm split. I will test this weekend at 301 and see how the handles and lap times.
are u running a solid or diff because tire wear is different when u run a solid I notice with a diff tire wear is about even after about 30min of running..